Replacing front brake pads

[Jamkat]

I need to replace the front brake pads on my vy (Executive). Does anyone out there have step-to-step instructions in how to replace?

I am also interested in a recommendation of preferred brake pads to buy and thir cost.

[andyman]

most rotors will need to be machined when changing pads, even rotors that have worn evenly can make loud noises, and yes a couple of cars have returned because of this, the decision was made by my supervisor not me to not machine them

1, remove front wheels

2, undo the bottom bolt on the caliper so that the caliper can be pulled outwards and up, you will need a shifter or open ender to hold the nut on the inner side of it

3, slide out the old pads if it has backing plates transfer these to the new pads

4, replace with the new pads making sure you get them the right way around

5, grab a length of hose which fits firmly to the bleed nipple on the caliper, and loop the hose around the spring in the strut so the hose is higher then the caliper

6, place an old pad against the two pistons, open the bleed nipple and push the pistons all the way back,

7, close the nipple (dosnt have to all that tight)

8, apply some loctite to the bolt you removed

9, make sure the clip on the pad located to the outside of the caliper,

10, tighten the bolt up,

11, pump the brake pedal at half strokes until the the pedal goes hard

12, top up brake fluid if need be

13, replace wheels

14, go for a drive and make a few heavy rolling stops to bed the pads in, ie 80km/h to 50km/h etc (make sure no-one is around when you do it)




i must stress brakes are not for people who dont know what there doing, if you dont machine the rotors brake noise can occur and loss of brake effectiveness if the rotors are badly worn from the previous pads

[gslrallysport]

I am also interested in a recommendation of preferred brake pads to buy and thir cost.

Hi mate,

If you're chasing performance orienatated pad (ie. better than stock) then these would be the go:
QFM HPX VT-VZ Police Spec Performance Brake Pads

Or if you're just after a replacement standard pad then QFM's normal pad is a low dust pad just like the HPX and only $35.

Cheers,
Greg

[immortality]

just a note of caution. if using the above procedure. ensure the hose that is used on the bleed nipple is facing up to prevent any air going back into the caliper. also ensure the bleed nipple is closed before removing the presure from the pistons

an alternate method is to just push the pistons back into the calipers without releasing the bleed nipple. just ensure there is enough spare capacity in the brake fluid reserviour before pushing pistons back in. if there is a lot of fluid there already, a old medical syringe is great for removing it without spilling any on the paint work

rotors shouldn't need to be machined unless they are bacdly grooved. just make sure you give the pads time to "bed in" before giving em a hard time. if rotors are badly worn, replacement is a better option then machining.

[DUK13Y]

immortality has it spot on. You do not need to touch the bleed nipple at all.

I would either recommend those police spec brakes or if just for general use then get some Bendix CT's. Both have relatively low brake dust and pull the car up nicely.

[andyman]

*****double*****

[andyman]

immortality has it spot on. You do not need to touch the bleed nipple at all.

I would either recommend those police spec brakes or if just for general use then get some Bendix CT's. Both have relatively low brake dust and pull the car up nicely.

just a note of caution. if using the above procedure. ensure the hose that is used on the bleed nipple is facing up to prevent any air going back into the caliper. also ensure the bleed nipple is closed before removing the presure from the pistons

an alternate method is to just push the pistons back into the calipers without releasing the bleed nipple. just ensure there is enough spare capacity in the brake fluid reserviour before pushing pistons back in. if there is a lot of fluid there already, a old medical syringe is great for removing it without spilling any on the paint work

rotors shouldn't need to be machined unless they are bacdly grooved. just make sure you give the pads time to "bed in" before giving em a hard time. if rotors are badly worn, replacement is a better option then machining.

as i wrote in the other thread

in situations crap can build up in the pistons in the calipers, if you compress the piston the particles can be transfered through the lines back up into the master cylinder and abs system, which could cause blockages in the valves of the abs or cause damage to the cup seals in the master cyl.

of course this is a 'could happen' type of thing, but i crack the nipples at work all the time without any dramas thats of course if you know what your doing


when it comes down to it, everyone has different methods to doing procedures, this is how i do it, so thats how i wrote it,


ive now also edited my earlier post

[immortality]

as i wrote in the other thread

in situations crap can build up in the pistons in the calipers, if you compress the piston the particles can be transfered through the lines back up into the master cylinder and abs system, which could cause blockages in the valves of the abs or cause damage to the cup seals in the master cyl.

of course this is a 'could happen' type of thing, but i crack the nipples at work all the time without any dramas thats of course if you know what your doing


when it comes down to it, everyone has different methods to doing procedures, this is how i do it, so thats how i wrote it,


ive now also edited my earlier post

i never said there was anything wrong with what you suggested, however a warning for first time mechanics is appropriate, especailly when it comes to brakes. it certainly would make changing to new fluid easier after repalcing pads.

i've always compressed the calipers without cracking the nipple and never had any issues. then again, if the brake fluid is that dirty a complete replacement would be the best option. not a bad idea to repalce the fluid when changing the pads anyways

[Shounak]

If you open up the nipple to compress the piston, wouldn't you then have to bleed to whole system? Ie. the two helper system with the open-push-close-release method until all the air is out of the system?

[batemada]

Here is a link to a page on the web that give you a step by step with pictures which may help.CHANGE BRAKE PADS YOURSELF

[Gudgeon]

9 times out of ten you don't need to bleed the brakes, but if you do, do all four starting from the furtherest away. also wen you push the piston back inside the caliper it's possible for the fluid to come out the top of the reservoir. braking is the most valuable part of the car so use good quality brake fluids too. for brake pads i opt for bendix advance but talk to your local parts dealer and sure they'll be able to get aftermarket one's to suit.

[Shounak]

Don't get me wrong, I've changed heaps of brake pads. Hell, I just changed a set 2 days ago.

I've never opened a bleeder valve to change pads in my life. I just remove the master cylinder cap and push (or screw) the pistons back in.

I'm questioning the act of opening the bleeder and not bleeding the whole system.

[Gudgeon]

Tha't's exactly right. If your gonna bleed the brakes.. do the lot. I always do

[andyman]

I'm questioning the act of opening the bleeder and not bleeding the whole system.

if you havnt done it you wont understand, but here are the most major pros for doing it,

1, make pushing piston back in easy as ****, can sometimes do it with you hands,

2, if you have stubborn twin or 4 pot calipers, allows you to push the piston back individually if needed, some calipers make it difficult to push 2 at once evenly,

3, if the master cylinder is at the full mark, it'll overflow, cracking the nipple eliminates brake fluid running down the paint work on the fire-wall, chassis rail etc, if not cleaned properly, especially if you have fussy customer any damaged paint that occurs can be quite costly to fix in small enterprises.

[Shounak]

Deary me, I'm feeling very misunderstood here. I understand the benefits of opening the bleeder. I know you'd be able to quite simply push the pistons right back in and it makes the whole process simple.

But if you do that, I would think that you should bleed all four brakes. Not just gives the brake pedal a few pumps as air can enter the system. That's where you bleed the system, with the open-push-close-release method.

On another topic, I've never found pistons that hard to push back. Of course they're often too hard to do with fingers, but I always just put the old pad over the pistons with a clamp. My first few times I put a rag around the master cylinder, but it's never leaked on me.

The piston compressing cube makes it much easier to do with a ratchet also. Only works on cars with indented rear pistons though.

[andyman]

shounak, sorry yes your earlier post was mis-understood, my apologies

[quote=Shounak;825360]. Not just gives the brake pedal a few pumps as air can enter the system. quote]


only once everything is put back together before you move the car, so it builds up the pressure and moves the pistons to where they should be, is that what you where refering to, just to clarify ?

getting confused yet haha

[Shounak]

That doesn't flush the air completely out of the system. You need to bleed the whole system, ie. start at the further wheel with a helper and pump away as per the standard bleeding procedure.

Otherwise it could lead to spongy brakes or the brakes failing when the hydraulic system gets an air bubble which prevents the piston from expanding.

Whilst it could possibly not lead to brake failure, it's not worth the risk. I would personally bleed the brakes if I ever opened a bleeder (letting air into the system).

[andyman]

That doesn't flush the air completely out of the system. You need to bleed the whole system, ie. start at the further wheel with a helper and pump away as per the standard bleeding procedure.

Otherwise it could lead to spongy brakes or the brakes failing when the hydraulic system gets an air bubble which prevents the piston from expanding.

Whilst it could possibly not lead to brake failure, it's not worth the risk. I would personally bleed the brakes if I ever opened a bleeder (letting air into the system).

i think you've missed something ive been saying, cracking the bleed nipple dosnt mean you need to bleed the system or it will get air into it, i cant be bothered explaining again but in my procedure as i written if done properly wont let air into the system,

but in saying that, yes i generally bleed/flush the fluid when i change pads


doctor bob, in your earlier post you mentioned you've never heard of a mechanic cracking the nipple for pads before, thats how they teach you at tafe now

[Sabbath']

doctor bob, in your earlier post you mentioned you've never heard of a mechanic cracking the nipple for pads before, thats how they teach you at tafe now

I never crack the nipple either. Get a pair of multi-grips and force the piston back, throw the new pads in, bolt it back up, top up any fluid if needed and you're away.


Havent bored myself in the brake room yet, but nobody in the workshop im in cracks the nipple either.

As for machining, only generally recommend it if the rotors have a bad lip on them, or are severely scored up.

[Shounak]

i think you've missed something ive been saying, cracking the bleed nipple dosnt mean you need to bleed the system or it will get air into it, i cant be bothered explaining again but in my procedure as i written if done properly wont let air into the system,

but in saying that, yes i generally bleed/flush the fluid when i change pads


doctor bob, in your earlier post you mentioned you've never heard of a mechanic cracking the nipple for pads before, thats how they teach you at tafe now

At very best you'd need to submerge the other end of the clear hose in some clean brake fluid to ensure that no air is sucked back in. Otherwise there is a pretty strong chance that air can enter the system and stuff something up.

Anyway, I've personally never found the need to open the bleeder valve, but if I did, I'd personally just bleed the whole system to be safe. I don't want to take any chances with my brakes.

To each their own.

[oztech007]

Forget about cracking the nipple. Leave it to the Professionals.
Just remove about 1/3 of the brake fluid from the reservoir with something that sucks out fluid. ie a Syringe.
Then Just simply remove the pads, Compress the Caliper Pistions in, and Put in the new pads.
Then you wont have any problems with fluid overflow. Simply top up the Reservoir as needed when finished the job.
Its too risky trying to Crack the Bleed nipple if your not experienced with this procedure.

[Benboy]

Take it to a workshop, pay the man the money and drive away knowing that your brakes will function and perhaps save a life in an emergency. Too risky to play around with if you don't have sufficient knowledge regarding correct procedures.

[Tom_1569]

**** me, didnt realise their were so many ways to change pads.
I dont crack the nipple, or remove any fluid (ok this is starting to sound sexual), just unbolt the hinge bolt thing, then remove the caliper. I found it easier to remvoe the hinge bolt thing before removing the caliper. Remove caliper take old pads out, use one of the old ones and a g-clamp to push the piston/s back in. Either put new pads in and attach caliper, or attach caliper and put new pads in either way works. After each side i pump the pedal to get the fluid back, and help prevent rhe reservoir from over flowing.
If the reservoir spills, so be it, CLEAN IT UP, its not hard. and no i dont remove the reservoir cap either.

[Tom_1569]

Take it to a workshop, pay the man the money and drive away knowing that your brakes will function and perhaps save a life in an emergency. Too risky to play around with if you don't have sufficient knowledge regarding correct procedures.

I will actually agree with that. Im all for doing stuff at home and not paying someone (tightass) but I really think brakes are something you need someone to physically show you before you go doing it on your own.

[batemada]

I have just changed the ones on the front of my car this afternoon and i have to say it is one of the easyest things i have done on my car. all i did was remove some of the fluid in the resoviour before i started and just took my time. in total it cost me nz$56 to change both front pads where my local garage wanted arround $200 and my local stealership wanted arround $400 to do exactly the same work. my front rotors didnt need work though as they were only just replaced when i bought the car 25000+kms ago.