My daughter put a huge hole in the sump of my VY . i have a replacement but i really need some step by step instructions on HOW to replace it.
please can anyone help me???
You will need to raise the engine about 300mm so the sump can be lowered, below the oil pickup pipe & stilll clear the front crossmember. Just a matter of undoing all the bolts & dropping it , the rear strengthener bars to the gearbox need to be removed & the starter motor to allow easier access to the bolt heads. buy a new genuine gasket (later model alloy gasket with a rubber chevron seal are best) & make sure the mating surfaces are clean of oil, as well use a good loctite gasket cement (high temp) on it. Leaky sumps are a nuisance so use the gasket cement to make sure of no oil leakage. Good Luck...
I would get a manual off ebay to help out, it only cost me about $20 or so and its on a CD. Best $20 i ever spent.
it will say to pull the motor out to do it but as said you dont have to.
Do the sump boilts up to 12-16 Nm
and the rear brace plate to 20-25 Nm
Make sure you replace the sump with a VY one as they have an increased capacity over earlier models. Enigine out would be the proper/ easier way of doing it but if you are on a hoist it wouldn't be too bad I guess.
Forget about trans beaming braces as the VY doesn't have them. The trans bell housing bolts straight onto the back of the engine sump. May want to have a rear main seal plate at the ready in case you find a leaker too
VYII Calais L67
Thanks "Chargedvx6" that extra advice is correct. I haven't done one "in situ" I have always had the donk out of car to remove the sump. Even then its a tedious job. I dont envy this guy at all . No wonder the Dealers' charge about $1500 plus to replace the sump.... I have a VY Super Calais myself & I cant see how these people seem to be punching holes in their sumps all the time- theres plenty of ground clearance even with the FE2 suspension . Unless they have them so far lowered that the sump is scraping the ground. I remember my cousin had a mini cooper "S' back in the 60's & they were always cracking sumps - so many that there was a BMC option of a "Sump Guard" available.
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Thanks ppl for the info , i will let my partner know, The reason there is a hole in the sump is it was my daughters 2nd lesson and she was in a car park , yes a car park trying to park next to an island ( i wouldnt ave let it happen if i was there) anyway instead of using the brake she accelerated straight over the island and all and bang a hole in the sump....my car isnt lowered or anything. Just abit of bad luck for me.
Thanks anyway will see if my partner can do it otherwise will have to pay even more to get it installed.
Thats real bad luck - I recently sold a VS sump to a guy in W.A. on Ebay - I asked him just as an interest why he needed a sump - he replied that he had run over an "Alternator" lying in the middle of the road, way outback not within hundreds of Klm's from any town. Now you have to ask how an Alternator got to be lying in the middle of the road , & how far the car that lost its Alternator there , got before the battery failed. Now thats a Hard Luck story !!!!!!! (Hitting an Alternator !!!!!)
You don't need a manual to tell you that engine out is the best way Alien. That's just good basic mechanical knowledge. Unfortunately not everyone has the tools and ability to just "pull" an engine which leads to making the best of a bad situation.
To the op, if you do end up doing the job with the engine in the car check and double/ triple check that the engine is very secrurely supported from over head! If it drops while someone is under there fingers/ hands will come off or worse.
VYII Calais L67
i did a vs with the motor still in, just took the bonnet off drove the front up onto ramps undid the engine mounts and lifted the motor.
hardest part was lining the engine mounts back up.
heres my ride, i know its not much but its mine
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...-ss-crewy.html
and heres my new project
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ml#post1104629
So why is it then that most mechanics do it while the 6 cylinder engines are still in the vehicle?
Time and simplicity. You must agree it takes much less time to do it while the engines in the vehicle instead of adding the steps of removing the engine. Also, simplicity: dont have to connect everything back up and replace coolant.
As long as it is done properly there isn't any problems with doing it with the engine still in. However, the Gen 3's should definatly be removed to replace.
Anyways, here's some pics of my oil sump after it was replaced. Sorry about the blurryness of the second pic, iPhone camera isn't great. The shiny bits are the sump. Please note that this pic is from an L67 engine and to change the sump in it you need to remove the suspension crossmember you see there. If the sump looks like that you'll need to remove the suspension crossmember, otherwise it can be done with it still there.
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The Ecotec and super 6 have the same sump regardless of which model. i.e. the VS-VX have the same sump whether it's supercharged or not and the VYs have the same sump whether it's charged or not
VYII Calais L67
now you should look for a sump cover that come on x cop cars so you will not get a cracked sump again
Yes, you can get these through Holden, they're from the Adventura range though and cost a tad bit over $1300. Depending on which Holden dealer you goto i guess. Well, that was the last price i got from them at consumer price. If you have a trade account it's a bit less, but still costs more than another sump!
I'm guessing the Adventra/police sumps are stronger, maybe strong enough to run over an alternator? LOL Alternator in the middle of nowhere.
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