I’m recently new to the forum and while I have had a quick search through the VY, Tuning and V8 Development threads and despite the fact that there is so much information available, I can't seem to find exactly what I am looking for in one place, so I am hoping this thread can become a ‘catch all’.
Think of this as a thread to condense as much information as possible regarding “best of, real life tuning & mod advise / experience” for the VY II Gen III V8 Commodores.
Have owned my VY II SV8 Commodore Auto (I know I know!! – it was either that or a V6 Manual at the time) for over 3 years now (purchased 2nd hand from an older gentlemen with low k’s on it) and I still love it. Never had an issue and still goes like stink when it has to. It just a fun car to drive.
Recently looked at trading it in but apart from the ‘new car’ appeal, there really isn’t anything wrong with it. So rather than send her out to pasture, I thought I’d look into getting some tune and mods done.
Again, I have never done this before, and while I realize this is probably a slightly selfish exercise I am keen to find out just what can be done with the Gen III V8 and peoples real life experience
What you have had done (power, induction, suspension, wheels, etc)
Wear and tear (coping with the increase in power/mods)
Warranty (ongoing issues)
Where you had it done and your level of satisfaction.
Prices, value for money
Obtaining prices and options directly from retailers /suppliers is one thing, but they are all done with a ‘sales approach’ – they don’t give you the 12 month update of things to watch out for.
Happy to have input on any mod / tune you have had done, as it will help to educate me (and possibly other members) on what can be done. The more info the better. Also, if this is a repost of if there is a similar thread, apologies in advance.
Any & all suggestions welcome.
On a side note, loving the forum.
Look for the above info for VT II through to VZ, not just VY. Essentially they're the 'same' engine. All this info can be found on here, you just need to try different key search words. No point linking threads as there's literally dozens of them.
VY Frequently Asked Questions
Chev badges are an instant fail
Thanks, will do
G'day Mate, had my VYIISS for 5 yrs now haven't done much to it except for a maffless tune, catback exhaust and changed on the front end bushes..
Best thing I did was tune defiantely picked up some power, plus we worked out that my throttle was only opening to 85% when I floored it.. My fuel economy went down as well on the highway best figures I've had were 8.8l per 100km.. Last year had to do 1700km round trip to Baliina and the ave for the whole trip was 9.5l per 100 km.. Had it done by OzTrack, was going to get a dyno tune but couldn't afford it and the Oztrack tune was $500 basically he plugs the laptop in and we drove around for an hours while he tuned it.
The only thing that I am not impressed with is the quality of the seat material I wore a hole in the seat bolster and my back seat a hole in it as well.
The rest of it car is great the only probs I've had is I had to change the ignition barrell and an oil pressure sensor.
I bascially threw the extended warranty out and take my car to a mechanic i trust the extended warranty is useless for major probs only covers the $1000 so I dont know anything about that.
G’day TI0350, thanks for your reply and information. It has been extremely handy.
Apologies for the delayed reply but I had some time away and then got back to do some serious research – d#mn there is a LOT of info on here and on the web for LS1 upgrades and mods to VY’s… almost don’t know where to begin.
I’m impressed with your fuel economy figures, as anyone with a Gen III can verify it’s a thirsty beast when it wants to be. Best I have ever had is high 10’s on the freeway after resetting the trip computer
Feel your pain about the seat material. I too have worn out a large hole in the seat bolster, look like a cow chewed threw it. Currently looking at getting a retrim done in leather – hopefully it turns out ok. Genuine parts for foam and material from Holden equate to approx $500+… the Leather refit should cost me approx $800… and that includes door & console trims so you can see why I’m going down this road.
Curious as to why you went with the front end bushes… just needing replacing?
The Tune is a definite must in my books, however I need to work out how to approach this as it appears its best to get most of the bolts on’s you want done before or with the tune, so that the tune takes advantage of the entire system.
When the tune goes in I am hoping to have the Standard / Economy mode to become my normal street use calibration and the Power Mode to be calibrated for “Play Time”
Thanks for the Oztrack referral – have checked them out and I think I’ll be deciding between them & Marranos when it finally comes down to the upgrades. Anyone else had any experience with these businesses? Recommend anyone else?
My car is a daily driver. I just want it to be more responsive when I need it, take off and launch quicker when it has to and overall handle & run like a dream. Personally I am not after any huge sound changes and power or torque figures, but if that’s where it takes me to get what I want, than that’s where it takes me J
From the research that I have done (nothing of which is concrete unfortunately), I have come up with a list of the following performance enhancements which fall under the following categories - must do, considering. Have already decided not to look at any Wide Mouth and/or Pod Style Cold Air Intakes, Turbo or Super Chargers at this stage
- Panel Filter
- PCM Tune (MAF or MAFless)
- Slotted Rotors & Brake Pads
Clutch / Fly Wheel / Torque Converter
- MCAI, OTRCAI, Moulded 4” Pipe
- Cam Shaft
- Valve Springs
- Diff Gears
- Transmission Enhancement Kit for the 4L60E
- Throttle body
- Sway Bars
- Lowered Suspension
- Depending on where the power/torque figures ends up, will also need to consider upgrades to the
Will Ignition Leads & Spark Plugs make any difference?
Now it’s just working out what order to do these all in
I second the tune through Oztrack, give steve a call, his mail order tunes a pretty well spot on the money.
Leaders in MAF/MAFLESS Tuning VT--VE Commodores & HSV | Oztrack Tuning | Australia - Home
Forget the panel filter and go straight for an over the radiator cold air intake, otr/cai with mafless tune, talk to steve.
I recommend going for a duspeed otr, have one fitted to my car and can't speak highly enough about Dus's product.
I had one of his mail order tunes fitted to my LS2 with a few bolt ons and then after a few months decided to get it dyno tuned by steve.
Well when we ran it up on the rollers the first pass was 285rwkw but then after steve worked his magic and a few dyno runs later out spat 289rwkw.
This was only a gain of 4 rwkw over his basic tune which shows how good his basic tunes are.
He has hundreds of tunes on file so I'm sure he'll find one to suit your car.
HSV VZ LS2 Senator,FE cam http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ados-blue.html
VS11 Berlina L67 super6 wagon 196rwkw. http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ified-cai.html
i agree go an otr forget about wasting money on hi flow filters in the factory airbox. also keep in mind most LS1's need upgraded valve springs with the tune as when they raise the factory rev limiter you will probably get some valve float.
Steve(oztrack) did my tune I live in the West but wanted a value for money tune done by someone who knows these engines. Steve knows his stuff and he also backs it when you get additional bolt ons at a later stage. I recently had fitted 4 into 1 long tube pacemakers and wanted a re edit to cater for them. No problem with Steve he helped me out with the tweaked tune and hopefully she will now go as good as she sounds he he he. You cant go wrong with Oztrack.
Got the bushes done because they needed replacing, In the beginning I was tossing up between oztrack & Marranos, but basically chose oztrack because of the price and everyone I spoke to who had a tune done by him couldn't say enough about how good the tune was..
When I can afford it I'm getting duspeed for my car at the moment I've just done the airbox mod..
I've just put my 2nd catback exhaust on not long ago as the 1st one rusted out (had it on for 4 yrs) not sure what brand the old one was but the new one is an x-force and yes it's a bit louder but sounds much better then the old cat back.
I am doing my upgrades in stages.
Stage 1 was ceramic coated extractors (I went with Tri-Y's but 4into1s work great too), high-flow cats, DuSpeed OTRCAI and mafless tune.
I kept the stock catback because it seemed logical to me that upgrading the components of the exhaust nearest the engine make the most difference. Plus I was after a result that was very streetable with good manners. It still made a difference to the noise, but it's only noticable above 2.5k RPM with some throttle.
For stage 2 I'm planning to do the catback (dual 2.5" or single 3.5", something not stupidly loud), and a diff ratio change, then going back to OzTrack for a touch-up tune.
If the power bug really bites you can look into a cam package. With the stock cam I don't think new valve springs are needed, but when going for a new cam it's advised. And cam specs are a whole new can of worms.
i went for a Oztrack tune with duspeed intake.Headers, cats and pipe, goes extremely well, not sure bout power figures, diff gears and a stally. Fuel economy isnt to bad, tyres seem to wear at a rapid pace though. Shoot for sumthing like that then go a big dirty cam or a blower. Im still deciding which way to go, unsure yet.
Thanks for the replies and feedback guys. Got me busy on more research.
On all the glowing recommendations I have been in touch with both Steve & Dus and have decided to go with Oztracks mafless tune & the Duspeed OTR.
Have also finally decided on an Exhaust setup - Tri-Y Headers (HPC coating if budget allows), High Flow Metal Cats, 2.5" Twin Stainless Steel Catback.
Decided on Tri-Y's rather than 4 into 1's as I want that responsive "off the line" power/torque in the low to mid range as my car is only used on the street and for me, acceleration is important.
Can't decide on brands though: Pacemaker, Redback, Xforce, KPM, Lukey, Sureflo, Supercat, etc etc etc
Any recommendations there?
Also spoke to Steve about a cam upgrade package (cam, dual springs kit, moly pushrods) with underdrive kit and I'm very interested
Just cant decide what order to do it all in though
Bang for your buck, OTR + Tune is a no brainer:
Stock cam with OTR & Mafless Tune is approx $1,200 = approx 40 rwkw OR works out to be approx $30 per 1rwkw
Cam upgrade package is $2,950 (before any tune - add $300 for retune if done afterwards) + 25% underdrive kit $400 = approx 35-40rwkw OR works out to be approx $85 per 1rwkw
[need to work out the exhaust and figures as well]
Will try to measure figures (rwkw / torque) before & after each mod to see exactly what it has created
Have also decided on 3.73 diff gears - now I just need to work out those details as well
Rotors & Pads are another matter - DBA seems to have what I want as far as the slotted rotters go and Red Stuff brake pads are on my wish list. I think they will both have me covered as I am having doubts about the RDA slotted rotors.
Again, any advice?
As far as lowering my suspension goes, I think the King Spring/GT Monroe combo SL kit will be my choice. I want the car just a little lower, nothing too dramatic and nothing to stiff, and as the SV8 already has FE2 suspension, the SL setup should only drop another 20-25mm or so (fingers crossed)
So, the to do list has been updated as follows:
- MAFless tune
- Diff Gears
- Slotted Rotors & Brake Pads
- Lowered Suspension
- Cam upgrade + underdrive
- Transmission Enhancement Kit for the 4L60E (things like shift kits, boost valves, trans cooler, band adjustment, increased line pressure, fully synthetic fluid, etc etc)
- Throttle body
- Sway Bars
- Stally - Torque Converter
- Ignition Leads & Spark Plugs
The research continues
P.S. Happy Easter all!
Ill post my 2 cents.
Ive got a manual VX SS. So same engine, different gearbox most of the stuff is pretty much the same.
Pretty much your first set of mods are Exhaust, Extractors, OTR and Tune.
The OTR and Tune is a huge difference, if not for the KW increase, the torque change is the thing you will notice. Now, with OTR's the downside is you will have to go mafless (AFAIK noone does Maf OTR's for the LS1, there are some for the VE though). Mafless is frowned upon by the Plod, I am a huge fan of the DuSpeed OTR (click my sig for pictures) they look flawless and appear stock to the average person. they are also great quality.
Depending on what you want to do later down the track, twin 2.5 inch exhaust and either Tri - Y or 4 into 1 extractors should be on your list, either before or after your tune. Now, do you want Tri - Y or 4 into 1's? 4 into 1's will give you higher top end power whereas Tri - Y's will give it to you down low.
After that it depends how deep your wallet is. I got 3.9 diff gears and thats a HUGE improvement and im currently saving for a cam.
But personally if you want to keep that "new car" feel do some cosmetic changes.
Lower it, get some new rims, I knew when I was looking at cars the SV8 seemed a bit bland, so chuck on an SS kit or something.
- Black Manual VX SS Series II -
Stealth Mode Activated
best bang for buck $$$
i had the above following upgrades and she pushed 372hp.
but if you have 25K laying around, cant go wrong with my new setup: Forged 383 stroker with Harrop HTV2300 blower!
want to see more then a typical commodore fitted with an exhuast, then check my thread out... link broken cuase i dont own a tuff car, i just made it up...
go heads and cam package ,auto needs attension for sure their not the strongest for giving a had time ,i sent my car to H.P.F in melbourne case they have a awsome rep.I got gs4 head and cam package ,trans toughened up, 3,500 stall ,mafless tune ,3.73 diff gears,twin di fillipo 3 inch system and a couple of other things done ......result was 298 rwkw which is good enough to see you in the 11,s down the quarter .