| VT - VX Holden Commodore (1997 - 2002) Talk about anything relating to the VT - VX Holden Commodore. |
16-08-2008, 09:37 AM
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Ride: '97 VT ecotec
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 37
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Replacing rotors
Hey guys , just wondering if anyone can give me quick over veiw of replacing my rotors on my 97 VT exec . cheers .
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16-08-2008, 09:49 AM
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Donating Member
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Ride: 05 VZ Wagon & 97 VT Sedan
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Perth, WA
Posts: 310
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As in what to do? or what to them change to?
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Christie 2005 VZ Wagon
Craig 1997 VT Sedan |
16-08-2008, 10:10 AM
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Donating Member
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Ride: WH II Caprice, 5.7
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Eschol Park, Sydney
Posts: 2,242
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Remove the wheel, remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on, slide rotor off, put new one on, replace caliper, put wheel back on. You will probably need to push the pistons in the caliper in a bit so it will go over the new rotor. Release the handbrake when doing the rear rotors.
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16-08-2008, 10:21 AM
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BURTON
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Ride: VK SL
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sale, Vic
Posts: 1,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accentstencil
Remove the wheel, remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on, slide rotor off, put new one on, replace caliper, put wheel back on. You will probably need to push the pistons in the caliper in a bit so it will go over the new rotor. Release the handbrake when doing the rear rotors.
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Spot on, ill add if you can fit your caliper back on with out depressing the caliper then its probly time for new pads aswell. Also I like to torque the wheel nuts up so I know the rotor is sitting dead flat and how it should be.
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16-08-2008, 08:08 PM
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Ride: '97 VT ecotec
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 37
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cheers fellas . just waiting for my slotted and drilled rotars , 400 bucks full set + pads brand new ! Thanks e-bay  !
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16-08-2008, 09:31 PM
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Ride: VT V8 Calais
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 160
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Careful of those drilled rotors on the street, prone too cracking on a road car
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50LTRv8
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16-08-2008, 09:41 PM
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Donating Member
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Ride: 05 VZ Wagon & 97 VT Sedan
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Perth, WA
Posts: 310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 50LTRv8
Careful of those drilled rotors on the street, prone too cracking on a road car
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First time I have heard that one.
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Christie 2005 VZ Wagon
Craig 1997 VT Sedan
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16-08-2008, 10:11 PM
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Ride: MY08 Outlander XLS
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bunbury, WA
Posts: 4,246
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They are prone to cracking on a race car because of the extreme heat. I have heard of them cracking on street cars but only because of really really heavy braking all the time.
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It is better to be silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and prove it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyboyDS
I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.
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Wholesaler of exhaust, suspension and brakes.
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17-08-2008, 12:49 AM
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MR Helpful
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Ride: Stockish VX Berlina
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: QLD
Posts: 340
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just did my front ones an hour ago, if you have trouble pulling the rotor off, there are 3 bolt holes in the middle, screw in some bolts to push it away from the hub.
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17-08-2008, 11:04 AM
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Ride: '97 VT ecotec
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 37
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cracking due to heat ? i thought that was the hole point of the slotting and drilling was so they ran cooler ? i can understand it on a race car but a street car ? WTF . cheres OLS108 ill keep that in mind .
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21-08-2008, 01:34 AM
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Ride: N/A
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 47
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there not as strong coz of the holes, they split or crack from hole to hole, seen it a few times
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21-08-2008, 08:29 AM
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Ride: '97 VT ecotec
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 37
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**** i wish i had knowen th at before ! Im a pritty tame driver so i think ill be ok , ill just have to keep an eye on it . but for the money i paid for them i couldnt even pick up a full set of standard rotars for that !
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21-08-2008, 08:57 AM
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Ride: MY08 Outlander XLS
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bunbury, WA
Posts: 4,246
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Brakes need heat to work. The slots are their primarily to dissipate gas, so you don't get brake fade. The holes do the heat transfer as more metal is exposed to the surrounding air. But because the heat tends to concentrate around the sharp edges of the holes they will crack. And the fact that it is the weakest point. It takes a fair bit of hard braking to crack them though.
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It is better to be silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and prove it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyboyDS
I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.
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Wholesaler of exhaust, suspension and brakes.
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22-09-2008, 04:46 PM
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Ride: VT Executive S1
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Victoria
Posts: 248
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My car is shuddering/shaking when i brake, this is caused by warped routers yer?
Im thinking of ordering in some front slotted rotars and some pads, is it worth doing the rear yet?
Btw when i am replacing them, do i need to replace any bearings or anything?
cheers
(sorry for the hijack)
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