Help plz(vt rear brakes overheating)

[hinrik]

Hey guys, just need to pick all of your brains for a little bit of information

having lots of trouble with rear disc warping on my vt (common fault apparently).
3 months ago i put DBA slotted discs and bendix pads on the front which is still good and just put the same on the rear to get rid of the shudder, two days later i noticed that it is starting to shudder again. tonight from work i checked the temp, i could touch the front comfortably but could barely touch the rear.
This shouldn't b right?
Any ideas to why it is?
Handbrake has never worked since i had it, and i have just been told that the handbrake shoe can cause trouble if its too loose as it rattles around??

any ideas will be appreciated as this is killing my wallet and doing my head in.

thanks guys

[Tasmaniak]

your handbrake is stuck on, get it fixed and you will find that your car has a bit more power!

Do a little test...when it is doing this, pull over and slow right down and then slip the car into neutral. Does it slow down pretty quickly? when it comes to a stop does it just roll to a stop and sit there or does it push your body forward a little because it was a slightly sudden stop? If it's the later, then your hndbrake is definetly stuck on.

Going through a lot of petrol lately?

[VT-565]

If the handbrake is stuck on, then generally it will be hard to change discs on the rear. Was it hard to remove the old discs and difficult getting the new ones on? I think it might be in the caliper. Check your caliper pins are sliding free and well lubricated, the caliper jamming can cause your brakes to ride and subsequently heat up. But either way, you would have noticed something 'odd' when you changed the discs.

[235rwkw]

discs warp from 2 things:

washing wetting them when they are hot.

not doing up the nuts evenly on the wheels

brakes are suppose to get hot.

what do you touch the discs after a drive? i'd get my finger burnt off doing that

[VT-565]

discs warp from 2 things:

washing wetting them when they are hot.

not doing up the nuts evenly on the wheels

lol are they the only reasons? he he he

brakes are suppose to get hot.

the brakes are biased towards the front, so in theory, the fronts should be hotter.

[235rwkw]

lol are they the only reasons? he he he


the brakes are biased towards the front, so in theory, the fronts should be hotter.

on commodores that develop shudder yes 80% of the time that is the cause.

front should be hotter yes, too hot to touch unless you don't use them, rear also too hot to touch after a few quick stops. I have vented rears and they are to hot to touch after a drive.

unless he drives like miss daisy with little braking effort and rear brakes have a problem maybe. otherwise the front maybe the real problem and all the braking is on the rear!! lots of reasons, and without seeing the car, could be anything.cold enough to touch fronts sounds like a problem to me. go for a drive, do a few quick stops just before you park, then put you finger in the front disks and see how hot it is then try the back if your finger isn't stuck to the front already.

i've not had warped discs at all always use a torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts. the nuts and the wheels is all that holds the discs on.

park brake problem is easy to check jack up and turn the wheels. although i doubt they are locked on, you ever tried the handbrake when moving ,the clunking and banging is quite noticeable. rattling park brake shoes are fixable with an anti rattle kit from holden $30. but in your case i'd get it to work first, how do you pass inspection with no handbrake? in qld? Why didn't you fix the park brake when fitting the new rears, if the shoes ok probably just needed adjusting, which is easier with the discs off. i can do instructions on this.

when you put new discs on you should clean off all rust on the hub, and fit the disc in the position of least runout, checked using a dial indicator gauge and placing the discs in different positions, then torque the nuts up.
ps bendix pads sorta suck, which ones not metal i hope...rotor munchers they are. best pads for superior stopping power are ferodo ds2000 or ds 2500, next best and far less dusty are ebc green.

[pablo]

I found my hand brakes always seemed to drag a little after using them. But, if I apply them quickly only while moving a little backwards, release them, then drive off forward, they don't drag at all.
Try greasing the caliper 'slide pins' with a bit of rubber grease.

[235rwkw]

I found my hand brakes always seemed to drag a little after using them. But, if I apply them quickly only while moving a little backwards, release them, then drive off forward, they don't drag at all.
Try greasing the caliper 'slide pins' with a bit of rubber grease.

that anti drag anti rattle kit would help that issue. fits an extra retaining spring

[policehoon]

sounds like the front brakes are not working at all. The back brakes are doing all the work.

Take the car to a brake specialist and get him to check it out, it will save you in the end run.

Trying to nut it out yourself, is just asking for trouble.

[VT-565]

This is the curse of troubleshooting over a forum.

The owner now needs to tell us if the braking performance of the car is lacklustre (which would definitely be the case if the front brakes are not working), so i think a bit more info is needed to narrow it down any further.

Are the front brakes even wearing at all? you could test this by putting a line with a nikko pen across the disc and go for a quick drive.

[ScoHar]

Maybe rear calipers seized? I had this on a VR (i know different brakes) but they were seized kind of open so I was able to fit new pads in there and seemed like they were working fine, until bang smoke pouring out of the rear wheels (not in the good way), turned out caliper was seized on a crazy crooked angle and thats what my problem was, the piston still moved normally but the bore must have been rooted and when the piston was trying to come out it came out on an angle.