commodore stalling!

[plasmid2]

G'day all,

It's been a while since I have visited. I tried searching the site but can't seem to find an answer to my issue.

I have a 2001 VX Commodore. 110000 kms. The only mods are exhaust, extractors and LPG conversion about 12 months ago.

The issue is this. Every now and then that car will stall! No warnings what so ever! There are no patterns to it. It might go a couple of weeks without doing it and then will. Sometimes it happens at the lights and sometimes (and more dangerously) when I am sitting on a freeway!!

The battery light comes on but only because it has stalled. It does not come on and stay on.

Anyone experienced this or have an explanation.


Thanks for your time.

[235rwkw]

does it restart straight away or need to cool a bit?

[plasmid2]

it starts straight away. No problems. In fact the car is running the best it ever has!

[235rwkw]

While on gas or petrol?

[plasmid2]

I have only ever noticed it on LPG. However, I run it on LPG 99.9% of the time. So I couldn't tell you if it does it on petrol. Plus it is so intermittent you just never know when it is going to do it!

Thanks for your time.

[azzaVT]

if there is no "lean out", before the stall, I'm guessing we can say the LPG delivery sytem is still working. (The fact it restarts easily afterwards would tend to back this up, as it doesn't need to re-prime.) (Unless you've got an injected system, in which case you can disregard the rest of this post for now.) What stops, would appear, to be your ignition system.

Being that you've got LPG is going to mean you have some sort of piggy-back to your normal ignition, which means you've got an extra layer to fault find.

Firstly I would look to sort out the standard ignition system, then I would look to the point in the system where the PLG setup integrates with the GMH parts. Most likely you are looking for a loose connection. A heat stressed component would normally give you more dramas, as would a corroded connector. A cold solder joint would also fit the bill, essentially a loose connection.

It would be handy to see if your computer has logged any cylinder misses.

[plasmid2]

thanks azzaVT. The LPG system is not a direct injection system. I have read the system diagnoses codes but make no sense to me.

It gives 10 initial flashes. A short pause followed by 10 more flashes.
Then a longer pause followed by 1 flash. A short pause followed by 2 flashes. (code 12)

Then it repeats this process.

So if I am reading it properly it would mean the first code is 110. There is no code 110!!

Bottom line is I am just trying to pinpoint the problem before I start spending dollars that I don't have.

[azzaVT]

I can't comment about that code, but I think you need the Tech2 to get the codes for cylinder misses (someone else might comment on this).

One thing you can do, which doesn't cost (more than the fuel), is to run your car (in park, handbrake on) and massage your wiring loom. What you're trying to do is find a point that makes the engine miss/stall. Don't be too rough on it, you're not trying to pull things out, just flex things a bit with the tips of your fingers. Up under both sides of the dash, and in front of the firewall (drivers side) under the bonnet, are where I'd start. Also the loom to the ignition/coil modules etc.

Trying to find an intermittent fault is tough, fiddling with the loom like this might just recreate that once in a while vibration that breaks the connection (if that's what it is).

[plasmid2]

thanks. will try.

[plasmid2]

I found another thread on here in regards to codes. Apparantly 10 flashes means zero. So I was getting 0012. Code 12 meaning all normal.

I tried the 'massaging' my wires. Could not find anything. I will just keep waiting.

Thanks.

[fitz_vt]

mine does this too but for me my battery is whack (i think it needs replacing) but my car will just die and not turn over i have no display on my displays nothing no lights.... didly squat....
just wondering if this could be the same thing. (it doesn't happen constantly)

[coasty]

ive been tracing the same fault with my wifes vt. when it stops some times you have to restart it others it just starts itself again. its auto so its not clutching its self. been going at it for 12 months and no fault codes are coming up

[rjrservices]

First things first:
Run it on petrol for a while (more expensive to run). I have heard stories about lpg 'fouling' the ignition system. Also, try to make a habit of starting the car on petrol and let it warm up a bit, then switch to lpg. I can't remember why you should do this, but I remember it being important.

(as suggested above) My initial thoughts are you have a broken ignition wire somewhere (or nearly broken) and every now and again it vibrates to break the connection.

Also check around your starter motor for signs of a loose solenoid.

Check your battery terminals - are they corroded? (white stuff all them, particularly negative earth) if there is, put some gloves on (the stuff is acid) and a wire brush and clean up your terminals (disconnect the battery first to avoid arc'ing out)

Check your grounding points on the negative wire.

Check your relays (ignition, alternator), make sure they are secure and look for any damage

Check your alternator for signs of problems.

Basically you want to check all your wiring

Also try and take note of what you were doing at the time, i.e. did you just flick the air con on, a fan, windscreen wiper, the weather (extreme cold/heat, raining).

[kovini]

check the voltage at the battery with the engine running to check for correct operation of the alternator. should be 14.4 or better. also check to see if it is running smoothly or with much vibration.

Basically, before going and digging for hours, check the smaller things that are easy to check. like rjr said. And id probally start with the alternator. Ive seen several commodores with alternators on the way out that would stall at ill oppourtune times. my personal favourite was backing a fully loaded 7x5 trailer up a 35% inclined driveway. much fun!

[social]

Have you tried keeping your foot on the clutch so it wont stall lol

but nah, could it be that ur accelerator cable is a little loose? so what its set to idle at isnt enough to keep the engine running? To see if this is possible, start the car up, keep ur footon the accelerator to about 1500rpm and it shundt cut out. Maybe some adjustment udner the hood is needed?