Im currently working on a L67 ecotec motor - making a few mod's an what not, then dropping it in my commodore.
Im wondering whether to keep my original intake or whether to get a pod filter and shield?
I don't know what sort of effect it will have on the blower - it will be run at 10psi.
If someone has any advise that'd be awesome. Cheers
You're likely going to get mixed opinions on this, but personally I don't like the pod filters. Unless you're after something a little more custom to extract a few more horses then id keep it stock for now and look at getting some more cold air to it. In my opinion just bolting on a pod to an otherwise stock intake wont achieve much other than a little more induction whine from the blower.
+1 for NOT a pod filter...
mod your current box and get a better filter, or look at other aftermarket intake/box options...
ok cool cheers for that fellas.
Was just looking at maximising air intake, im keen to run this thing as hard as i can.
Im also intercooling the motor so i dont know if that would change any opinions?
COLD AIR INTAKE TO SUIT HOLDEN VT-VY V6 - Mace Engineering Group
CAI: Alien By Design
I favour the DIY approach - much cheaper.
There is much debate about whether this does any good. Seems to me that for $10 worth of pipe from Bunnings you cant miss.
One of the arguments suggesting there is little/no benefit in cutting the airbox relates to the simple logic that if it does any good, wouldn't holden have done it already? I guess the same could be said for the 10psi pulley...
"You want fast, reliable and cheap ? You'll find a Commodore out there that can provide any two out of those three!"
Thats the pod and shield i was looking at getting.. it looks pretty good to me, i was just wanting to know if anyone has done it and if they noticed any differences
No need to mod the box on a near stock engine. It already flows well enough and the snorkel brings air in from a relatively cool location. All the two hole mod or pod filter will achieve is more noise.
Just put in a high flow filter.
I would be very weary of claims such as "+5kw depending on mods", because its quite tricky to do meaningful back to back testing of induction systems due to heat soak. All you can prove is that one performs better on a dyno then the other. In day to day driving it may perform worse.
You would probably not even see +5kw on a stock engine if you removed everything forward of the MAF altogether!
I can't imagine that changing anything in front of the MAF will be noticeable - can't imagine getting much more air through the maf than would pass through the factory snorkel. With the blower upgrade, especially intercooled, you'd have to make huge gains in this area (assuming that was even possible) to achieve anything noticeable.
Now if you thought it looked better, or wanted to hear more induction - then it's gonna be well worthwhile!
"You want fast, reliable and cheap ? You'll find a Commodore out there that can provide any two out of those three!"
yeah thats it aye.. kinda hard finding a decent way of maximising my air intake but i guess ill see how it goes with the snorkel first and might try something different later down the track.
I'm not sure if it applies to these types of chargers, but It's been proven time and time again on raptor superchargers that 4" pod filter systems intakes flow the crap out of 3" pod systems, and 3" systems flog the crap out of the standard panel filter set ups - I've experienced it personally.
You just have to construct a box to fit it all in there and insulate it from the engine bay heat.
This is applicable to pretty much everything, N/A or boosted. Specially in the case of a factory fitted L67 which uses an NA air box assembly, there are even more gains to be had given the volume flow rate.
Modifying or replacing a standard airbox with a well designed item will yield a measurable increase in performance by itself. In our case, we've never suggested that these items by themselves will yield reductions in quarter mile times by seconds, but going by the overwhelming feedback with people either running properly modded or designed cold air intakes in various configurations, practically speaking work as described.
On a specific note in regards to pod filters, to say a properly designed pod ensure doesn't work, is definitely selling very short the engineers at Honda and FPV, as they've been used on the Honda S2000 (Bare in mind that for years (if not still) the most powerful production engine per L) and new coyote supercharged V8's. They definitely haven't been used for looks or especially sound, as they're more difficult to keep quite, which is extremely important when it comes down to complying with Australian Standards, so why use them?
The reasons why specifically, or why people even bother modifying anything before the intake valve, I've taken a quote from what I've written in another forum below (Q and A). Was written about a throttle body discussion but definitely still applicable here.
You can take what I've written with a grain of salt as we can be seen (understandably) as being biased, however I encourage people to do the following easy testing themselves“At the end of the day a engine can only consume as much air as it is capable of, having a bigger hole to let the air in doesn’t mean that it will be able to actually to consume more air.”
Volume flow rate is different to pressure. Meaning you can have the same volume flow rate but much higher pressure (the extreme case would be forced induction) which would relate to an increase in power, as it “crams” the additional oxygen in the cylinders. The same is true with naturally aspirated engines however they have only atmospheric pressure to play with (around 101.3kPa absolute pressure) therefore one of the ways to improve power in naturally aspirated vehicle is to reduce the pressure drop across the entire inlet tract (including throttle body). In the case of a boosted car it’s much easier to overcome this inherent pressure drop by simply running more boost.
As for reducing air speed in the inlet tract it’s not as bad as people make it out to be as slowing air speed does decrease the pressure drop across the induction system.
In saying this though if this was to occur around the injector/cylinder port area it’s not good, as it would result in poor fuel atomization, wet-walling etc. Anything before and I wouldn’t be worried to much about speed. It’s only when fuel is involved that speed is important. Speed is important in the intake manifold but that’s when you start playing around with runner diameter and lengths, to achieve desired savaging etc. Yes savaging does occur in the inlet tract but is quite weak relative to that occurs in the manifold itself.
Basically putting a larger throttle body is the same reason why larger inlet piping, higher flowing filter works!
For more info check out the following links
Boost Part 1
Boost Part 2
No need for techincal engineering calcs, all you need is a coke bottle, some clear tube and water to make yourself a manometer, plus a stop watch and a way you go.
CAI Mods Tested
Interesting as to see how they were able to achieve some significant results just by some mild tweaks
Cheers,
Steve
Last edited by MACE; 23-04-2011 at 01:14 PM.
MACE Engineering Group
www.maceengineering.com.au
Powering Australia's best Commodores
Find us on Facebook:
MaceEngineering
sooo thats a yes for the pod filter on the L67 or..??
If you properly design and make up a pod filter enclosure or get one off the shelf that is then it will work well, better then a panel filter setup in this application. Again we can be seen as being biased (understandably), however when you see the new FPV's run them (as shown in the previous pic) you have to ask yourself why?
MACE Engineering Group
www.maceengineering.com.au
Powering Australia's best Commodores
Find us on Facebook:
MaceEngineering
awesome as, cheers for that!
Just a question for MACE, does your pod filter and shield kit come with the piping? i couldn't see it specified..
You're probably best directing questions to MACE in their sponsor section.
cheers mate