A couple of questions!

[Henrinsooki]

Hey guys

I just had my VY S 2004 in for a service and the following done:

- front swaybar link pin bushes
- inlet manifold gasket set
- rear shocks
- tappet cover gaskets
- fuel filter
- replaced fog light and headlight globe
- radiator flush and replacement of top and bottom hoses

So all in all a pretty expensive journey so far!

They now say I need my z bar bushes and engine mounts replaced and that my extension housing seal is leaking. And I also need new front tyres! It's getting expensive.

My questions are as follows:

- when calling for quotes on engine mounts I was advised that I should go for genuine Holden mounts as these are liquid filled and give off much less vibration than the solid rubber mounts. I then spoke with another mechanic who said that VY engine mounts have never been liquid filled and that even genuine Holden mounts are solid. I'm not sure who to believe! Can someone advise who is telling the truth and if in fact liquid filled mounts are better? And whether genuine mounts are worth the extra cash?

- any advise on z bar bushes? And should I get them put in prior to my wheels and get the tyre place to do an alignment or get tyres first then get the mechanic to align my wheels?

- I also noticed that after getting my radiator flushed my distance to empty gauge was completely incorrect and even after filling up it took a couple of 20 minute trips to read somewhat correctly again. Is this something I should be worried about? Ive owned the car for 5 years and it's never done this before. The normal gauge was fine btw.

- she also idols really rough. I can see the gauge drop a little and was wondering what could cause this? Could it be the spark plugs? Are these easy to change in a VY?

Any info would be great.
Sarah

[VYMAD]

Having your radiator flushed could cause DTE to change due to the fact that the engine idles during the flush and bleed for quite a while, making the computer think that it's using lots of fuel, as there are no k's being racked up, yet the engine is running.\nAs far as I know the genuine engine mounts have been oil filled since at least the VS Model.\nProbably get your Z bushes done, then tyres and alignment.
Rough idle may be plugs, leads, fuel filter. You need to check your service logs to see when they were all changed last.

[Fletch_QLD]

It's also possible the rough idle relates to the failed engine mounts ? But that would not effect rpm. Fuel filter and manifold gaskets just replaced - did this make any difference to your idle?

I understand you are spending money like crazy at the moment, but it'll be nice when it's all sorted! You do not want to be driving around with front tyres that need replacing, and you don't want to invest in new tyres and then wear them prematurely. You should definately get the bushes/alignment done before putting new tyres on.

I guess if you are really hard up you could put some second hand tyres on till you can afford the bushes?

[Henrinsooki]

Thanks for the advice so far... I put off doing all the work because of the cost but will be doing the tyres and bushes in the next week or so. I'm not really complaining about the cost as much as trying to work out what I need to spend in order not to be ripped off!

But the engine mounts and the leak will need to be saved for and so I'm putting them off at least until I sell my Fishtank and hopefully that brings in enough money to pay for them!

The idle got a little better after the work was done. The only reason the fuel filter was replaced was because we self serviced a few times ago and that was a bugger to get on so it ended up being taped into place. I guess I could just go buy spark plugs and leads and if I have trouble someone could help... I think it's been a while since they were replaced.

It is running a lot better since the work and I am planning on getting everything done. If anyone has any further experience with liquid vs solid engine mounts and the differences, including how the car feels on both, I'd love your input!

Thanks again
Sarah

[SavVYute]

I also noticed that after getting my radiator flushed my distance to empty gauge was completely incorrect and even after filling up it took a couple of 20 minute trips to read somewhat correctly again. Is this something I should be worried about? Ive owned the car for 5 years and it's never done this before. The normal gauge was fine btw.

They may have disconnected the battery for some reason during the radiator flush or service. That would be a reason for the incorrect readings for a while.

when calling for quotes on engine mounts I was advised that I should go for genuine Holden mounts as these are liquid filled and give off much less vibration than the solid rubber mounts. I then spoke with another mechanic who said that VY engine mounts have never been liquid filled and that even genuine Holden mounts are solid. I'm not sure who to believe! Can someone advise who is telling the truth and if in fact liquid filled mounts are better? And whether genuine mounts are worth the extra cash?

Genuine I think are filled with a liquid. Glycol from memory.

she also idols really rough. I can see the gauge drop a little and was wondering what could cause this? Could it be the spark plugs? Are these easy to change in a VY?

Can you explain the gauge dropping a little? Do you mean fuel guage?

[Henrinsooki]

No the rpm drops a little while idling. Was worse before the work but it still dips a tad, maybe 100 revs each drop but it annoys the hell out of me because the car runs beautifully otherwise!

They did disconnect the battery for the flush so that may be why the dte was incorrect. I was more worried about it constantly reading wrong and having the low fuel going off at me ALL THE TIME LOL!

Thanks
Sarah

[SavVYute]

If it was my car and I was on a tight budget I'd have the bushes replaced first with the new front tyres and alignment.

Then I'd have a go at the idle problem.
Your mechanic might have replaced the inlet manifold gaskets in an attempt to cure the rough idle, and if he's gone to that extent he most likely checked your plugs, leads, vacuum hoses etc. beforehand and did a diagnostics scan to rule out any faulty sensors.
Doesn't sound as if it was a complete success though and leads me to think you might have dirty or partially blocked fuel injector/s.

I wouldn't spend anything on the engine mounts until you've sorted the idle issue .... unless they're obviously split, leaking, or sagged.
Get the car running right and it could be the mounts weren't one of your problems.

Good luck Sarah.

[Henrinsooki]

Thanks.

All the work was done due to leaks, not because of rough idle. But I'll be doing bushes and tyres first anyway and then probably the other things listed. I believe they told me the mounts are gone as in the rubber is cracked so they definately need doing anyway.

Thanks again for the help.
Sarah

[Henrinsooki]

So, I'm going to ask once more about anyone who has had experience with solid engine mounts? Please give me a heads up about whether I'll be doing the right thing by going with them instead of liquid filled ones!

[VYMAD]

So, I'm going to ask once more about anyone who has had experience with solid engine mounts? Please give me a heads up about whether I'll be doing the right thing by going with them instead of liquid filled ones!

No I have no experience with the solid ones. It is, however commonly agreed apon that liquid filled engine mounts give a smoother feel from the engine, as liquid filled mounts absorb more vibration.
If the vibration doesn't bother you at all, then you could get the cheaper solid mounts, as they should last just as long as liquid filled ones.

[letthiswork1]

I'm putting them off at least until I sell my Fishtank and hopefully that brings in enough money to pay for them!

Must be a cool fishtank!!!!!!