owning alloytecs
i have a v6 vy with exhaust high flow cat, extractors, 1:95:1 roller rockers, CAI and k&n air panel was wondering if people reckon this would be enuf to embarrass an alloytec owner or actually have shown up one with thse mods?
auto or manual???? and is it a ute??? and do you want to show up a 175kw or 190kw
its a manual ute yeah and show up both i gueess lol
Dodges raindrops
why dont u just drag him and see. then when he mops the floor with you, you can make an excuse that you had a full tank and the area dynamics of a ute are far lesser than that of a sedan
so il take that as a no il get raped by an alloytec lol.. i dont wana race if i have no chance is all
Roll Cage Territory
A VY ecotec has 152kw at the engine. My VZ Calais Alloytec has 190kw at the engine. There is no way that you will gain almost 40kw doing an exhaust, extractors, rockers, CAI and K&N Filter (K&N is a waste of time). At the very least, you need a full tune to make the most of your mods. The tune will give you a better gain across the whole rev range than what any other single mod you have done will.
But this is a very open ended question. You can have 2 cars exactly the same in every aspect but still have a difference when raced over the quarter mile or to 100km/h. It can vary from the driver, the gear changes, whether one car has different tyres or different tyre pressure etc. Also, 2 cars can have the same power, but if one car has a lower diff ratio, high stall or transbraked transmission, shift kitted auto etc this can make a huge difference.
I wouldn't spend too much money on an Ecotec if the only reason you are doing it is to embarass an Alloytec owner. Do the modifications for yourself. And if they prove to make your car more powerful and beat an Alloytec, then thats a bonus
looks can be decieving
i got a vx commodore with 2 3/4" exhaust high flow cat, extractors, 1:95:1 roller rockers k&n air filter and tune and i bet a vt ecotec with stage 3 cam and tune which has 156rwk so i though i did alright with out spenking big bucks
Turbo L98 FTW
you'd need a bit more than a cam and tune to get 156rwkwOriginally Posted by tuffvx
Roll Cage Territory
That is a silly statement. Did you have a full 400mt (1/4 mile) race? How long did you race for? Did you both start at exactly the same time? Was one side of the road less tractable than the other? How much fuel in each car? Tyre pressures?
As you can see, racing from a set of lights up to the speed limit or racing for 5-10seconds does not justify somebody saying that their car is quicker than the other.
I hear this all the time. I have had fast cars for much of my life and I hear guys saying that he beat another car at the lights. Unless all factors are equal such as on a dragstrip, then a little 5 sec squirt at the lights is not an indication of how much power you have and whether or not your car is quicker.
I have a 500hp VL Berlina Turbo. I have a mate who has a stock VZ HSV Clubsport. If we were to have a squirt to 60km/h, then the difference would be marginal. This is due to many factors but one main one is that I can't get alot of traction with that much power until I get into 2nd gear, then I can floor it. Plus so many other factors as to where cars get there power from in the rev range. Some cars need a longer race to get up into the rpm and some are potent off the line etc etc.
Have a race to 100km/h and its a different story. On the Gtech performance meter, I beat him by over half a second. Give me a dragstrip with traction and I do a 10.80sec 1/4mile and he would do a 13sec.
So once again, having a quick squirt on the streets against your mate or another car cannot be a method to justify who has the quickest and most powerful car.
Roll Cage Territory
Refer to my post above, but I can tell you that you will not beat a car with 156rwkw with your car with the mods it has.
I can also say that if all the other car had was a stage 3 cam and a tune, then I guarantee that the power will not go from 152kw to 210kw at the engine. If this was true, Im sure the cam manufacturers would be holidaying in Hawaii or the like all year around due to the demand of their 40-50kw power increase from a cam in a VT V6.
lol ok so in other words that dude was talking shit annd i wont beat my mates sv6
thanks guys
6 speed
you'll win down low and then lose mid to top end
a stock alloytec makes all of its power above 3000rpm.
a tuned one is a diff story as the torque management is gone.
Chev badges are an instant fail
If you have a manual ute with all the bolt on mods (air filters included as there is a difference) i would say you would easy beat the 175 and give it a good go against the 190 as long as they are stock auto sedan's.
I have a manual sedan with bolt on mods and was able to pull away from a manual ute with a empty flat tray so there was a huge weight difference in his favour.
Dodges raindrops
i raced a mates alloytec only 170kw and all ive got is the catbcak exhaust. and i beat him up to 150 after that i lost it. but you gotta factor in everything. wether he had a full tank if i got a better start. etc
hmm i think i might give it a go then thanks
Roll Cage Territory
Read these threads below thoroughly and see what you think. I have posted several times in these threads.
I would like to know of your experiences with aftermarket filters giving you more power and how you judged that they were worth it. I like to hear people's experiences as everyone perceives things differently.
I have disclosed my experiences in the threads below. Aftermarket washable filters mainly give you much more maintenance and are not cost effective in the long run;
fuel efficiency mods?
K&N pannel filter?
The posts in the links you posted there is no info other then you saying that some test proved no difference but then went on to say there might be small gains. Well if you read the back of a K&N filter they have tests showing other wise...
One other went on to say that for it to flow better it has to filter less, well no flow has to do with how much filter media there is, quality of the media and thickness of it also.
They cost a lot im not saying they are good value however price was not asked in the first post.
If you want real results then you need a lab with controled conditions which i cant see anyone of us doing. 1/4 mile and traffic light runs will never be able to provide accurate results for performance gains of a filter
And i for one would rather clean my filter than buy a new one every 5000kms and bin a filter that still has life left in it.
Always good to get the company marketing a product to do fair testing. LOL.
Roll Cage Territory
I never said that my testing experiences were conclusive or exact. I asked for your experiences but all I got was you telling me what I have said and posted
I am interested to see what your experiences are with regards to testing the product. I wouldn't pin all my hopes on the manufacturers testing procedures to be unbias.
There has been numerous magazine tests on factory paper element filters like the Holden product I use and aftermarket filters such as the K&N filter. The summary from these tests was said to be that very little, if any, gains or losses could be seen on the dyno between factory and aftermarket filter. Basically this means that ambient temperature and non repeatable dyno readings cannot be held exact for a 4hp less reading on one run or a 4hp gain on another. If you have had alot of cars on the dyno like myself over the last 13 years, you will see that even with 2 power runs being less than 2 mins apart, the dyno can show up different readings from the previous run and this is with no adjustments whatsoever.
Plus if more flow is claimed from aftermarket filter companies, obviously less restriction must apply hence less healthy for a high performance or any engine for that matter.
I know that for myself, I would rather go with a new filter which I know is completely dirt free and not over oiled, rather than spending time with an aftermarket with which I have tried previous.
As for me changing the filter every 5,000kms, well thats because the car isn't doing high kms and spending under $10 on an air filter is worth it to me. Heck, I change the oil sometimes after 4,000kms or less. Nothing wrong with over servicing.
If you are not keen to change every 5k, then do it every 10,000kms. A K&N costs around $60-$100. A paper holden element to me is approx $6-$8 trade price. I can change my filter a minimum of 8-10 times before you recover the cost of a K&N. Plus its easier, less mess, you know you are putting in a completely clean and new filter and no chance of over oiling it, plus you do not have to buy cleaning solution and oil when you stick with the factory item
I have had a K&N filter in my 500hp VL Turbo in the past to see if there was any noticable difference from the seat of my pants and on the dyno. I have since replaced it with the factory Holden element and I can confirm that my dyno readings from the last 2 years and the current readings have not changed for me to think that a K&N filter is worth it or doing any benefit in power or performance.
+1 LOL.
Could you imagine if the manufacturer came out and said that it doesn't flow as good as a standard paper element....that would be suicide
Can you expect anything less from self testing procedures and results
Roll Cage Territory
Also using the factory filter gets rid of the potential side affect of using a reusable aftermarket filter as I mentioned above
VY V6 Dyno check
You want my seat of the pants results ok then,
1 there was more industion noise meaning less restriction
2 it felt it had better response
3 it felt better in the top end.
I have also fitted a pod to a astra 2.2L sri, i just removed the top half of the air box and put the pod in the bay to see the difference and the difference was insane, yes there was no restriction of the box but it was also getting hot air straight from the motor. i then went to to make a propper box for it
You said "Read these threads below thoroughly and see what you think" and i told you what i thought.
And again you can have a better flowing filter with out having less filteration they just use a better media as a filter, and anything getting through any filter is not going to kill your motor unless its water.
It has been well noted that of you oil a k&n filter to much you might throw your maf readings out and it will require a clean, but if you dont use to much its ok in saying that it is also a good idea to clean your maf regardless of what filter you use, take any maf out and it will be dirty.
If you think that a stock paper filter is not holding back your 500 hp car and there is not a better option then fine you can think that but i dont. Do you know just how much air your motor is sucking in every seccond at around 5000rpm????
And why is people still going on about how much they cost it was never part of the question but anyway lets say a stock filter costs the normal person $10 and a k&n costs $150 with a recharge kit you change your filter every 5000kms and the adverage car does 22500kms a year then it takes 3.5 years to make back the money of a k&n filter. I have had me car 6 years so i wouuld have saved money
Roll Cage Territory
Thankyou for your sharing your perceived positive experiences with your 'S' Pack V6 Commodore and an Astra. Muchly appreciated. Enjoy the cleaning and maintenance and don't over oil
OEM+
who changes their filter every 5000km? i don't.
The service manual specifies the filter be replaced every 45,000km, and cleaned at every service (15,000km). There isn't really much point changing it 9 times as often unless you would like to incur 9 times the cost for a couple extra hp.
HoldenOnn changed his every 5000kms
Also you would likely find that the stock filter starts filtering the air better as the filter gets a bit of dirt on it.
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