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Thread: break shudder at higher speeds

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    Default UPDATE! break shudder at higher speeds

    I know I've posted regarding steering shudder before but this one is a bit different.

    When I drive at 100km and I get the slight shudder, I then break at from 100-80km i get a shake when braking pretty bad. but if I drive at 100km and it does not shudder, I do not get the brake shudder.

    Would a break pad machining repair this? I got it machined last service and it did take away the break shudder but not the cruzing shudder.
    Last edited by anonymousmoose; 30-03-2010 at 02:07 AM.

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    How long ago was the service?

    You said you had the disks machined last service and the brake shudder went away, would you say that it has come back the same as it was now?

    Is there anything the brings on the shuddering when cruising? Are your wheels aligned correctly? How are your tyres waring?

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    So do you get a shudder when cruising with out braking? or is it as soon as you put on the brakes and gets worse the harder you press them?

    If it does it just when cruising, then dissappears at or over 100km/h, I'd have a look at your wheels, get (at least) the front wheels balanced/checked for uneven tyre wear.

    If its only when your braking it'd most likely be the front discs/rotors. It doesn't take much to get them too hot so they warp, one big long brake application CAN warp them.
    Around $60 for each new front standard rotor is all you should be paying - if you have someone that doesn't rip you off

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    Quote Originally Posted by doobs View Post
    Is there anything the brings on the shuddering when cruising? Are your wheels aligned correctly? How are your tyres waring?
    I've spent too much time and money figuring this out. The light cruzing shudder gets less when I pump up the tyres to 40psi. But the break shudder is new.

    Last service was 5000km ago.

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    I have the same issue, only mine appeared after a service when the mechanics skimmed the brake rotors and replaced the pads ... I tell you what, it's bloody annoying!
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    Quote Originally Posted by anonymousmoose View Post
    I've spent too much time and money figuring this out. The light cruzing shudder gets less when I pump up the tyres to 40psi. But the break shudder is new.

    Last service was 5000km ago.
    What sort of tyres are they? I had some Toyo's once and the front vibrated when I first drove the car after it had been sitting for a few days, once the tyres warmed up it usually went away. However sometimes the car vibrated at speed but not always. You could try rotating the tyres it sounds like they are out of round. Another trick get the tyres rotated on the rim a bit, TOYO did that for me and it helped.

    I would't bother with machining the brakes just get new rotors, I'd try the RDA slotted. There easy enough to put on yourself and a set would be about $150.00. You just have to make sure the hub surface is clean of rust and scale, use a wire wheel on a drill and put a bit f grease on the centre bit that sticks out through the centre of the disc.
    If your pads are good you can try rubbing them with sand paper on a block of wood but if there more than say 1/2 worn get new ones as well. AC Delco from Holden dealers are good and about $50 a set for the front.

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    Either u need a front tyre balance or the tyres are unevenly worn.
    I had this issue on Sunday when i went for a drive up nth, i did a front to rear tyre change on saturday. Got all 4 tyres balanced yesterday no issues at all.
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    Quote Originally Posted by wortus View Post
    What sort of tyres are they? I had some Toyo's once and the front vibrated when I first drove the car after it had been sitting for a few days, once the tyres warmed up it usually went away. However sometimes the car vibrated at speed but not always. You could try rotating the tyres it sounds like they are out of round. Another trick get the tyres rotated on the rim a bit, TOYO did that for me and it helped.

    I would't bother with machining the brakes just get new rotors, I'd try the RDA slotted. There easy enough to put on yourself and a set would be about $150.00. You just have to make sure the hub surface is clean of rust and scale, use a wire wheel on a drill and put a bit f grease on the centre bit that sticks out through the centre of the disc.
    If your pads are good you can try rubbing them with sand paper on a block of wood but if there more than say 1/2 worn get new ones as well. AC Delco from Holden dealers are good and about $50 a set for the front.
    I just got brand new continentals put on last week.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSV6 View Post
    Either u need a front tyre balance or the tyres are unevenly worn.
    I had this issue on Sunday when i went for a drive up nth, i did a front to rear tyre change on saturday. Got all 4 tyres balanced yesterday no issues at all.
    Na, been blanace about 5 times in the past year and new tyres a week ago.

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    Bearings, which leads to rotor DTV...
    Common Problems in Holden VT fitting TB 07
    - GSL RallySport - Ph: 1300 884 836 -
    Sick of paying too much for high performance brake pads? Want high performance and cold bite with low rotor wear?
    - QFM Performance Brake Pads -
    Also specialising in
    - DMS High Performance Shock Absorbers - Monit Rally Computers -

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    Cool Tyre / wheel shake....

    GDAY MATE....

    Ah yes the shake issue.....

    This might sound dumb but check exhaust system you might of bent the first mufflet alittle bit...
    Look at my thread i have been chasing a tyre shake for some time...
    I got a shake at 100kmph + and i couldnt drive through it got worse...

    The 3 major things to look for is

    Wheels / Tyres / Wheel Balance
    If you have a ute get a IRS camber kit for it so you can align the rear.. helps shake..heaps

    Drivesharft / Tailshaft
    Loose or worn componets like rubber dampers...

    Exhaust...
    Look for bent or loose components...

    My 2c RIK...

    ----

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    Default Good news!

    Good news, the steering shudder is completely gone now when driving it at 100km. First time since I owned the car. Barbagello tyres re-balanced my wheels.

    However the shudder is still and only there when I break from 100-80km/h. I will get the brakes re-done. I think the discs got warped in the Perth storm. The pads must have been hot when I drove in and out of the deep water puddles. Could this be it? But why then only shudders from 100 down to 80km/h

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    just check your wheels for run out got simmilar prob if you have hit a gutter hard you might have slight buckel in one of ya wheels

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    caster bushes.

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