Will a VX LSD Fit a VY???

[Zeussy]

Hey guys,

As the title suggests, I have an opportunity to get my hands on a complete diff carrier/subframe with lower control arms, LSD center, and driveshafts; (basically the whole back end minus the brakes) For cheap.

Plan is to short term, mount the Limited Slip Diff (whole thing) into the standard VY subframe. Then use the VX subframe to try and modify to get less camber when lowered... (But thats another story altogether )

So, I have done some searching around and it seems it should fit; Except the flange on the diff would either need to be swapped over, or use the VX tailshaft?

Is that right? If so, I would most likely use the VY diff flange.

VY has Trac, not sure if the VX does, but if not can I just use the pick up wheels/drieshafts out of the VY bolted to the VX diff? Or just use the internals of the VX diff? Or just throw the whole subframe unit in as a whole (if the VX has Trac.)


Any info anyone can share on this topic would be greatly appreciated! There seemed to be a few different answers over the years (in searches) yes/no, it'll fit/it won't fit... etc...
Just asking to get a clear answer

[Zeussy]

And, also, rebuilding an LSD in one of these...

Is it just like any other diff, or are they gay in a technical way?

Would a gregories manual have a description?
Is there a way to 'beef' up the springs, shim them tighter?

Cheers all, looks like it will fit, so I am most likely going to grab it, if its cheap enough lol

[soop]

Diffs' are identicle as far as I'm aware. If by TRAC you mean traction control then yes they have it.

Here's a PM I got from a bloke on another forums, regarding diffs'. I hope its of some use.

Mate, full marks to yah for havin a crack !
You probably don't realize but your about to attempt one of the most technically difficult jobs on a car !
When you take your pinion out will find the nut is very tight and you need a good quality socket and breaker bar and a lump of pipe to get it undone.
Once that is off you can easily take the pinion out by tappin it out with a "soft" hammer or a piece of hardwood and a decent steel hammer.
Once its apart you will notice a spacer sleeve with a bulge in it - this is called a collapsible spacer !
Basically the idea is to tighten the pinion nut till the spacer collapses and you take all the play out of the bearings.
This is done a little at a time otherwise if you over tighten it and have to back it off then you have to get a new spacer and start again.
It is not unusual to need up to 300 foot pounds of torque to tighten the nut and collapse the spacer.
The correct setting on the bearings is to tighten the nut until you can just feel a tiny bit of drag but not feel rough or knotchy !
The bearings run on zero clearance plus a very small (and i mean small) amount of pressure.
When you change the bearings on the pinion you may find a shim under the bearing closes to the gear - put this back in with the new bearings.
To get the bearing on without a hammer or press - heat the bearing in an oven to about 80 degree c !
This will expand the bearing and it will just drop on but work fast as it cools quickly - have a bit of tube ready that fits the inside ring of the bearing so if it stops half way quickly put the tube on the inner ring of the bearing and tap it down with a hammer.
If you do it right it should just fall on !
The other bearing is easy - it just winds on with the nut.

Lsd diff - take the bolts holding the crown gear off and the hemisphere bolts to split it in half !
Inspect for damage or warn shafts, clutches or gears and replace with new if anything is suspect.

Fitting the hemisphere with the new bearings - this is the hard part because if the original side spacers don't suit the new bearings you will have to get a selection of them from a diff place or get some make so you can set correct pre load on the bearings similar to the pinion.

To get it together your going to have to freeze the hemisphere with bearings fitted and the spacers for a few hours and then warm the diff housing to about 45 to 50 degree c.
This will shrink the hemisphere and expand the housing so it will just fall in.

At the factory they have a special hydraulic expander - were not so lucky hahahaha !

Once you've got it all together you need to check with the dial indicator that there is no play in the bearings and if you force with a lever or big screwdriver.
Set the dial on the housing gasket face and the pointer on the back of the diff gear, set it to zero and levering it accross, it should move only .0005" and then spring back to zero.

Then check the play between the pinion and crown - the pinion should only move about 5 deg max and about 2 deg minimum.

Finally you thinly paint the teeth on the crown gear with bearing blue paste and spin the pinion in the normal direction for forward and check the rub marks left on the blue paste by the pinion on the crown gear and the blue paste wiped on the pinion from the crown gear.

If youve got an oval area near the center of the teeth on both crown and pinion and no rubbing on the edges of the teeth on both gears - you've done well ! diff is ready for use !

[Zeussy]

Yep, Trac = Traction Control

That looks like exactly what I was after... Cheers for that!!

Sounds like its just like a 'normal' live axle diff, just with out the axle housings attached?!
Except the bit where the hemisphere bearings are a very close/interference fit into the housing, but thats easy enough!

Just now I need some torque settings which shouldn't be too hard to come across, a manual or a quick phone call should have that sorted

Only thing I might have to get some shims for it, or see what a diff place reccommends to 'tighten' the LSD a tad.

[soop]

That was originally written in refference to the VN Borg warner diff, the VY diff is still a Borg waner diff, a little different but not drastically.