I know I've posted regarding steering shudder before but this one is a bit different.
When I drive at 100km and I get the slight shudder, I then break at from 100-80km i get a shake when braking pretty bad. but if I drive at 100km and it does not shudder, I do not get the brake shudder.
Would a break pad machining repair this? I got it machined last service and it did take away the break shudder but not the cruzing shudder.
Last edited by anonymousmoose; 30-03-2010 at 02:07 AM.
How long ago was the service?
You said you had the disks machined last service and the brake shudder went away, would you say that it has come back the same as it was now?
Is there anything the brings on the shuddering when cruising? Are your wheels aligned correctly? How are your tyres waring?
So do you get a shudder when cruising with out braking? or is it as soon as you put on the brakes and gets worse the harder you press them?
If it does it just when cruising, then dissappears at or over 100km/h, I'd have a look at your wheels, get (at least) the front wheels balanced/checked for uneven tyre wear.
If its only when your braking it'd most likely be the front discs/rotors. It doesn't take much to get them too hot so they warp, one big long brake application CAN warp them.
Around $60 for each new front standard rotor is all you should be paying - if you have someone that doesn't rip you off![]()
I have the same issue, only mine appeared after a service when the mechanics skimmed the brake rotors and replaced the pads ... I tell you what, it's bloody annoying!
If computers have no doors or fences, who needs Windows and Gates?
What sort of tyres are they? I had some Toyo's once and the front vibrated when I first drove the car after it had been sitting for a few days, once the tyres warmed up it usually went away. However sometimes the car vibrated at speed but not always. You could try rotating the tyres it sounds like they are out of round. Another trick get the tyres rotated on the rim a bit, TOYO did that for me and it helped.
I would't bother with machining the brakes just get new rotors, I'd try the RDA slotted. There easy enough to put on yourself and a set would be about $150.00. You just have to make sure the hub surface is clean of rust and scale, use a wire wheel on a drill and put a bit f grease on the centre bit that sticks out through the centre of the disc.
If your pads are good you can try rubbing them with sand paper on a block of wood but if there more than say 1/2 worn get new ones as well. AC Delco from Holden dealers are good and about $50 a set for the front.
Either u need a front tyre balance or the tyres are unevenly worn.
I had this issue on Sunday when i went for a drive up nth, i did a front to rear tyre change on saturday. Got all 4 tyres balanced yesterday no issues at all.
The Blue One
Bearings, which leads to rotor DTV...
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Ah yes the shake issue.....
This might sound dumb but check exhaust system you might of bent the first mufflet alittle bit...
Look at my thread i have been chasing a tyre shake for some time...
I got a shake at 100kmph + and i couldnt drive through it got worse...
The 3 major things to look for is
Wheels / Tyres / Wheel Balance
If you have a ute get a IRS camber kit for it so you can align the rear.. helps shake..heaps
Drivesharft / Tailshaft
Loose or worn componets like rubber dampers...
Exhaust...
Look for bent or loose components...
My 2c RIK...
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Good news, the steering shudder is completely gone now when driving it at 100km. First time since I owned the car. Barbagello tyres re-balanced my wheels.
However the shudder is still and only there when I break from 100-80km/h. I will get the brakes re-done. I think the discs got warped in the Perth storm. The pads must have been hot when I drove in and out of the deep water puddles. Could this be it? But why then only shudders from 100 down to 80km/h
just check your wheels for run out got simmilar prob if you have hit a gutter hard you might have slight buckel in one of ya wheels
caster bushes.