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Thread: Electronic Rust Unit

  1. #1
    Goon's Avatar
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    Default Electronic Rust Unit

    Hey Peeps, are the electronic rust unit module things worth it? dealership tried to sell me one the other day but i kept back until i got some other info..

    Any know how much it might cost? I forgot to ask that myself.

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    Are you talking about some kind of Cathodic protection ?
    The concept is sound, its used in various infrastructure projects such as Sydney airport. The runways are basically sitting in Botany Bay so there is a huge cathodic protection system protecting all the steel reo in the concrete. How well they work in a car i'm not sure. WTF are you trying to protect ? A VY commodore ? have you got corrosion problems .. do you park near the beach often ?

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    greenacc were you abused as a boy? all this angst against the church. be happy you at least scored christmas out of it.
    some say it works others say it doesnt. i have seen one on a car full of rust

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    thanks for the help i guess.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    I wouldn't bother the cars have good rust protection anyway. I was tried on for all this overpriced garbage recently when I gought a Pulsar for the missus. They gave me a $250 voucher to spend at purchase on stuff like the electronic rust protection, window tint etc. They wanted like $625 for the window tint which I can get done for about $240 anywhere so be careful. If you really want it go price it elsewhere.

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    ive seen these a mate has one and i cant for the life of me believe they stop cars rusting i think these little boxes are full of shit,your better off just washing and polishing your car reguarlly and paying attention to crevices in wheelarches etc to stop your car from rusting.

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    Wash your car often and keep it clean - best rust prevention you can get.

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    Rust is unlikely to be a major issue in Australia because we have dry, warm conditions and don't need to put salt on the roads to prevent black ice like they do in the US and Europe.
    Rust is most likely to occur where dirt has built up on the undercarriage, thus staying damp and causing rust. A painted part won't rust, but rust can spread under the paint from an exposed chip or scratch in the paint, causing the paint to bubble. The only way to stop rust spreading is to completely bare-metal the part, apply a suitable anti-rust primer and repaint it.
    Salty water causes metal to rust much faster then straight water, so if you live near the coast you should hose off the undercarriage of your car regularly to remove any salt deposits.

    The only thing on my VY that i've had to bare metal and repaint were the brackets for the fog lights.

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    Holdens have had good rust resistance for many years and wasting money on some jim-crackery like an ioniser or cathodic (note to Krisp - that's cathodic, not Catholic) system to eliminate rust is just the sort of shit that dealers are pushing to boost their profits and clean out your wallet. It is totally unnecessary and belongs with Ming treatments, Scotch-guarding, spray on rust proofing and window tinting, (all offered at grossly inflated prices). Competition in new car sales is keeping prices and profits down, so dealers are looking for every means to get their bottom line up.

    Buy a car and look after it yourself. Those other "treatments" are just a wank.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Calaber View Post
    Holdens have had good rust resistance for many years and wasting money on some jim-crackery like an ioniser or cathodic (note to Krisp - that's cathodic, not Catholic) system to eliminate rust is just the sort of shit that dealers are pushing to boost their profits and clean out your wallet. It is totally unnecessary and belongs with Ming treatments, Scotch-guarding, spray on rust proofing and window tinting, (all offered at grossly inflated prices). Competition in new car sales is keeping prices and profits down, so dealers are looking for every means to get their bottom line up.

    Buy a car and look after it yourself. Those other "treatments" are just a wank.
    Well said Calaber. Yeh I live within 300 m of the bloody salty, hot, sandy, overrated beach and after four years have no corrosion occurring on the VY. I do, however wash it at least fortnightly, if not weekly and religiously wax it every three months with Meguiar's liquid wax. I also have blackjacked the entire undercarriage and hose the grime off occaisionally. Fish oil inside the bottom of the doors once a year too.
    'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'

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    Ahh, good ol' fishoil. I swear by the stuff.

    MY dad's HR started to show the usual rust in the lower corners of the doors back in the early 70's. We cleaned the doors out of dust and shit, fixed the rust holes and painted the patches, and gave the old girl a good dose of fish oil. I sold the car in 1989 and it still had the four original doors on it. The fish oil every couple of years just kept the rust away completely.

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    Yeah an old mechanic mate told me about it years ago and I've used it ever since.
    'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'

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    Cheers Guys!!!!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    These things are a crock! I have seen these things on House's (with steel posts), 4wd's and boats and all still have rust problems - ESPECIALLY where the electronic connections attach from the device to the item they are supposed to protect.

    Has Santa ever needed one on his sleigh? Nope!

    ...Waste of money!

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    As previously stated, good maintennance and regular cleaning is the best method to prevent rust in Australia. Mining companies are the biggest users of electronic rust prevention in Australia. In some areas, all of their wheeled vehicles have them fitted.

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