couple questions about vt diff and springs
i called king springs wanting to lower my vt sedan. i want SL in the rear and L in the front. im told to get a rear camber kit and ill need shorter shockies for SL's. so i called tyre power to get a price on rear camber kit and was told, not worth it, they do **** all in helping inner tyre wear. has anyone else heard this? i dunno who to believe
also, i jacked up the rear end of my car, take the filter plug off the diff to check the fluid, had to stick my pinki in pretty deep to find the top of the fluid, and it stunk, im told the fluid gets burnt when the diffs had a flogging, would this be right? is it bad for the diff with that burnt **** still in it? im thinking of going to commo wreckers to get a reconditioned one installed
if anyone has some experience with either of these problems, please help.lol
Exhaust Guru
You really don't need a camber kit if you are only going SL in the rear. If someone tells you they don't do anything then they obviously don't know how to adjust them correctly.
With the diff, just flush it and change the oil, should be fine. When you drain the old oil, check to see if there are any bits of metal in it, if it looks like its got glitter in it then it should be fine as long as it isn't too bad, but look out for bits that are larger than 2-3mm.
My VX has factory fitted FE2 and had severe inner tyre wear . I had a camber kit installed and after 30,000 kays they are now wearing pretty even . Camber kits don't completely fix the problem but the do help alot as long as they are set up right .
there are three types of people in the world , those who can count and those who can't
Banned
Even stock you can get premature tyre wear if you have a heavy load in the rear all/some of the time and they are worth it on any lowered spring combo other than the stock size.
Is there evidence around the bottom of the diff indicating a leak? id just takethe cover off, give it a good clean out, refill it tuntil it starts to overflow out of the diller hole then monitor it.
does anyone know the oil to use in the diff?
put some of that fuel system cleaner stuff you pour into your fuel tank for the injectors, i can already feel the difference ay, so much cleaner.
use the oil holden sells u, i trusted 2 different work shops and blew up an open diff and 1 lsd after a change, diff oil sticks to high heaven btw even when its good, something else to if your lowering it u should look into replacing the drive shafts with shorted ones as the old ones can compress to far and lock up and **** the diff and flat spot a tyre
if u want it to handle go khrl 125hd for rear and khfl47hd for front gives a relative lvl ride height and nice firm ride
oh and if a kmac kit gives around 16 degrees of movement u decide if thats going to change tyre wear,
Last edited by sealy_au; 21-11-2008 at 12:22 AM.
JCCC Warrnambool
check with QLD trannysports modification laws too.
im prety sure it has to be the same height all round (either SL's or L's but not both) otherwise you risk defection.
ozzie to hard to regulate plus sl and sl give dif highs at front n rear
and diferant brands they'd have no idea
Exhaust Guru
The axles you mean? There is enough movement in the CV joints to allow for suspension travel.Originally Posted by sealy_au
If you mean the tail shaft, the car is IRS, the diff is fixed, the tail shaft doesn't move. But I think you are talking about the axles....
irs they call them drive shafts not axels, and with a 4 point kit and super lows u can sometimes run into trouble, its to do with the back foward adjustment affect u get with the kits,
for me 250 bucks worth of shafts is better then blowing up a diff, i went the safe way
Exhaust Guru
You say tomahto I say tomayto......
As much as people talk about it, I have never seen it happen in the 20 odd years I have worked with suspension.
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