DIY steering rack replacement
G'day,
Having just replaced the steering rack in my VT series 1, I thought I would give some words of advice to anyone contemplating the job.
I bought a reconditioned rack, and followed the instructions in the Gregory's manual.
It is worth spending some time carefully supporting the front of the car off the ground with chassis stands so you have plenty of safe access.
Although you only have to undo 7 nuts to get the rack out, it is a real bastard of a job to get to at least two of them: these are the ones that join the power steering hydraulic lines to the steering gear. These two nuts are different sizes, the bottom one is 16mm (not sure about the top, but it is bigger). Undo the top one first and push it back along the hydraulic line, that improves the access to the bottom nut. It took me about 2 hours and a lot of swearing to remove both nuts! I could only find two positions where I could get an open-ended spanner onto the lower nut, and each position only allowed me to turn the nut about 1/32nd of a turn if that. The steering racks for other model Commodores are a bit different, so you may have more luck.
The only other problem was removing the tie rods from the steering knuckles. I used a fork type "puller", and while it worked, it destroyed the rubber boots and one of the nylon spacers. In any case, I couldn't remove one of the tie rod ends from the tie rod (it was seized on), so I just decided to install two new tie rod ends ($27 each from Auto One). The new tie rod ends didn't have the nylon spacer - it doesn't appear to be necessary.
Reinstalling was straightforward. Do up the bottom nut on the hydraulic lines first, then the top.
All in all, about 6 hours of hard work to save maybe $350. Next time I could probably halve the time, but a lot depends on how easily those nuts come off.
After having the wheels aligned, the car is steering like new and the various "clunks" from the front end have vanished.
Jarryd
Great write up mate, its good to see people telling us these things that they don't tell us in workshop manuals, it really helps.
I heard that you have to depressurise the power steering and then re-pressurise the power steering. Is this true? or is it just a bolt off bolt in job (and then re-align)?
The hieght of my experience with steering racks is that i replaced my tie rod end - woo what an arvo!
mmmm beer....
I bought a tie rod end puller for about $30, makes them a heap easier to get off and doesn't damage the rubber.
Last edited by Swordsy; 13-01-2009 at 09:53 PM. Reason: spelling
Searching for the billion
Jazza , I Never heard of de-pressurising the steering ... haven't done it myself yet tho. I guess you will find out when you undo the first pressure line ey !!
Frustrated , Good job, I simple write up like that would give me the confidence to do this myself when the time comes ... which i think will be pretty soon.
Well, the power steering isn't pressurised unless the engine is running to turn the power steering pump. With the engine off, you can undo the hydraulic lines and the fluid just drips out (into a container you carefully put underneath the carOriginally Posted by jazza15
). In fact, it may be worth siphoning the power steering fluid out of the filling reservoir before you start, since it is all going to drop out of the open lines anyway.
With the new unit installed, and the hydraulic lines tightened up, you simply fill the reservoir and move the steering wheel from lock to lock for a while until the bubbles stop coming up. It is explained in the Gregory's manual. It is much easier than bleeding brakes.
Incidentally, I have previously disassembled and replaced the seals on the power steering pump. This is something that Gregory's says is not a "worthwhile repair proposition for the home mechanic", but it is actually fairly straightforward. The only difficulty is getting the snap ring out, and putting it back in properly when you have finished.
Oh, a bit of advice that the chap that sold me the rack gave me: don't try to bend the hydraulic lines out of the way. Just push them gently straight back away from the steering gear once you have the nuts off. And when you install the new rack, gently put the lines in (with a new o-ring on each), and the nuts will then do up without any forcing. This is definitely an operation where force is not required (unlike the tie rod ends!).
And don't undo the wrong lines: there are another couple that are attached to the rack. These have easily accessible nuts, just leave them alone. The ones that you want are the inaccessible bastards!
For external use only
For anyone who's struggling to get a tie rod end out of the steering knuckle, bash the knuckle left and right and back and forth with a large mallet for a while. Then one hard knock from the top should send it on its way
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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Searching for the billion
I'm replacing my rack tomorrow, got a reco rack ready to go in.
Do u need any other spares than 2 new o rings ? And what type of spanner do you need for the hydraulic lines ? Is it just a regular one or a pipe spanner ... those ones that look like a ring spanner with a slot cut out ?
Greenacc - no other spares needed, unless you damage something. A pipe spanner could be quite helpful, since it gives you more options in starting position. I just used a regular open-ended spanner. It could be that the VS has different positioning of the hydraulic lines, so it might be easier or harder than my VT.
Good luck, and let us know how you get on!
Searching for the billion
Ah well, I fitted a reco steering rack and power steer pump today. They both fitted up OK but there is a problem. The steering is not self centreing any more, it's completely aimless. The wheel alignment is also out, but does this sound like there's a problem with my clock spring ?
Also, how do they adjust Toe in and out when you get a wheel alignment ? Do they have to knock the tie rod end out of the knuckle and turn it, or can they just crack the lock nut and turn the tie rod ?
Nil Bastardo Carborundum
Hi Greenac
The wheel alignment affects the steering feel and the car's self centering is controlled by the vehicle's castor, camber and toe-in/out. It sounds as though your car needs a complete wheel alignment, not just toe-in. The clock spring has nothing to do with the steering of the vehicle - it is purely a connection point for the air bag and stereo controls.
To adjust the toe in, the locknuts are released and the tie rods are rotated - there is no need to undo the tie rod end. I wouldn't even bother trying to adjust this, get your car to a good aligner and have the job done properly. Point out the lack of self centering and ask them to road test before and after adjustment.
Searching for the billion
Calaber, Cheers for your detailed explanation. I removed the boot from the old rack andeventually figured this out, but as you suggested I took the car to pedders today to do a proper alignment. They usually do a good job there so it should be OK. I think the trouble was caused by the new tie rod end i fitted. I counted the turns when i removed them and put them back on the same way, but the new one was a bit shorter whixh seems to have stuffed me, and it looked like there was aout 10mm of Toe, and drove like a snow plough!! i guess we live and learn.
Nil Bastardo Carborundum
Don't feel too bad about it - I'm sure many of us have experienced these sorts of probs after replacing tie rod ends or other steering parts - I know I have. A good wheel alignment after repairing the steering can yield wonders in steering feel and drivability. Hope it all sorts out for you.
Vx Calais / Ve Berlina
I have had to replace one in my old vs stato for $650 the 1 in my vx calais now needs doinggunna cost me $685 fitted an wheel alin. Or should I try it myself and I can get a new reco 1 for $240 after sending my old 1 back. ? Pedders it that $685 quote but there only reco's as well. Well thats what im told. thats why when I asked for my old 1 back they already gone to the tip pfft lol.
Always In Construction Mode!!!!!
Nil Bastardo Carborundum
It really depends on two things. First, do you have the tools, knowledge and time to do the job, bearing in mind what Frustrated had to put up with?I have had to replace one in my old vs stato for $650 the 1 in my vx calais now needs doing
Second, do you want to save a few bucks - like $200 or more - by doing it yourself? In fact, from what you've been quoted, the savings would be more like $350 to $400.
I know it's a shit of a job, but I wouldn't hesitate to replace the rack myself, then get the alignmnent done.
Searching for the billion
yep, mine is all good again after the alignment ... apparently it had 30mm of toe in when i drove it in to pedders. OUCH.
NVE069, its not toooo hard to do your self but allow yourself a day to do it. I recommend sizing up the nuts on the high pressure pipes any buying a decent pipe spanner for each size. They are dam tight and you don't want to round the nut with a normal spanner. Also i reckon it would be easier to disconnect the tie rod ends just by turning the rack ends about 20 times till the tie rod end falls off, rather than bashing anything with a hammer. I bought an ABW tie rod end seperator from Repco and it was total rubbish, so i don't recommend them. Other than that its a piece of cake, although on a calais you would have speed sensitive steering, which could be a little more complex.
Moto X Champion!
i replaced my rack about 6 months ago!!! made up a few new words!!! busted a few knuckles... and all because of 2 pipe bolts!!! not fun but after 4-5 hours all was over!! p.s when you remove the steering shaft from the rack make sure u remember to put it back on!! lol steering wheel turning but car not is not fun!!!
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