Hey guys, I'm looking at a VY SV8 thats done just under 300,000kms. It's got a full service history right up to it's latest service, and drives really well with no obvious problems. So I'm wondering if there's anything in particular to look at on a car with this many kms?? Also how are the LS1's once they get a few kms on them?? Also the car has had one owner, who is what I consider fairly old and has used the car for mostly long distance highway driving on country highways, so it hasn't had the horrid city stop/start life of some cars, but on the other hand has plenty of stone chips....etc
Last edited by -=$natch=-; 03-11-2010 at 11:03 PM. Reason: Spelling
Good idea to ascertain if the vehicle has been used for towing a caravan. If so, what weight, etc. Could give you a better idea as to likely problems with drive train (trans, diff etc). If used for towing, does it have an additional external trans. cooler fitted. If not, then likely to expect trans. problems caused by overheating etc. Caveat emptor.
Luckily it doesn't have a tow bar fitted, so I can only assume that it hasn't been used for any towing!![]()
I would have no problem suggesting the those K's are no problem for that car - provided servicing has been kept up. If the price reflects the higher K's then it could well be a bargain.
If possible, get a professional opinion on the suspension and steering components, but if the engine is holding it's water and oil - and both are clean - then I'd be quietly confident. Good luck.
"You want fast, reliable and cheap ? You'll find a Commodore out there that can provide any two out of those three!"
The trade in value of one of these with 300000 km on the clock is around $6000 - if you could find a dealer who would take it.
Moving parts/mechanical components do not stop wearing just because the car is used for highway driving. The greater the kms and hours of operation the more wear and tear on many components in the vehicle.
Sellers with high KM cars always say it is due to highway miles. It's the standard sales line.
1. Get a compression test done on the engine.
2. Check the radiator coolant to make sure there is no sign of oil in the coolant . Check the oil in the sump to make sure there is no evidence of coolant in the oil.
3. Check all of the following:
- auto transmission (Is it still the original unit?) It will be well worn (even if replaced at some stage) and may need replacement again soon. If it's still the original unit expect failure.
- the radiator and the efficiency and condition of the cooling system overall. (Radiators and water pumps in these cars do fail with age and use and require replacement). Have a pressure test done on the cooling system.
- fuel injector operation
- springs and shock absorbers
- other front and rear suspension components for wear
- steering components for wear
- the condition of the limited slip differential which will presumably be original and very well worn. A very clunky, whining or otherwise noisy diff is a bad sign.
- alternator and starter motor
- air conditioning system - the compressor will be well worn if original and these are not cheap to replace.
- power operated windows
- central locking system
- condition of the braking system- including master cylinder, brake calipers and flexible brake hoses. (Pads and brake rotors always require periodic replacement).
If the car really has full service records then you should be able to determine from the invoices when expensive items on the car have been replaced.
If all you have is stamps in the service book it tells you very little other than that routine servicing and replacement of cheaper items has been done - like air filters, spark plugs, fuel filters, oil filters, brake pads and so on.
Buying a car like this is rolling the dice. You could end up buying an expensive repair bill unless you can fully and accurately assess the condition of the vehicle and likely imminent repair costs. It needs a thorough professional inspection. There are still good examples of these cars around with approximately 100000 -120000 kms and these would be better value for total dollars spent in my view, if you choose wisely and have them inspected.
i wouldnt touch with a 10 foot pole!
if you cant afford that model car with 150ish kms dont buy it, buy something that is in your budget will cost you less in the long run!
i went with an older daily (vx berlina LS1) simply for the kms it only had 120,000kms and had the motor rebuilt in 2003 under the piston slap program, so the motor only has 80ish thousand on it.
i could of bought a vz calais ls1 with 200kms for same price, but whats the point? drive around in a newer car with more kms and cost more?
or drive around in a slightly older car with same motor, half the kms, cleaner, better history and wont cost anything close to maintain... thats my honest opinion
i got one of these done on my car that i bought a few months ago... did sweet ****all cause the radiator went 2 months later... so i wouldnt rely on it for anything just make sure there isnt any rust in the radiator... if there is get a new radiator and bang it in there straight away cause they arent hugely expensive and then you dont have to worry about it for a whileHave a pressure test done on the cooling system.
if most of it is highway driving i reckon the engine would be alright as long as it wasnt abused... highways are good for the engine cause they can sit at the operating temp for longer and they are pretty much chilling for most of the time lol
OK, well I have taken the car for a decent test drive and I'd have to say that it drives very smoothly & quietly, no obvious diff or auto noise....etc The interior is neat, engine seems pretty clean, no obvious oil leaks, oil and coolant seem clean...etc Had a crawl under the car and the suspension has been replaced fairly recently by the looks, pedders shocks and springs by the looks. Most of the bushes and stuff seem to have been replaced with all nolathane stuff... Also I know that the car has genuine highway miles through a good mate that got me onto the car as he used to work with the owner. Also they are after $9k with rego.... And I should add that I'm intending to have a new engine & gearbox built with a blower setup, plus new suspension...etc in the next 12 months to make whatever car I buy into a bit of a sleeper, just need a car to start with for the mean time.
Pressure tests tell you if there are leaks in the cooling system. You either do or don't have a leak and if there is a leak you have an immediate problem in the cooling system to investigate and rectify.
Pressure tests can never tell you if a part is going to destruct months into the future ( a naive assumption) which is why you do additional visual inspections to the limited extent possible. The plastic parts used in the radiator construction are definite weak points.
Well...after having a better look around on the net at what VY SV8's are selling for, I'm thinking I may as well spend an extra couple of grand a grab one with a few less kms, as there seems to be plenty with low kms selling for around $12k - $14k.
hey mate, theres a black vy sv8 for sale at city holden for $15,000 i saw it there they other day, only done around 150 thousand i reckon.
Cheers for that, might have to check it out!
if you have a leak im pretty sure youd be able to know without the pressure test... it would just help with locating the problem... if you want to find the problem warm the car up and then give it some for about five minutes and then pull over and open your bonnet and you should be able to see if its leaking or not cause its gonna be operating at a higher pressure... trust me it works otherwise i wouldnt be recommending it lol
lol and im sorry but considering the dealer tried to use the pressure test thing as an excuse to not replace the radiator i think i have a reason for hating them lol