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Thread: How do get bolt out?

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    Default How do get bolt out?

    I have broken a flywheel to crank bolt off plush and cant remove with an easy out, someone said try an oxy worried about crank seal

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    Easy out is drillling bolt thinner instead of gripping and pulling it out our local mechanics for repco, told me torque settings were 50nm then 100 nm when it broke i rang holden to find out its 18-22nm then 1/4 turn, so id say its snapped at about 30-35nm with 243 applied,

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    U could try welding a bolt to the broken bolt. Or worst comes to worst just drill the bolt out and retap or heli-coil the hole.

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    when you run out of other options you could try either - using a small sharp punch and tapping the bolt in an anticlockwise direction. This should slowly rotate the bolt until theres enough stud sticking out to grab with vice grips. Or, drilling out the bolt to just below the diameter of the thread. then you should be able to pull the remaining metal out in pieces.
    Is it possible to remove flywheel from engine and attack the remaining stud with flywheel removed.?

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    yes its possible thats how i have it i have tried tapping anticlockwise, but just seems to bur it off, i cant put helicoil because this is crankshaft that would not be wise, and i dont know whether possible to drill it out and tap threaD IS THERE SOMEONE WHO WILL COME AND DO THAT IF I PAY THEM,??? someone must do that shorely, but i haVE to move in aweek and the car has to go back together and be running, what sort of person taps threads

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    yes i need someone to take the bolt out i have a feeling i may ruin it im in the blue mountains area,
    i will attemp other thoughts on this thankyou

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    an easy out should get it if the hole is deep enough and you have the right size easy out
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    i have tried an easy out i have a set but the bolts are lock tight 243 at 35nm approx. when they broke off

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    There is available a 'three sided punch' (triangular shape) which is hammered into a pre-drilled hole in broken bolt, which will 'broach' (cut) three slots in the hole which will enable the punch to grip and turn the broken bolt when the punch is turned.

    Engineers supplies should have/know about them.

    Though, I am surprised if the 'mechanic' at Repco doesn't know or have heard about this way of removing broken studs/bolts.

    Easy-outs are not always the way to go, if they break off, you are nackered, and they tend to slip and expand the hole jambing the bloody bolt further.

    Heat WILL soften your 243 and release its grip.

    The last resort is to have the broken piece 'spark eroded' out by someone with an E.D.M., which will undoubtly require crank removal.

    Pablo

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    A few items that may be of use... The left hand drills apparently sometimes jam and unscrew the broken bolt. I cut and pasted this from a web site.

    Notice that these are LEFT-HAND drills, and they must be used with a reversible drill. Ours are by Snap-On tools, and Snap-On offers more than one model of Left Hand drills. Snap-On tools are typically excellent in quality, but other tool companies also make left-hand drills. (Check with the tool dept. at Sears, or your favorite tool store.)

    One set of drills shown are short length High Speed Drills, and are rated for drilling in steel and other metals.

    The other set shown are COBALT, long length, left-hand drills. The Cobalt is harder material than the standard high-speed drills, and the Cobalt drills are our choice for drilling out grade 8 bolts.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How do get bolt out?-broken6.jpg   How do get bolt out?-broken7.jpg   How do get bolt out?-broken10.jpg  

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    Ok what you need to do is have a nut welded onto the broken bolt with a mig welder, welding the inner hole of the nut to the end of bolt where it is broken.
    i use to work in exhaust shops and was a mechanic many years ago, this is your best bet, you want someone really proficient on the end of the mig welder, as you may not get many shots at it if the motor is out of car take it down to a good engineering shop.

    Once nut is secureley welded on, then heat around the bolt with oxy acetylene torch then wind it out with a good hex socket. heating the flywheel may be of detriment to flywheel but not as much as not getting it off the crank at all.
    Regards Chris

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    You keep mentioning the torque of the bolt, once the head is gone there is no tension on the thread. The only thing holding it in is the loctite. Once you break that it will screw out by hand. Spray it with a solvent.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    yes n it did occur to me yeswterday that there would be no tension on the bolt no the head has snapped off, and i have been given the option of spark erosion , or electrolitic removal if thats how its spelt,? which i was told would cost a few hundred dollares which seems cheaper than another motor, thaNKs for all your help, all i believe my problem is more or lss solved.

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    refering to when the head is off the bolt it will come out easy, as no torque on it.
    Great fairy tale, but not reality, metal binds corodes swells etc etc etc
    good luck...

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    Hey blinky, all the ideas that have been presented to you will work, depending on the accessability of the work piece and what tools and skills are available.
    I personally have removed busted bolts from various parts by carefully drilling them out.
    Can't be done in a hurry, just carefully drilling in the center of broken bolt, first with a small drill, to keep the hole in the center, then gradually increasing the drill size till you just break through into the thread. Then, with a sharp small screwdriver, or something with a point, you can prise the thread and collapse it inward to be gripped with a pointy nose pair of pliers and yank it out.
    Just takes time and patience!

    Pablo

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    Well today im going to be trying to weld small nut to the end ot the broken off bolts and heating with oxi torch , will inform on result

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    Quote Originally Posted by Promotec View Post
    refering to when the head is off the bolt it will come out easy, as no torque on it.
    Great fairy tale, but not reality, metal binds corodes swells etc etc etc
    good luck...
    When installing a new bolt, it is no fairy tale. Also, metal corrosion is not torque.

    Welding a nut to the end of the bolt will work, I have removed many a manifold stud using this method. And they have been seized.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    have managed to remove bolt with end stickg out, but still have problem of trying to remove th one bolt that is flush with easy out broken off inside it, wondering what best type of drill bit should be used i have tried many drill bits all different type the only hole i managd to create was with my dremel using diamond tip but i managd to run out of those, was wondering whether you can buy diamond drill bits and where, or if there is another way

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    Feel sorry for you dude, been there many times myself!
    I've heard of a spray that freezes the bolt to shrink it - the opposite of heating the surrounding metal - but i haven't used it, so i spose its only a rumour! good luck
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsxrdan View Post
    Feel sorry for you dude, been there many times myself!
    I've heard of a spray that freezes the bolt to shrink it - the opposite of heating the surrounding metal - but i haven't used it, so i spose its only a rumour! good luck
    Loctite make it, its called "Freeze your nuts off" or something like that, a few different types of it around.
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