Ignoring all other usual modifications, the only thing I'm interested in here is the tuning side of things. I'm looking for a way to get a better tune into our family's 3 stock Ecotecs.
If your Ecotec has been tuned, could you post up the following:
- Tune details (where from)
- Price
- Did you notice a fuel saving?? (yes/no)
As I said, only interested in near stock NA Ecotecs, don't care about speed/power/shift points etc, just looking for fuel efficiency as our family does sh!tloads of country kms.
Cheers
Sam
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I have had my VX tuned but my goal was power, so it didn't really save any fuel at all. If you are interesed in fuel saving you could try a CAI, extractors and exhuast combo, might help out a little bit.
If you really want to save fuel you can change the diif ratio from your 3.08:1 stock to something like the VZ which has 2.86:1 or something like that. Lowering (or is it making it higher???) your diff ratio will really save you fuel on highway travel but can lead to you using a bit more around the city.
Of course keep in mind that changing your diff ratio will likely cost you up to a grand. So you will need to do a lot of driving to make it a worthwhile venture.
But going back to your original question, I don't think a tune could really do much to a totally stock engine. You might save a few percent in fuel usage but no really that much at all.
Of course anyone please correct me if I am wrong.
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Knew all that already, been down the fuel efficiency mods road with my V6 and my 5L. Thanks thoughwill help other people. The purpose of this thread was to find out if there's a greenfoam for Ecotecs, so to speak. So far the best I've heard is a $250 outlay to Dr Bob. As mentioned I'm asking because my mum, dad and sister all have dead stock Ecotecs and zero interest in modifying cars. No chance of CAI or exhaust mods. Greenfoam has managed to get both my own cars tuned and running brilliantly for very little money, so I was wondering if someone did Ecotecs too. Shame.
Sam
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
My car is fairly heavily modified tho, but il give you an idea.
Kalmaker realtime dyno tune, Awesome Automotive (Adelaide)
Initial tune was $400 (incl purchase of ecu crack code)
Every 'tidy up' tune afterwards was $100 odd.
In a comparison of stock & tuned versus modified & tuned... my fuel economy has improved about 2L/100km, which is fantasic considering how much power it now makes over stock. i just went for dyno tune cause of the major mods i have done, and he is a highly trusted and respected tuner (here) who gets the results.
Im sure if you get a tune like greenfoams (or something similar) you will see some economy gains. You have to remember, when commodores roll off the production line 'x' ecu gets slapped with 'y' engine. this pairing could go good, or bad! Luck of the draw! Also the factory tunes are ok, but the are just mass production tunes in the end..
definitely worth a try tho! i dont think greenfoams tunes are that expensive?
Hit me up with some reputation points if i've helped you out! (Star in the bottom left!) Cheers!
GT Performance RUF 231- NA 3.8L- 13.30 @ 103 Mph... So far... Cam, compression and revs! MY CAR>> http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...tml#post471410
Daily VR SS: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ite-vr-ss.html
Nah greenfoam doesn't do Ecotecs just yet... and yes his tunes are dirt cheap and very very good.
I'll ignore the possibility of tuning our family Ecotecs just for nowand enjoy my old 3.8and 5L
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
wheres a good place in SE vic to get me Vy ecotec tunned up got an exhaust and getting extractors soon but wanna get an idea of how much and what i can expect..
Sam just readin upon this i know ur not lookin 2 do mods 2 ur family cars as such, u prolly know this already and how stock my car pretty much is lol but seein as they do long country trips which i used 2 do in my VT a CAI and exhaust definatly boosts up the KMs ina tank so mayb in the long run just those small mods could pay 4 themselves may take a while tho lol.
Check out my ride in progress.... 98 VT V6, V8 Supercar kittedDaily toy.... 92 VP Calais 5L
********4 Sale- 2 x 7' Pool Tables********
Check this guy out on ebay, He is very honest and straight.
PERFORMANCE CHIP / MEMCAL Holden V6 VR VS VT 155+ kws - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 10-Aug-08 18:22:06 AEST)
Originally Posted by Yoda
yep all well and good but he sells memcals.. only up to VT series 1. Thanks for the tip though
We are unable to supply memcals for VX onwards including the VU Ute as they use a flash memory and not a memca
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
i would suggest putting up with it or buying an astra!
lol astra. Not my cars, family cars, all are occasionally used for towing. No Astra
Ant, sorry I missed your post before.. I know the exhaust/CAI route is the best way to start but they do take a while to pay for themselves. My VN cat-back from 2005 has only just paid for itself this year, intake and tune should cover their own costs a lot sooner.
When the cars are upgraded (hopefully next couple of years) I'll press the point at the beginning... extractors and a nice quiet 2.5" exhaust is the way to go
Also the VT, VX and VY all came with a stock OTRCAI, surely no benefit to upgrading this? I've heard that K&N filter oil particles can mess with the MAF sensor too..
Sam
Last edited by savage1987; 10-08-2008 at 01:31 AM. Reason: found a mistake :)
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
He does S2 VT's..
But offers now, a ECU chip package for all VX onwards owners.
Have a chat with him, I don't at the moment see it on his page, But i know he was working on doing it, And I'm sure he did.
Many VX-VY owners hate the fact they can't simple chip there cars, So made a backwards set-up for them.
Originally Posted by Yoda
I thought VT s2 was when they moved away from memcals.. maybe I heard wrong
If $140 a car is our best option, i'll run it past people but I won't recommend it too forcefully as if it didn't make at least a 50km per tank difference I'd look like a twit. I will let them know the price though.
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
I got given one of these memcals
VS V6 Commodore Memcal Chip - eBay Mod Chips, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 10-Aug-08 22:40:55 AEST)
It's not a very agressive tune compared to the beta test VS one I made but I can do a VT version of that no problem, I could be wrong but I'd expect everyone with VS-VT tunes on ebay is selling the exact same tune, it doesn't take them long to order one and copy it. (The first VN one I ever sold was to one of the guys on ebay). You should be able to do VX/VYs too? I imagine they are the same thing but flash ram and soldered in. I reckon if I got my hands on a VX ecu I could unsolder it, reflash it and poke it in a socket. You know I don't really like to make tunes for V6's especailly the tank versions. But anythings possible non the less. I'm happy to break the ground so you guys can do it yourself for cheap, there's still alot of 5 litres out there that I'm a bit busy with at the moment
P.S this guy sells them no change over for a decent price
Holden Commodore VT A V6 custom performance chip - eBay Engine Modifications, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 16-Aug-08 10:56:26 AEST)
I think VX changed?, But, There might be some late models with newer ECU's also.
On powerchips webpage, The VX, You need to remove the ECU and ship it off to them.
His very conservative with his estimates, And he doesn't like to over tune them also.. So he might not be over the top shooting for performance.If $140 a car is our best option, i'll run it past people but I won't recommend it too forcefully as if it didn't make at least a 50km per tank difference I'd look like a twit. I will let them know the price though.
I once spoke to him about the VP, Getting a chip for that, After a few emails back and forwards, He talked me out of doing it, I was of the belief, The VP needed a good tune as it was a little slack on start up's, And down low take off's..
He suggested i check to see if i had any air leaks, As this is what it sounded like, He told me, I can sell you a chip, But it sounds like you have a leak somewhere, Get that checked out and them come see me again when all is good.
I appreciated that honesty.
Turns out the intake manifold had done a gasket.
Originally Posted by Yoda
vx started using the ipcm6f pcm, the f designating flash programmed
no big deal to reflash them, the gains in performance arent huge but economy is pretty good
My VN sure turned out alright!!
Anyone who dyno tunes a near stock V6 is kidding themselves.
Off topic, but what are the signs of manifold gasket failure? 2 of our Ecotecs need them done, and my 5L is gone I think. Don't know for sure though because I don't know what to look for! VN hasn't had one in 20 years so that's probably dead as well lol
That's all I'm looking for, not chasing power from the family hack V6s lol
Yeah but if you noticed his motor is "fairly heavily modified". Off-the-shelf tunes are generally no good for heavily modified motors, that's when dyno tuning is appropriate.
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
$400 wouldn't even pay for dyno time for a comprehensive tune. Maybe at mates rates it would but not for a walk up deal
Yep, mates rates it might though like you said. Dyno tuning stock cars is overrated![]()
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
With mine, I was having issues with starting at first, Somedays it would start then chug chug chug and stall and spit, Restart perfect..
Take off's have been weak, It's like it's flooded with full throttle..
But the only way i found out in the end, Was i took it to my mechanic, And he hoisted it, And found some leaking oil from the back leaking down the motor. He said you can see oil around the bottom of the intake, Which i never paid much attension to., Look you can see it comming from the intake here, Straight down. Ohh i go
A friend of ours had a noisy motor, They also done a gasket in the intake, When they got there car back, Amazingly much quieter smoother running engine.
I think it only hurts idle, And down low, Becaue when normal driving it's fine.
Originally Posted by Yoda
OK mate, thanks for that
I'll do my 2 and my parents' ones when I have a spare weekend.
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
Much cheaper to do yourself, Good idea, It's something like, $250 from a mechanic.
Originally Posted by Yoda
Hi Guys
Just a little truth about the v6 ecotec 152 k/w engine. I personally have had four different vehicle with the same engine. If you want power the scarafic is using more fuel, this is usually the rule of thumb. However, there are different ways to increase your power and fuel economy at the same time, but you have to drive the car in economy mode. The problems is that when a vehicle has more power, you use more power. 60% of bad fuel enconomy is the way you take off at a set of traffic light. Idealy if you have cruise control always use it on hwys from 100 kph upwards.
The ecotec likes driving between 100 - 110 kph, when you go past this the engine starts to use more fuel. I am a 60 year old car enthusiest and I can still drive with the best. Over the years I have found that whatever car you drive always take notice of the speedo. The crusing speed for that vehicle is when the speedo hand is verticle. (Good fuel enconomy) (That's straight up and down) On some cars the needle could be sitting on 95 -100, 100 - 110 or 110 - 130 and so on. Most modern cars is 110kph
The name of the game in traffic is try not to to a completly stop, slow down enough to kep the car rolling when the lights turn green. Of course this depends who or whats behind you.
If you want to increase power smoothness and fuel enconomy. Let's start with engine oil, I personally drive about 600 kilometres per week, and I change my oil every 7-8000 kilometers. If you get it serviced you wont be able to afford this. The next thing is the type of oil you use, you could change over to a fully Synthetic, but the down side of this is the cost ($70 per 5 litres) VY V6 have a bigger sump and use 6.5 littles, so as you can see thats a lot of money. The other side is that once you use Synthetic oil you can't go back to normal mineral oil. The better quality oil allows you to run slightly a little thinner on the oil which decreases fictions. Never compremise on the quality of oil. (No more 6 litres for $19.95 on special) You only get what you pay for. Don't get me wrong, if that's all you can afford, it has to be better that none at all. Change the oil filter every second change)
Never flush your engine with a high detergent or run GTX High Detergent oil in high kilometer engines, unless you have run them from new. I have seen people buy a good engine vehicle, they then flush the engine that remove all the slug and build up in the engine. Yes! I know thats a good thing, but at what price? The next thing you could see is that the exhaust is blowing white smoke . The engine rings are now so clean from using a high detergent oil cleaner that oil now get past them ,and thus your engine is now buring oil.
Fuel, I am not an expert, but I do know the difference between enthonal blended fuel and its tests results. I understand that it's cheaper, but this is really faulse enconomy. You actually get less kilometres per litre than a higher octan fuel. Yopu will get the best results on highway driving using 98% Octan fuel. But remeber it thats a few tank of this high octn fuel to allow the onbopard engine managment system to reprogram it's self. I prefere to use the 91 % octan fuel only because I still want more power, but the management won't allow me to run 98% at a cost of an extra 20 cents a litre. Even though I can prove that I get better fuel economy. They call this (Company Policy) Oh yes! If you buy your fuel from Calex or shell you can be asured that it'susually fresh. I have been told that Caltex and Shell give the best power and F/C. (I would put this down to how fresh it is) Whatch your 711 stores, I have seen them been filled by Caltex tankers.) I guess they have to buy their fuel from somewhere. Keep away from the no name brands whould be my advise. It's not that the little guy deserves your business, its how old are the tanks in the grond, and how much water condesation is in the fuel, and most how old is the fuel. If you use the normal octan fuel and place it in a 4.5 litre tin and leave it in the sun, that fuel can go stail within 5 days. It's like not starting your lawn mower afer non usage for winter, they usually dont start, and that because the fuel has gone stale. OIf you smell it, it 's a faul smell.
The next thing is change your leads to 9mm ($95 per set) and replace the spark plugs to performance ($25 each) Replace air filter with the washable type (Allow good airflow) $110 each. Increase the air induction with cooler air from the front of the vehicle. Purchase a heat sheild from V6 Performance (WA) $75 each. (This cover the header/extracter underneath the air flow into the throttle body (Engine)The whole idea is to get your engine to opperate cooler, so what ever you do to reduce heat aways from you engine intake, better the power and better fuel enconomy. (It's like driving at night commpared to day) the only difference is at night the air is cooler and dencer.
CAUTION, be carefuel if you change to a lower thermostat, this can't really be below 10 degreese. V6 Performance have them for about $38. If you run the engine too cold the engine management system will keep the engine running richer trying to bring it up to it's operating tempterature. (Just like on a little choke)
I too was a little confused about how diffs really work, I got onto a car wrecker specialising in holden diffs. Everyone was about $1000 and this guy was about $700, if you want one just contact me and I can ask him what ratio he has available.
My VY V6 Auto was running a 3.08, and I wanted better take off at the lights, so I opt for the manual LSD 3.45 diff. By the was it really make all that difference, however you will need to go to Holden and get the PPS (Pulse Per Second) changed in your speedo computor with a Tech 2. Holden charge about $50 - $60 to recalabrate. Everyone told me that my fuel enconomy would drop with a higher ratio diff, except one person and they were right. In theory you might beleive this, however when using this higher ration actually works in the opposite to an degree. So long as you don't increase your r.v.m more that say 1500. The reason why this is so is because you don't need as much power = fuel to take off. The car only needs a little throttle, not flat to the floor. When in metro traffic you are always stopping and stating. Thus when you use less fuel for doing this, better the F/ECON
The other thing is the tyre presure, I run 235 x 30 x 19" low profile tyres and the best performance to suit these wheels and tyres is 40 psi (COLD) So if you are running standard wheels, always run 3-5psi above the standard recommendation. If you run to high a presure it will wear out the centre of your tyres, and the ride is a little harder. Althoung if you are under pressure your tyres will become a drag and wear shoulders off your tyres. Rub your hand over the top of your tyres, and if you feel a slight ridge you wheel alignment may be out so get it checked out. With Commodore's you will need to get your front and rear wheels aligned at the same time. In conclussion, all these small points will make a difference to fuel economy, power and handling.
cheers
Mako