Yesterday for the first time my drivers door would not unlock with the remote after several tries. The button in the inside would also not come up manually. The door eventually opened by pulling the inside handle. Is this something that is common and does anyone know what is wrong and how to fix it. The door seems to be opening properly now. It was raining yesterday however the car has been driven in the rain before yet this has never happened.
I had the same problem. The shaft that runs from ure central lock unit to the door handle most likely unclipped. Remove door trim and look for the shaft that aint connected to anything.
My WK did the same thing but on the passenger door. $150 later and it was fixed. I'm sure it doable yourself but I didnt want to take all the trim off the doors etc. If it was my old VX I would have done it but the Caprice is in show room condition and I want to keep it that way.
Faulty door lock actuators were a common fault in VY's. Holden changed the supplier or the supplier changed the design, not sure which, around that time and the "new" design was faulty. Permanent fix is to replace the actuator with the later, revised one.
Thanks Calaber do you know the timeline for these changes and if the changed actuators look different? My car was built 31 Nov 2003. I've had the back left door off to fix a leak and the drivers door to fix the inner belt strip. I might ull the trim off and see what brand the actuators are.
My vy berlina did one and it was a 04 model. Not much you can do about it but the job should be pretty straight forward if you wanted to do it yourself.
My boot lock actuator shit itself, cost about 20 bux for a new one. They look like real cheap crap too. The doors have been ok so far but I think they are made of a better material than the boot actuator.
'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'
i have an 03 vy ute and my passenger lock has given up. it still locks and unlocks the drivers side when i move the passenger one manually but it wont move when i press the button the key. does this mean my actuator is buggered??
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My 2004 VY had this exact problem with the back left hand door, couldn't open it manually or with the remote - After only owning it for 1.5 weeks.. shitty
Lucky I got a 3yr extended warranty.
My sisters commodore is the same its a 1999 model but, and my grandparents car, not sure of the year model, it cost them $300 to get it fixed.
Mine drivers door is doing it after the car is driven in the rain. Any other time and it is OK. Also 2 weeks ago the passengers door would not lock using the remote on a hot day.
With the drivers door you can't open it with the remote, the button comes up and the only way to open it is with the inside handle. Has anyone had the same problem and found a fix? I am thinking it may have soem loose insulation or the mechanism inside the door may need lubrication.
I think I will take the door trim off and have a look.
Replacing the lock mech is straight forward - I did my passenger side one a couple of years ago - think the part cost $80 which seemed reasonable as its complicated.
Only thing I did wrong is there is a plastic stay that leads from the armrest to back of the door inner skin - the screw is behind the interior door handle. Doesn't look like much but make sure you take it out. I didn't and busted the stay after much screaming about how hard the door skin was to remove - it was just me being stupid.
After that - easy!
I thought I'd see if anyone else has similar issues as me with their central locking, it seems many people have problems with the actuators and I'm not sure if this is my problem to but here's what happens.
about 2 years ago I started getting the "beeping" when locking as if a door was ajar (it wasn't) when this happened I would lock manually, it became increasing bad and ended up NEVER working from the button on the key, then about a year ago I got a new battery and nothing changed for a couple of days but all of a sudden the central locking started working perfectly again ! it operated perfectly for several months and then stuffed up again, when I had the car serviced they said my battery was defective and so I had it replaced under warranty, now the locking sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, it's driving me mad!!
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
my drivers side door use to not unlock when it was really hot but i just had a little fiddle with it and now it seem's to work fine
Has anyone had problems with the lock for the rear tail gate door on the first series Vy Wagons ??
I would like to know if I can use the key in the driver's door to both lock and unlock the car on an ongoing basis, and never use the remote buttons?
Someone has suggested that each time I use the key in the door in this way, that is it logging an error somewhere on the immobiliser computer, and that eventually the immobiliser will prevent me from starting the car. Is this true?
I have been simply using the key in the door for over a year with no problems (I turn it to the left twice to deadlock it). I would like to continue doing it this way.
For those that really want to know, the reason I started doing this was because of some wierd problems. For example, when I tried to use the remote button to unlock the car and it would not work (maybe the battery was going flat or whatever), I opened the door using the key in the door keyhole. Yes, the alarm went off, but normally I could then simply insert the key in the ignition and turn it and the alarm would stop screaming. But this did not seem to work - it took about a dozen goes of locking/unlocking the car and eventually I got it to stop screaming.
Since then I have stopped using the remote buttons (I've taped then over with duct tape), and would like to simply use the key in the door lock, for ever, if that is possible. I don't car about the security that the alarm or the immobiliser security might provide - so long as I can lock and unlock the car without using the remote buttons I will be happy.
Many thanks
RodB
VY Commodore Lumina Wagon 2002