I have a VX with a ecotec (auto) and i installed a twin throttle body plenum.
Now the car idles really high and only gets higher as the car gets hotter.
Also (sometimes) when driving its fine until it gets hot, then it has trouble changing gears, it trys to change gears and then revs about 1000rpm (feels like its in neutral during this reving) by it self before it is able to change gears.
Also (sometimes) when it gets hot (normal running temperature) and you put your foot down it feels as though it is backfiring and doesn't go anywhere.
VX Executive S2
VZ monaro front end, GTO rear lights, VX SS rear bar & side skirts, 18" deep dish Apec rims, 18% tint, crystal side indicators
SUSPENSION: D2 damper and height adjustable coil overs, RDA drilled and slotted gold rotors, Green stuff brake pads, Whiteline strut brace
ENGINE: Port & polish heads, FIT 1.9 rockers, polished twin TB plenum, port & polish 71mm AFM, Pro racing series 10mm top gun ignition leads, FIT laser cut heat shields, lukey cat back, manifold heat insulator
have you checked for leaks ,are you running twin iac , has your tps been set ,the tps will effect your shift, if it has a vac leak it will run lean and hotter
I suspected a vac leak as well and have replaced all the gaskets, except for the plenum hat o-ring (being replaced on monday)
it has a single iac, what do you mean by "has your tps been set"? how do you set it?
The car also has not been tuned yet (waiting to fix all these problems first), but it is running on a Chiptorque ECU (programed for my mods)
VX Executive S2
VZ monaro front end, GTO rear lights, VX SS rear bar & side skirts, 18" deep dish Apec rims, 18% tint, crystal side indicators
SUSPENSION: D2 damper and height adjustable coil overs, RDA drilled and slotted gold rotors, Green stuff brake pads, Whiteline strut brace
ENGINE: Port & polish heads, FIT 1.9 rockers, polished twin TB plenum, port & polish 71mm AFM, Pro racing series 10mm top gun ignition leads, FIT laser cut heat shields, lukey cat back, manifold heat insulator
a tps has a closed and open loop if it's not set at a close loop it will tell the ecu that you have apply the pedal so when you do it will shift at what it thinks is the right time , a carman scan tool will help with the setup
As far as i know this is a problem with twin throttle bodys and the auto boxs. You need a proper tune to run them. See Classified Calais he may be able to help as he has just started running them on his vs ecotec.
My ears were burning.
When i installed the TTB's my idle was high, after holding the revs above 3000rpm for about 30secs the idle slowly dropped to about 2000rpm, this was still too high so i took the TTB's off so i could inspect them for vac leaks as well as waiting for the TTB tune to arrive. Dr. Bob does these tunes for about $250.
I did have a small leak which i hope to fix in the next day or 2 and then put them back on for a test run.
The best way to test for vac leaks is to have the car running and to sray a little rp7/wd40 or similar around the plenum, any change in revs will be caused by the vac leak.
Guys,
I just had a Larger Throttle Body Installed on my Ecotec V6 and it Ideling High
In park and Neutral it jumps to about 2000rpm and i drive it is sits at about 1850
I have got it booked into a Performace Specialsit tomorrow and i want to know what to tell him to look for is a VAC leak the most likely Problem or will i have to pay for the ECU to be Remapped?
hey i am new to this fourm but did you end up getting it to idle fine because i just installed a ttb to my vt v6 5 speed and i blocked the 2nd tb idle hole off with a grub srew and i am still having problems with it idling about 2000+ rpm i have 2x vaccum hoses on the tb and 2x oil breather hoses on it
whats the point of having ttb's on an ecotec? =S
any gains?
This is a TPS issue. Did you change it yourself? There was a little plastic sleeze that on the TPS?
Refer to the diagram in this post, the item is noted as "ADAPTER".
Documentation/Literature
If this is not installed correctly or damaged, this will cause the car to idle high. Had the same issue when I swapped out my stock TB for a 69mm one.
See above. do NOT block off any holes on the TB as they are all there for a reason.
Throttle response would be the only gain. You wouldn't see much if anything on a dyno in terms of torque or power.
THe ecotec only sucks so much air and with a twin manifold you are giving it more tb flow diameter than an LS1. Pointless unless you are forcing down it's throat aka FI.
It's costly and problematic to get a TTB setup working well on a n/a ecotec as it required a minimum of a tune to get it running right and the gain from a single TB and tune and a TTB and tune would probably be the same as it's the TUNE that would bring gains to the table.
*shrugs*
Each to their own I guess.
But yeah, gains vs cost. Not logical mod really unless as I said, there is FI involved.
What's even funnier is that in some cases I have seen a setup where the piping form the TTB setup merge down the line into a single pipe just before the filter. Which completely defeats the purpose really.
hahahaha thats so funny! it gets alot more air in there! =/
Yeah pretty much. In this case the merged pipe seems to have an increased diameter to the 2 secondary pipes so in theory this should be able to sustain increased flow.
Can't find the image I'm after at the moment, but the specific case I was referencing was when the merged pipe was the same diameter as the secondary pipes. Fail.
But anyway, back onto the topic of rpm idle issues.
TPS sensor for sure...
In a TTB configuration, the ECU is getting a message from the TPS that the butterfly is open X many degree's which will allow Y volume of air through.
But, in actual fact, there is Y x 2 volume of air getting through as there are 2 TB's each allowing Y volume of air though.
Thus why a custom tune would be required for a TTB setup to work properly.
In the case of the member who swapped TB's to bigger ones and are not having rpm issues, it will be once again TPS related most probably and I bet my money on the little adapter missing or being damaged.
Cheers.
you need to get a tune and the shift points changed/remapped,i got quoted $850. i went down this path with a bigger tb for my old crapatec, not worth the 3-6kw's stock tb is fine until you get a big turbo or supercharger.
how much are you guys paying for these twin throttle setups??
to much obviously
I don't see how TTB's are even going to help an ecotec when FI is involved. You can force air through practically anything. LS1 guys don't have any problem doing 1200HP+ with a standard 75mm throttle body when boosted...
you need to wind the throttle stop screws out with 2 TB's at the normal cracked open position will let in twice the air and make it idle high
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
i have taken the srews out and put another spring on it and it still does it so i just took it off and put the ported with plenum spacer manifold back on and seems to be fine but the throttle is sticking
when i drive it i will have to put my foot on the back until i get down under 2000rpm and then it will idle fine