i cracked the sump on my vt v6 commodore, im looking to replace it, ive been told u can remove the k frame after lifting the motor to remove the sump. is that true? how do u remove the k frame??
heard that u gotta move the power steering rack also
Yep, but you don't have to remove the 'K' frame completely, just drop it down off the engine mounts.
all good, done it yesterday, all ya have to do is undo the engine mounts and lift the motor about 50mm (2 inches) and the sump comes out quite easily, me and a mate did it in about 4 hours...
did you have to disconnect the a/c, fuel lines etc that are hard piped? im about to replace mine on a VY so any info or tips you have would be much appreciated
thanks in advance
does anything have to be removed from the top or rear of the engine to lift it the 50mm
I dont think so, those pipes have some flex on it. When i had my mounts changed, they lowered the car down on a hoist with a seperate stand under the sump and dropped it down onto it to lift it.
Just thought i'd reply to this thread if anyone ever gets stuck doing this job with a bit more info.
This is how i did it yesterday at home. I doubt most ppl doing this have a compressor and air ratchet but it makes life so much easier when removing. Obviously delicate sump bolts need to be done by hand when refitting tho.
Jack up the front of the car, and place jack stands on the chassis rails.
Removing front wheels gives you more wiggle room but not necessary.
Undo the engine mount nuts, 2 on each side, 15mm nuts.
Remove 2 bell housing bolts that go into the sump from the back, 19mm bolts
With a piece of timber jack up the transmission from the bell housing area until it is at its maximum height, you will see it start to lift the car slightly off your jack stands. it is ok if the engine mount studs come out of their housings
undo all the 10mm sump bolts, you will need a 1/4 inch drive with a uni. and a 10mm ratchet spanner for the front ones.
The sump should fall free now but you wont be able to remove it yet.
Undo the two 17mm nuts and bolts holding the steering rack in place and lever it out until it is sitting free, dont worry the tie rods, intermediate shaft and lines will hold it in place.
I removed the oil pick up, two 8mm bolts.
Then the sump was free.
Use a genuine gasket, these are metal, aftermarket ones are cork and wont last 10 minutes.
Use plenty of sealant after you've cleaned it all up.
Put the sump and oil pick up back in with thread lock or locktite.
Refit all the nuts and bolts and rack too.
Now, you will notice there is no way in hell those engine mounts are going back in.
Get a ratchet strap around the upper parts of them and ratchet it with a rag against the sump.
ie - the ratchet strap goes around the engine mounts and the hooks hook into each other. Then you can tighten the ratchet mechanism and slightly lower the engine/trans. once one stud is close, use a lever bar to lever the other stud in against the one that is just aligned. its hard to explain but you'll see what i mean when you do it.
do the same on the other side.
wait 2 hours for the sealant to dry, add your oil and check for leaks.
Wash off the old oil stains with degreaser the next day.
cheerio
Last edited by moz_and_paul911; 04-02-2012 at 12:20 PM.
Just wondering if you bought the new sump off the Internet. If so what website did you get it off?
or you can unbolt 1 mount from the engine and drop the motor down and then put the other side back on.
i just got told by the mechanic today that my sump gasket is leaking on my 3.8 ecotec, and to leave it as its a tough job, ie, taking out the k frame ect, now that i have read the above i think the mechanic is talking sh#t, so im going to grab a mate and give it a crack, but has anyone who has done this taken any pictures of the process by any chance?
also do you have to undo the upper control arms from the k frame?