Hey guys , just wondering if anyone can give me quick over veiw of replacing my rotors on my 97 VT exec . cheers .
Remove the wheel, remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on, slide rotor off, put new one on, replace caliper, put wheel back on. You will probably need to push the pistons in the caliper in a bit so it will go over the new rotor. Release the handbrake when doing the rear rotors.
MY RIDE
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.
cheers fellas . just waiting for my slotted and drilled rotars , 400 bucks full set + pads brand new ! Thanks e-bay!
Careful of those drilled rotors on the street, prone too cracking on a road car
50LTRv8
They are prone to cracking on a race car because of the extreme heat. I have heard of them cracking on street cars but only because of really really heavy braking all the time.
just did my front ones an hour ago, if you have trouble pulling the rotor off, there are 3 bolt holes in the middle, screw in some bolts to push it away from the hub.
cracking due to heat ? i thought that was the hole point of the slotting and drilling was so they ran cooler ? i can understand it on a race car but a street car ? WTF . cheres OLS108 ill keep that in mind .
there not as strong coz of the holes, they split or crack from hole to hole, seen it a few times
**** i wish i had knowen th at before ! Im a pritty tame driver so i think ill be ok , ill just have to keep an eye on it . but for the money i paid for them i couldnt even pick up a full set of standard rotars for that !
Brakes need heat to work. The slots are their primarily to dissipate gas, so you don't get brake fade. The holes do the heat transfer as more metal is exposed to the surrounding air. But because the heat tends to concentrate around the sharp edges of the holes they will crack. And the fact that it is the weakest point. It takes a fair bit of hard braking to crack them though.
My car is shuddering/shaking when i brake, this is caused by warped routers yer?
Im thinking of ordering in some front slotted rotars and some pads, is it worth doing the rear yet?
Btw when i am replacing them, do i need to replace any bearings or anything?
cheers
(sorry for the hijack)
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Only the front rotors have the screw holes to get them off, the rears don't but are easy as long as you ease the handbrake screw wheel. I just did mine, replaced with slotted. The 2 small bolts that hold the main caliper to the mounting bracket are the correct size for the rotor removal holes, 9/16 if I remember correctly.