jammed in spark plugs....

[Ozzie]

Originally Posted by pablo

greenac, I have a tube of 'kopr-cote', I have had for years, made by AMPOL. It is good for over 800 deg,C. Way over the engine temp. Used it on manifold studs, nuts and exhaust joins and clamps, as well as spark plugs in iron and aluminium heads, bikes and cars. Never had any problem using it.

Pablo

isnt that just anti-cease? or does it penatrate?

[vxcalais_01]

Originally Posted by Ozzie

isnt that just anti-cease? or does it penatrate?

You can get the Permatex sachets from Supercheap especially for the spark plugs. Just get that. Innox to penetrate....

[Benboy]

Originally Posted by pablo

Yeah fitz_vt, 5 not 7 ! I was never any good at addin' an' subtraction!LOL
You could try a 'rattle gun' to shock it loose?
As I have said before, plugs should ALWAYS have the threads lubricated with anti-sieze grease before they are screwed in. Then tightened to 15-25 nm, if you don,t have a torque wrench, screw them in until the gasket just touches the head, then turn them a further 30deg. NO MORE! ..they DON'T have to be very tight, only enough for the gasket to seal.
All the problems I have had with plugs have apparently been caused be the "mechanic" overtightening them with dry threads. If the head is aluminium, the problem escalates to the bloody thread easily tearing.

Pablo

I don't agree with comment re applying anti-seize to spark plug threads neither does manufacturer. Problems with 'tight/stuck' spark plugs result from over tightening. If you read manufacturers instructions on packet it is impossible to get it wrong.

p.s. just in case you might be left handed, make sure that you are applying pressure in the correct direction to undo plugs. That should be anti-clockwise.

[fitz_vt]

Originally Posted by Benboy

I don't agree with comment re applying anti-seize to spark plug threads neither does manufacturer. Problems with 'tight/stuck' spark plugs result from over tightening. If you read manufacturers instructions on packet it is impossible to get it wrong.

p.s. just in case you might be left handed, make sure that you are applying pressure in the correct direction to undo plugs. That should be anti-clockwise.

nah mate right handed... it budged, and is slowly undoing just taking it step at a a time.... (i think i may need to re thread)

[fitz_vt]

YAY!!!! finally got it out, now have champion golds in my car Yay

[Ozzie]

Originally Posted by fitz_vt

YAY!!!! finally got it out, now have champion golds in my car Yay

Good news mate. I take it you never had to re-thread?

[fitz_vt]

Originally Posted by Ozzie

Good news mate. I take it you never had to re-thread?

nope no rethread needed a bit of wd-40 and a but if elbow grease with a new socket wrench did the trick

[ozengines]

The problem with Copper is that it is a high valence metal, so it will dillute a significant lesser valence metal, within time it will weaken the structure of the thread, and you will one day, pull out pieces of the thread with your plug
Its called Galvanic Corrosion
Copper should only be used on metal to metal threads like the header studs, were there is contact with aluminium steer away from copper, use aluminium anti seize or graphite based.
Beware of grease based things or oil on your sparkplug, every time there will be al thin layer of "ceramics" baked on the thread, and the plug will go more unwillingly (the same thing you see as a brown to black enamel on the underside of your pistons).

[pablo]

Thanks for that ozengines, that is very interesting reading about all these scientific technical observations. Just wondering, how long would it take before the thread would be ruined by using a copper base anti-seize on the plugs in
A/ Aluminium head
or
B/ Cast iron head

Pablo

[fitz_vt]

PS my holden has a cast iron head not an aluminum head