Speakers 6" or 6" 1/2

[ozzie_online88]

Hey lads,

Anyone know what size speakers are in the doors of a VY S1 Exec? Straight swap for after market ones?

Looking at getting these..

Front: Sony 16CM COMPONENT SPEAKERS XSGTX1620S
# Peak Power (W): 260W
# Rated Power (W): 60W
# Frequency Response (Hz): 40-22K
# Sensitivity (dB/W/m): 88±2dB

Rear: 16CM 4-WAY GTX SPEAKER XSGTX1640
# Peak power: 300W
# Rated power: 75W
# Frequency response: 30-27KHz
# Sensitivity: 89dB/W/m

what cha recon? Going to be running of 2008 model clarion dvd player. 50 x 4.

[stoged]

Hey lads,

Anyone know what size speakers are in the doors of a VY S1 Exec? Straight swap for after market ones?

6" is standard for commodore but 6.5" is not hard to fit.. if they don't already. Mine fit fine but i had to drill new holes, i've heard of people having to cut the socket a tad wider but. Doesn't seem to hard

[Lumps of cheese]

Go 6 x 9's in the parcel shelf instead of the doors, better result imo.

[adamc11]

As Juzo said, get 6x9's in the rear parcel shelf. You will get much better sound from the 6x9's.
For speakers, not sure of your budget, but i'd recommend some front JL audio splits and rear JL audio 6x9's.

[stoged]

Yeah 6.9" are great if your not gonna use a sub.

But personally i plan on having 2 x 12" subs in the boot. No need for the bass from 6.9"s i'd rather go a set of coax 6.5" for the clarity and let the subs take over for the bass. that with a set of 6" splits at the front. nice even sound through the entire car.

[trentvy]

as opposed to post jacking yes mate your 6.5 inchs will fit ull just need to drill new holes. i shoved some 210 watt speakers in all 4 doors and they fit no dramas. accually really happy with them. soon to be amps, subs and 6x9s when the wallet permits.

[adamc11]

Yeah 6.9" are great if your not gonna use a sub.

But personally i plan on having 2 x 12" subs in the boot. No need for the bass from 6.9"s i'd rather go a set of coax 6.5" for the clarity and let the subs take over for the bass. that with a set of 6" splits at the front. nice even sound through the entire car.

BUT the 6x9's are in the parcel shelf, the 6/6.5's are in the rear door, down the bottom near you feet. You will get better sound from mounting 6x9's in the parcel shelf, because they are in a better position.

[ozzie_online88]

ok thanks for all the info. I am picking up my 6.5" speakers this weekend.

Wheres the best spot to mount the front x-overs?

FYI I went 6.5" 4ways in the rear doors as i have a 12" sub going in

[adamc11]

Mate go 6x9's... the rear door speakers are in a **** spot and it'll just ruin your sound. 6x9's give off good bass but not a whole lot anyway. I have rear 6x9's and i still need a sub if i want good bass.

Front x-overs i didn't mount anywhere... i just pushed them down behind the piece of plastic that sits between the floor and bottom of the dash.... bit hard to explain... its the bit of plastic that is on both the passenger and drivers sides.

[f1tzy]

My x-overs are mounted with double sided tape up and under the dash. Makes them easy to get access to

[Lumps of cheese]

Mine are in the kick panels.

[ozzie_online88]

Does anybody know if there is a hole in the dash to mount the tweeters under those grills by the front window on the edge? Hard to do?

[1991_Vn2nV]

You should perhaps look at amping the speakers up as well, otherwise they'll be be getting around 23 wrms watts from the headunit (50x4 is peak rating), and the speakers could take tripled that. Just a cheap 4 channel 60x4 or something.

[adamc11]

Does anybody know if there is a hole in the dash to mount the tweeters under those grills by the front window on the edge? Hard to do?

Easy as to swap over the tweeters.
Basically the grill over the tweeter that you can see is part of the thin panel that runs along under the windscreen. Since you have 2 grills (left and right) you have 2 panels, which join together in the centre of the windscreen. Now at the end of these panels (so at the left and right of the dash), near your doors, there is 1 screw that you undo which holds the panel in place. Once this screw is removed, you have to yank the panel upwards so that all the clips holding it in come undone. Once that is done, you will see the tweeter. Simply unscrew the mount the tweeter is on from the car, then unscrew the tweeter from the mount, then put your new tweeter on the mount (to do this, you will need to use some parts that came with the new tweeters... you will understand what i mean when you see it, as the stock tweeter has a screw through it to hold it to the mount, and obviously you don't want to put a screw straight through your new tweeter!... you will understand what i mean when you see it). Then screw the mount back in to the car. Put it all back together and thats it. Also, i used the existing tweeter wire for my new tweeters, too hard to run new stuff up to the tweeter.

[vnv8driver]

a 6 inch speaker is physically just as big as a 6.5 inch, they will both fit in the shelf..

I dont know why im hearing 6x9 is better if your not getting a sub, if your not getting a sub go 6 inches as they handle bass better than 6x9's.

[ozzie_online88]

Thanks Adam i am half was through it all now. If I wish to use the existing tweeter wires where do they lead back to? :|

[Lumps of cheese]

You won't need to use the factory wires, just run new ones back to your xover from the tweeter.

[ozzie_online88]

I will extend the tweeter wires and do it that way then. Can I use the original wiring to the 6" woofer in the door pod? Or do I need to add my own wiring through the door-through loom-xover?

[adamc11]

I used new wire for everything except for the tweeter. For the tweeter i conneceted my tweeter wire to the existing wire that was there (can't remember where the exisitng wire ran too, head unit i think)... then i added some wire onto the end of the tweeter wire to extend it so it woud read the cross over. So was like this:

TWEETER --- EXISTING TWEETER WIRE --- SOME EXTREA WIRE EXTENSION --- X-OVER

I think thats how i did it. Saved me running wire up though the dash to the tweeter.

I would try and run new wire to every speaker (except for tweeter). This way if you amp it later you'll have some decent wire, the stock stuff is very very thin.

[ozzie_online88]

How hard is going to be to add new wires from the door speaker to the car? I have not done this before.

[adamc11]

How hard is going to be to add new wires from the door speaker to the car? I have not done this before.

Its not too hard... you have to run it through the rubber booting between your door and the car. It makes it easier if you unclip the rubber booting from the car and the door, then push the speaker wire through it using a screwdriver or pen, as it is harder to di with your finger.