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clutch problems???

surfindude

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hi everyone, i got a question for u all
i have been driving my car around today and it was running great. then came home for lunch and let it sit for about 3 hours then went to go into town again. pull onto the highway like i normally do 1st,2nd,3rd,4th then at 80kms went into 5th and nothing, it just slipps. tried going back a few gears and now slipping every gear as soon as i get over 2000rpm.
so question is what is it that has failed cyclinders or whole clutch.

no fluid leaks.
fluid replace 10,000kms ago
only got 84,000kms on clock.
the clutch dose fill a little bit lighter then normal now aswel.
so if anyone has got any ideas that would be great.
thanks heaps.
 

surfindude

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has anyone got anything to say.
this isnt like this forum, not to have any ideas
 

JMiller

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Well it sounds like your clutch is toast dude!! It is either that or some type of fliud (engine oil from the rear main seal) is leaking on it!! Since you said you aren't leaking an fluids??? a wornout clutch is my guess. If the slave cylinder is bad you won't be able to disengauge the clutch, as if you had the clutch OUT all the time!
I have 91,000km on mine and I have a feeling the clutch is on it way out? Not sure how many Km's most people get of a clutch on these cars but 80-90K seems very low to be losing a clutch!!!
 

surfindude

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bad news. ths clutch has gone.
good news. i can now get rid of that stupid dual mass flywheel and put in a solid item with a heavy duty clutch kit.
the question for all of you out there is
-what brands are good -- im looking at going with exedy???
-has anyone else gotten rid of the dual mass
-anyone know of a lightened flywheel that will go in this car and clutch kit to fit
thanks
 

nicco

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Hi guys,

I realise this is quite an old thread, but the OP describes very well the problem my brothers VY S has had.

We pulled the box out of it yesterday and found a few things and I have some questions.

Bit of background, the symptoms are as described by the OP, came on very quickly, clutch pedal slightly lighter, no clutch fluid leak, I did notice the rear main seal is a little bit damp, but doesn't appear to be pouring out, slips badly on even light throttle. I'm told it is also spitting him out of the higher gears if he can get all the way up to them, but I didn't get to replicate that for myself.

Car has done 115,000km odd.


1. The dual mass flywheel:
I have been told that if they have more than about 3 - 5mm movement when you are swinging off the pressure plate, then it is shagged. I struggled to get that much movement out of it. Is that the correct sign of shagged-ness?

I also noticed printed in big, bold, white print "Do Not Machine" on the flywheel. I, and I've told my brother this, would loathe to put a new clutch in without machining the flywheel, however, it's not my car, so I have a duty to find more info. ha ha. Do we realistically have to replace the flywheel regardless of whether it's shagged or not?

2. Random little brass thingy?
When we pulled the pressure plate and friction disc out, my brother grabbed a little brass thingy out of the centre, i didn't get to see exactly where it came from. It appears to have fractured around it's circumference, but I can't see a matching other half for it. There is a small amount of brass filings in the dust and grime in the area, but not enough to have ground the other half away. Pictures below

PC190505.jpg

PC190504.jpg

PC190503.jpg


Also, I noticed the car doesn't have a traditional, rolling element spigot bearing like I would have expected. Is this brass thingy the spigot bearing? Just a sliding element bearing? That's the only explanation I can come up with for it. :? It fits nicely over the end of the input shaft, so I'm assuming it is.

3. Pressure plate spring, prong, teethy things.
Sorry, I don't know the proper name for those bits. ha ha. The metal tangs that are radial and point inward. Those bits. What's their real name?

Anyway, to my actual question, lol. We found 2, maybe 3 of the tangs we bent inwards badly. I can't imagine that's going to help with the integrity of the clutch clamping. What would cause them to bend so significantly? Could this be the cause of the relatively sudden loss of friction? Bend a couple of tangs with a slightly worn friction disc and all of a sudden it doesn't hold anymore?

Pics:
PC190501.jpg

PC190500.jpg


4. Gearbox input shaft
The gearbox input shaft has a little bit of free play in it. about half to one mm of movement all around, no thrust though. Is this normal? I had a T5 from my falcon sitting outside the car and it was very similar as well, so not too concerned by this.



Other pictures:
Friction disc wear:
PC190498.jpg

PC190497.jpg


Flywheel surface:
PC190495.jpg



I didn't get a (non blurry) picture of the pressure plate friction surface, but it looks almost identical to the flywheel. A lot of that heat may have been generated during the slipping because of this failure.



I'm looking forward to getting some opinions.


Cheers guys,
Nic
 

GenReaper

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Yes that is the Spigot bearing.
Flywheel has been cooked big time.
Pressure plate is screwed yes thats why it has cooked itself.
Basicaly throw it all in the bin and start again.
They may be able to radial grind the flywheel thats if they can do it inside the recess.
Considering the clutch sits up on the dowel pins if you grind it , it may have too much clearance better ask about that.
Personaly i would be replacing the whole lot and see if you can get a spigot bearing and not a sleeve type bearing.
 

toey@carfx

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with the spogot in that condition just make sure the replacement one is a good fit on the input shaft. i had the spigot on my ss fail and it put some very very minor gaulding (grooves) on the input shaft. a very light rub with some emery paper cleaned it up and new bearing went fine on it
 

nicco

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Thanks for that info guys. Big help.

We will be grabbing a new clutch and flywheel assembly in the new year and get it in there.


With those spigot bushes, do they normally fail like that?



Also, is there anywhere on this site that I can easily grab a hold of the torque settings for the flywheel and clutch bolts?


Cheers,
Nic
 

nicco

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Hey guys, just chasing a little bit more help on this one. I've bought all new parts to put back in but I'm having trouble with the spigot bush.

The old one, as you can see in the first photo is tapered (right before it cracked the end off).
The new one is cylindrical over it's whole length, see second photo below.

PC190505.jpg

P1050518.jpg


Unfortunately, I can't seem to get it to go in. It's too tight. I've tried giving it a touch with the rubber mallet, but it is just trying to #### and jam. Holden has told me the part number of the new bush I've got is a new part number which superceeds the original. They can't tell me if the original part was tapered.


Does anyone know what I should be doing with this? Very frustrating to be getting stuck on something that should be so simple.

Either, Holdens catalogue is wrong (which I doubt) or maybe I just need to give this new bush the old don't argue.

Measurements (vernier calipers):
Original:
ID: 15.0mm
Shoulder OD: 27.0mm
Shaft OD (before taper): 20.88mm
Shaft OD (after taper): Unknown - not enough material to measure.

New:
ID: 15.0mm
Shoulder OD: 26.9mm
Shaft OD: 20.94mm

Crank:
ID: between 20.4 and 20.8mm Depending on the rotation I took it on. More likely to think this may just be due to the awkwardness of getting under the car to measure.



My conclusion after all this: Maybe I just need to give it the old don't argue and make it fit??



I definitely look forward to some opinions on this one!


Cheers,
Nic
 

nicco

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Okay guys, crisis averted!! :lol:

Ended up doing the "put the bush in the freezer" trick and it made *just* enough difference that I got it in. actually went pretty easily.


Going off that then, the taper on the old bush must have been wear? Can't imagine it was designed like that.



Thanks for the help anyway guys.


Nic.
 
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