Changing leads and spark plugs

[gogoboygareth]

Changing the spark plus sounds like an easy job.... but what about changing the leads too? Is that something that anyone can do at home?

(I have a VXII V6)

[TUF UTE]

you can but the only confusing bit is making sure u dont mix leads up, its generally pretty easy if ur switched on and only do 1 lead at a time. its just common sense

[gogoboygareth]

Do you know if there are any guides etc on here? Like what tools are needed... I bought a set of spark plugs, so I'm thinking of getting a new set of leads and changing them all over at the same time.

[Ozzie]

just unplug one lead at a time and pull it out.
then slide the new ones one at a time back under the alternator.
when there all changed then slide the wire protector back over the leads and under the alternator.

[TUF UTE]

change the spark plugs one at a time with a spark plug socket, and put the lead back on after u do it.. change all the plugs. then do the leads one at a time.... start with shortest leads and work your way to the longest lead.

[gogoboygareth]

Help!!!

I was curious, so I just unplugged the leads at the coil pack, one by one - I really didn't know what I was doing. That was easy enough!

Now, for the problem - lead #2 is *stuffed*. There's green corrosion (like when an AA battery corrodes).

The connector on the coil pack itself is also green... (all the other leads & connectors look brand new though).

Now, the question - is it just the lead, and I just need to clean the coil pack connector, or is that coil pack also stuffed and needs to be replaced too? (i.e. the #2 & #5 coil pack).

[TUF UTE]

gahhh didnt i just say undo it 1 at a time.

[Ozzie]

Help!!!

I was curious, so I just unplugged the leads at the coil pack, one by one - I really didn't know what I was doing. That was easy enough!

Now, for the problem - lead #2 is *stuffed*. There's green corrosion (like when an AA battery corrodes).

The connector on the coil pack itself is also green... (all the other leads & connectors look brand new though).

Now, the question - is it just the lead, and I just need to clean the coil pack connector, or is that coil pack also stuffed and needs to be replaced too? (i.e. the #2 & #5 coil pack).

the coil pack should be sealed and will only need cleaning. sounds like s**t leads to me

[gogoboygareth]

gahhh didnt i just say undo it 1 at a time.

LOL sorry - I should have said - I did it one at a time.

i.e. I unplugged one, had a look at the connector, then put it back on.

I basically just wanted to see how easy they were to pull off, and then after doing one, I thought I'd just do them all (one at a time), to inspect the connectors.

[gogoboygareth]

Photo attached.

[TUF UTE]

its corrosion, clean it off with bicarb soda and water or and then replace your leads mate ... 1 at a time !! lol

[gogoboygareth]

Hahaha thanks for that - I'll clean it up and pick up some new leads tomorrow - then definitely replace them one at a time (no way I want to screw that one up).

[gogoboygareth]

Next question....

How do you remove the lead at the spark plug end? There is a metal cylinder which appears to surround the spark plug...

I assume I just pull the lead off, but how do I remove the metal cylinder? Does it just pull off? I don't want to touch it without asking here first.

[TUF UTE]

good thinking mate, it just slides up, if u have new leads just grab the plug and yank on it , dont do that with the new leads though lol

[badaz]

If I rember correct the metal part is part of the lead. Yes they just come off. My best advice is change them when your engine is cold. Take care when tightening your spark plugs as they will break if you put to much presure on them.

[gogoboygareth]

Thanks for all your help guys - I will do it after work tomorrow night (once the engine cools down).

My engine kept conking out the other day, well - I guess this is why! I really should get a gregorys manual or something and learn to give it a full service.

[BOGANV8]

When pulling the leads of the best advice i can give is give them a little twist first clockwise-anticlockwise to free up the rubber as the heat has made them grip to the plug.

It helps everytime i do them at work.. nothing worse than doing a set off plugs only to find out you get to the last one and BAM the lead end stays on the plug NEW SET OF LEADS........

Also nothing wrong with putting a little squirt of WD-40 or similiar under the boots to stop future green stuff build up

[gogoboygareth]

Hahaha well in this case, I don't care if I wreck the leads. But if I'm able to do this, from now on I'll be changing the sparks myself.

For WD-40... so I just spray a bit into the each end of the lead (both ends), or just on the metal tips of the coil packs?

[WAGON MAN]

For WD-40... so I just spray a bit into the each end of the lead (both ends), or just on the metal tips of the coil packs?

Spray the WD-40 on both ends of the leads gareth.

[gogoboygareth]

Okay my next question - what leads should I be buying?

I went to my local supercheap, hoping to pick up the standard Bosch "super sport" or whatever they're called.... but they didn't have any for the late model commodores. They only had the $104 blue Bosch ones, which would be overkill.

Don't they sell the standard bosch ones anymore?

I then went to repco (a few stores down the same road), and they only sold "Champion" and "Top Gun", both for around $90 (I'd rather get the blue bosch ones).

Any ideas?

[TUF UTE]

go top gun buddy, EXCELLENT leads

[WAGON MAN]

Just go to Holden and purchase some genuine leads.

They are also individually numbered.

[WAGON MAN]

Here you go Gareth

V6 commodore spark plugs and leads

[gogoboygareth]

Thanks!!!

I have looked at the prices for all the different leads now, and as it turns out, the genuine GMH ones from my local Holden dealer were $56.... *much* cheaper than any other brands at the auto stores! My current genuine leads lasted 190,000km's.. which is a pretty good run I think.

[WAGON MAN]

RRP for genuine spark plugs are around $25.....