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Thread: Wheel Bearings

  1. #1
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    Default Wheel Bearings

    Hi all
    Need help please.
    The wheel bearings of the front left of my VY needs replacing. Any ideas how much I'm looking at to part with?
    Also, the radiator has a leak and have to carry a can of coolant in the boot to top up very often. Can it be fixed or do I need a new radiator?
    All suggestions very welcome!!

    Thanks guys
    Borrow money from a Pessimist-They DON'T expect it back!

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    andyman's Avatar
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    generally for the price to fix radiator is more worth while buying a brand newy

    the wheel bearing is a costly little setup as the whole hub and abs sensor needs to get replaced - it one complete unit


    EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009

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    Quote Originally Posted by andyman View Post
    generally for the price to fix radiator is more worth while buying a brand newy

    the wheel bearing is a costly little setup as the whole hub and abs sensor needs to get replaced - it one complete unit


    : ((
    It never rains but it pours!!
    And the rego is due in a couple of weeks. They seem to come all at once!
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    Quote Originally Posted by jyothi View Post
    : ((
    It never rains but it pours!!
    And the rego is due in a couple of weeks. They seem to come all at once!
    your telling me

    i have/had to faulk out for, 3 licences, rego and greenslip for my bike, a couple of parts for it, some new moto gear, birthday presents, then in a couple of months ive got rego, insurance and greenslip for my car


    sigh, it never ends, and its getting more expensive $105 for green p's now


    EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by Commydoor
    First of all your words cannot harm me cause my ego is like a shield of steel.

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    Are you sure the bearing is stuffed? They are a pretty heavy duty item. I had a VR which had a very similar design and it was running the original bearings on both front wheels at 335k when I sold it.

    pj

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    it sucks, im trying to run two cars on a second year apprentice wage. hopefully the ute is going so i only have to contend with running one money guzzler....

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    Quote Originally Posted by VYII BERLINA View Post
    Are you sure the bearing is stuffed? They are a pretty heavy duty item. I had a VR which had a very similar design and it was running the original bearings on both front wheels at 335k when I sold it.

    pj
    agreed is it noisy? the movement isnt in ball joints?


    EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by Commydoor
    First of all your words cannot harm me cause my ego is like a shield of steel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VYII BERLINA View Post
    Are you sure the bearing is stuffed? They are a pretty heavy duty item. I had a VR which had a very similar design and it was running the original bearings on both front wheels at 335k when I sold it.

    pj
    Yeah, that was what the mechanic said. I had the brakes done a couple of months ago, but there was a constant scruffing noise and when I took it back to him, he said I need new bearings on the left side.
    Borrow money from a Pessimist-They DON'T expect it back!

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    Quote Originally Posted by andyman View Post
    agreed is it noisy? the movement isnt in ball joints?
    I'm not very knowldgeable mechanically. I have to go by what the mechanic said. He said he'll do it for around $350 when I rang him a little bit earlier.
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    Before you lash out replacing expensive items that might be ok, try the following tests.

    1. Jack the vehicle so that both front wheels are clear of the deck and remove them both.
    2. Remove calipers, and pads from both sides . The calipers can be undone at the ower end only, swung up to clear the pads and allow their removal, then lowered back into place. Make sure they dont strike the discs.
    3. Spin the suspect disc and hub and then the other side. Is there any difference in drag between the two wheels. Does the suss disc and hub feel rough, or make any noise that the good side doesn't?
    3. Grab the disc on both sides and attempt to "rock" them on the axle. This means trying to push and pull on opposite sides as if you were trying to work the hub off the axle. Is there any difference in the amount of movement you can get from the "bad" side and the good side?

    On the VT site, faulty front bearings were an issue which had an affect on braking, cauising shudder like a warped disc. Did you have this problem before speaking to the mechanic? I don't know if the bearing problem was cured prior to VY, but as I said earlier, my VR front hubs gave no problems at all and they were really high mileage when I sold it.

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    350 sounds about right. have put a couple of them in not 2 complicated u could do it yourself and save some $ tho

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    Quote Originally Posted by VYII BERLINA View Post
    Before you lash out replacing expensive items that might be ok, try the following tests.

    1. Jack the vehicle so that both front wheels are clear of the deck and remove them both.
    2. Remove calipers, and pads from both sides . The calipers can be undone at the ower end only, swung up to clear the pads and allow their removal, then lowered back into place. Make sure they dont strike the discs.
    3. Spin the suspect disc and hub and then the other side. Is there any difference in drag between the two wheels. Does the suss disc and hub feel rough, or make any noise that the good side doesn't?
    3. Grab the disc on both sides and attempt to "rock" them on the axle. This means trying to push and pull on opposite sides as if you were trying to work the hub off the axle. Is there any difference in the amount of movement you can get from the "bad" side and the good side?

    On the VT site, faulty front bearings were an issue which had an affect on braking, cauising shudder like a warped disc. Did you have this problem before speaking to the mechanic? I don't know if the bearing problem was cured prior to VY, but as I said earlier, my VR front hubs gave no problems at all and they were really high mileage when I sold it.

    theres a flaw in your how to, which is the fact that the disc are floating, as in they dont bolt into anything, so if you rock the disc as its written you'll **** yourself with movement thinking its a bearing,

    you can easily check without removing the wheel,

    jack the car up,
    chuck a stand under the chassis
    grab the tyre top and bottom and side to side, rock it and see if it has movement
    is there any play?

    also, grab a decent length bar and lever on the lower ball joint and see if it has any play which could cause movement in the tyre,

    its unlikely a ball joint would be stuffed but check it,

    if a wheel bearing is gone you would also hear whirring sound from it


    EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by Commydoor
    First of all your words cannot harm me cause my ego is like a shield of steel.

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    A wheel bearing makes a groaning noise as you drive they are noticable from 50kms to 80kms.Two ways to check is to jack the car up front or rear and spin the wheels if you cannot hear it groan,try to drive the car on an old road or somewhere there isnt much traffic and have a speed of 60kmph and swerve left to right if you hear it groan louder when you swerve to the right the left wheel bearing is noisey and if you swerve to the left the right one is noisey,easy way to determine which side.But then to determine if it is the front or rear you would have to listen very carefully whilst road testing or maybe hear it when you jack up the car.$350 sound alright,they are a dear wheel bearing assembly.As for your radiator replace it with a new item.
    (KRUPTOR)VN BT1 5L TTB's,MANUAL,LSD

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    Quote Originally Posted by andyman View Post
    theres a flaw in your how to, which is the fact that the disc are floating, as in they dont bolt into anything, so if you rock the disc as its written you'll **** yourself with movement thinking its a bearing,

    you can easily check without removing the wheel,

    jack the car up,
    chuck a stand under the chassis
    grab the tyre top and bottom and side to side, rock it and see if it has movement
    is there any play?

    also, grab a decent length bar and lever on the lower ball joint and see if it has any play which could cause movement in the tyre,

    its unlikely a ball joint would be stuffed but check it,

    if a wheel bearing is gone you would also hear whirring sound from it
    Andyman

    I haven't had to replace the discs on my VY (yet) and was thinking of the set-up with my VR, which had a small countersunk screw securing the disc to the hub. I thought the VY had the same set up.

    However, even if the screw isn't used on the VY, there's a good chance that the disc has "welded" itself to the hub with corrosion and my method would still be ok. Getting the disc to unstick can be a pain at times, I recall.

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    Wow, you lot are very smart. I'll try the them all (easiest one to start with!!)
    Thank you all for taking time to reply.

    Cheers
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    Quote Originally Posted by VYII BERLINA View Post
    Andyman

    I haven't had to replace the discs on my VY (yet) and was thinking of the set-up with my VR, which had a small countersunk screw securing the disc to the hub. I thought the VY had the same set up.

    However, even if the screw isn't used on the VY, there's a good chance that the disc has "welded" itself to the hub with corrosion and my method would still be ok. Getting the disc to unstick can be a pain at times, I recall.
    yeah no worries, i didnt intend to make you sound wrong or anything just pointed out something that wouldnt work on this vehicle,

    luckily though the disc shouldnt rust or seize up on these later cars as the discs sit quite freely, so it make it easier,


    EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by Commydoor
    First of all your words cannot harm me cause my ego is like a shield of steel.

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