Replacing front brake pads

[Jamkat]

I need to replace the front brake pads on my vy (Executive). Does anyone out there have step-to-step instructions in how to replace?

I am also interested in a recommendation of preferred brake pads to buy and thir cost.

[andyman]

most rotors will need to be machined when changing pads, even rotors that have worn evenly can make loud noises, and yes a couple of cars have returned because of this, the decision was made by my supervisor not me to not machine them

1, remove front wheels

2, undo the bottom bolt on the caliper so that the caliper can be pulled outwards and up, you will need a shifter or open ender to hold the nut on the inner side of it

3, slide out the old pads if it has backing plates transfer these to the new pads

4, replace with the new pads making sure you get them the right way around

5, grab a length of hose which fits firmly to the bleed nipple on the caliper, and loop the hose around the spring in the strut so the hose is higher then the caliper

6, place an old pad against the two pistons, open the bleed nipple and push the pistons all the way back,

7, close the nipple (dosnt have to all that tight)

8, apply some loctite to the bolt you removed

9, make sure the clip on the pad located to the outside of the caliper,

10, tighten the bolt up,

11, pump the brake pedal at half strokes until the the pedal goes hard

12, top up brake fluid if need be

13, replace wheels

14, go for a drive and make a few heavy rolling stops to bed the pads in, ie 80km/h to 50km/h etc (make sure no-one is around when you do it)




i must stress brakes are not for people who dont know what there doing, if you dont machine the rotors brake noise can occur and loss of brake effectiveness if the rotors are badly worn from the previous pads

[gslrallysport]

Originally Posted by Jamkat

I am also interested in a recommendation of preferred brake pads to buy and thir cost.

Hi mate,

If you're chasing performance orienatated pad (ie. better than stock) then these would be the go:
QFM HPX VT-VZ Police Spec Performance Brake Pads

Or if you're just after a replacement standard pad then QFM's normal pad is a low dust pad just like the HPX and only $35.

Cheers,
Greg

[immortality]

just a note of caution. if using the above procedure. ensure the hose that is used on the bleed nipple is facing up to prevent any air going back into the caliper. also ensure the bleed nipple is closed before removing the presure from the pistons

an alternate method is to just push the pistons back into the calipers without releasing the bleed nipple. just ensure there is enough spare capacity in the brake fluid reserviour before pushing pistons back in. if there is a lot of fluid there already, a old medical syringe is great for removing it without spilling any on the paint work

rotors shouldn't need to be machined unless they are bacdly grooved. just make sure you give the pads time to "bed in" before giving em a hard time. if rotors are badly worn, replacement is a better option then machining.

[DUK13Y]

immortality has it spot on. You do not need to touch the bleed nipple at all.

I would either recommend those police spec brakes or if just for general use then get some Bendix CT's. Both have relatively low brake dust and pull the car up nicely.

[andyman]

*****double*****

[andyman]

Originally Posted by DUK13Y

immortality has it spot on. You do not need to touch the bleed nipple at all.

I would either recommend those police spec brakes or if just for general use then get some Bendix CT's. Both have relatively low brake dust and pull the car up nicely.

Originally Posted by immortality

just a note of caution. if using the above procedure. ensure the hose that is used on the bleed nipple is facing up to prevent any air going back into the caliper. also ensure the bleed nipple is closed before removing the presure from the pistons

an alternate method is to just push the pistons back into the calipers without releasing the bleed nipple. just ensure there is enough spare capacity in the brake fluid reserviour before pushing pistons back in. if there is a lot of fluid there already, a old medical syringe is great for removing it without spilling any on the paint work

rotors shouldn't need to be machined unless they are bacdly grooved. just make sure you give the pads time to "bed in" before giving em a hard time. if rotors are badly worn, replacement is a better option then machining.

as i wrote in the other thread

in situations crap can build up in the pistons in the calipers, if you compress the piston the particles can be transfered through the lines back up into the master cylinder and abs system, which could cause blockages in the valves of the abs or cause damage to the cup seals in the master cyl.

of course this is a 'could happen' type of thing, but i crack the nipples at work all the time without any dramas thats of course if you know what your doing


when it comes down to it, everyone has different methods to doing procedures, this is how i do it, so thats how i wrote it,


ive now also edited my earlier post

[immortality]

Originally Posted by andyman

as i wrote in the other thread

in situations crap can build up in the pistons in the calipers, if you compress the piston the particles can be transfered through the lines back up into the master cylinder and abs system, which could cause blockages in the valves of the abs or cause damage to the cup seals in the master cyl.

of course this is a 'could happen' type of thing, but i crack the nipples at work all the time without any dramas thats of course if you know what your doing


when it comes down to it, everyone has different methods to doing procedures, this is how i do it, so thats how i wrote it,


ive now also edited my earlier post

i never said there was anything wrong with what you suggested, however a warning for first time mechanics is appropriate, especailly when it comes to brakes. it certainly would make changing to new fluid easier after repalcing pads.

i've always compressed the calipers without cracking the nipple and never had any issues. then again, if the brake fluid is that dirty a complete replacement would be the best option. not a bad idea to repalce the fluid when changing the pads anyways

[Shounak]

If you open up the nipple to compress the piston, wouldn't you then have to bleed to whole system? Ie. the two helper system with the open-push-close-release method until all the air is out of the system?

[batemada]

Here is a link to a page on the web that give you a step by step with pictures which may help.CHANGE BRAKE PADS YOURSELF

[Gudgeon]

9 times out of ten you don't need to bleed the brakes, but if you do, do all four starting from the furtherest away. also wen you push the piston back inside the caliper it's possible for the fluid to come out the top of the reservoir. braking is the most valuable part of the car so use good quality brake fluids too. for brake pads i opt for bendix advance but talk to your local parts dealer and sure they'll be able to get aftermarket one's to suit.

[Shounak]

Don't get me wrong, I've changed heaps of brake pads. Hell, I just changed a set 2 days ago.

I've never opened a bleeder valve to change pads in my life. I just remove the master cylinder cap and push (or screw) the pistons back in.

I'm questioning the act of opening the bleeder and not bleeding the whole system.