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Thread: Cleaning Products

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    Default Cleaning Products

    hey guys, i just got a black Vy calais
    i was just wondering what use think r the best cleaning products for interior and exterior, like leather protector n all that jazz
    cheers

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    depends on how much you want to spend

    i use all maguires stuff its good and not to badly priced then theres the dear stuff like zano and what not

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    I use a high pressure water system to get rid of all the loose dust and dirt first. Then I use Meguiars 'Gold Class' for the wash. Then Meguiars 'Ultimate Quik Detailer'. After that I use Meguiars 'Wet Look' polish if needed and turtle wax rub on wax to seal. That's the paint done.

    I use Armor All 'Tyre Foam' and 'Wheel Cleaner' for the wheels.

    For the interior I just give it a good vacuum and then use Armour All 'Original Protectant' on the dash and doors. I don't have leather so can't help you there.

    Comes up great every time.

    Meguiars gold class = $15
    Meguiars ultimate quik detailer = $20
    Meguiars wet look polish = $15-20 I think
    Turtle Wax = $15
    Armour All tyre foam = $10
    Armour All wheel Cleaner = $12
    Armour All original protectant = $10
    R/O Polisher = $150
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUK13Y View Post
    I use a high pressure water system to get rid of all the loose dust and dirt first. Then I use Meguiars 'Gold Class' for the wash. Then Meguiars 'Ultimate Quik Detailer'. After that I use Meguiars 'Wet Look' polish if needed and turtle wax rub on wax to seal. That's the paint done.
    Generally a good regime, but are you aware that you're doing some of this in the wrong order?

    UQD is a last step product, intended to get rid of light dirt and contamination in between washes and also "boost" the wax in between waxes. It should go more like:
    - wash
    - polish
    - wax
    - UQD as required in between wax jobs.

    You could do better than the Turtle wax too. IMO Meguiars NXT or NXT 2.0 wax is the best for durability and Meguiars Gold Class wax is the best for shine.

    BTW I don't want to turn this into a product bashing thread, cos at the end of the day its all quite subjective and what works best for you and what you perceive to be a good result.
    Quote Originally Posted by CSP (aka Rufys) View Post
    Look, all the update is going to be is like going from VX to VY or VY to VZ. Same car with different front/rear ends and updated interior. But it will be the VF, not the VE II.
    ^^ ^^


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    Quote Originally Posted by DUK13Y View Post
    I use a high pressure water system to get rid of all the loose dust and dirt first. Then I use Meguiars 'Gold Class' for the wash. Then Meguiars 'Ultimate Quik Detailer'. After that I use Meguiars 'Wet Look' polish if needed and turtle wax rub on wax to seal. That's the paint done.

    I use Armor All 'Tyre Foam' and 'Wheel Cleaner' for the wheels.

    For the interior I just give it a good vacuum and then use Armour All 'Original Protectant' on the dash and doors. I don't have leather so can't help you there.

    Comes up great every time.

    Meguiars gold class = $15
    Meguiars ultimate quik detailer = $20
    Meguiars wet look polish = $15-20 I think
    Turtle Wax = $15
    Armour All tyre foam = $10
    Armour All wheel Cleaner = $12
    Armour All original protectant = $10
    R/O Polisher = $150
    wow.... wanna detail my car

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    Quote Originally Posted by davey g-force View Post
    Generally a good regime, but are you aware that you're doing some of this in the wrong order?

    UQD is a last step product, intended to get rid of light dirt and contamination in between washes and also "boost" the wax in between waxes. It should go more like:
    - wash
    - polish
    - wax
    - UQD as required in between wax jobs.
    Thanks for the correct order. Good thing I haven't used the UQD yet because of the unreliable weather.

    Quote Originally Posted by trentvy View Post
    wow.... wanna detail my car
    Comment removed, this is unfair to current paying sponsors
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    Quote Originally Posted by davey g-force View Post
    Meguiars Gold Class wax is the best for shine.
    The gold class did not do too much for me...... Like it is good, dunno maybe hard to please.

    Still thank f**k its not cold. had to buf my car 4 times for the bloody wax to dry and finally be buffed off.....

    I can feel the deep burn coming this weekend!

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    Really it all depends on your budget, skill, knowledge and what you hope to achieve. Threads like this should be added to the 'Detailing tips' thread in the General section.
    Car theives should be treated just like horse theives and cattle rustlers in the days of the wild west... Hang them!


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    Can i get someones opinion on this detailing regime?

    1 Wash car with meguiars gold class
    2 Allow car to dry
    3 Clay Bar with meguiars quik clay
    4 wash car again
    5 buff car with orbital sander (with foam pad) and meguiars cutting compound
    6 apply wax with orbital sander
    7 apply polish with orbital sander

    anyone know what kind of result i can expect with that process?

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    Quote Originally Posted by VYsam View Post
    Can i get someones opinion on this detailing regime?

    1 Wash car with meguiars gold class
    2 Allow car to dry
    3 Clay Bar with meguiars quik clay
    4 wash car again
    5 buff car with orbital sander (with foam pad) and meguiars cutting compound
    6 apply wax with orbital sander
    7 apply polish with orbital sander

    anyone know what kind of result i can expect with that process?
    Process looks good but you should dry the car with a waffle weave drying towel. If you allow it to dry naturally you risk water spotting. Also you polish for paint correction so no need to do it every time you wax. I tend to do a coat of wax about once a month. Only takes about 15 minutes to lay down a coat of P21S or OCW.
    Waxing should be the last step process so don't wax after you've polished. Also apply wax with an application pad or with your hands, not with an orbital.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garfa View Post
    The gold class did not do too much for me...... Like it is good, dunno maybe hard to please.

    Still thank f**k its not cold. had to buf my car 4 times for the bloody wax to dry and finally be buffed off.....

    I can feel the deep burn coming this weekend!
    All Meguiars waxes are supposed to be left to dry BEFORE you buff them off.

    Apply wax to the whole car then let it dry for at least half an hour (depending on weather/humidity etc). You can tell the wax is dry by doing the Swipe Test. A few times, I have applied the wax of an evening and then buffed it off the next morning, with great results. This was all done in the garage of course, to stop any dust etc settling on the wax and then inducing scratches later.

    You say it wasn't cold when you did it - that indicates to me you may have applied too much wax. It's best to apply a very thin film of wax - pretty much as thin as you can get it. Excess wax only gets buffed off anyway to leave a microscopically thin layer behind, so thick applications of wax will only create more work.

    Anyway, hope that helps for next time!
    Quote Originally Posted by CSP (aka Rufys) View Post
    Look, all the update is going to be is like going from VX to VY or VY to VZ. Same car with different front/rear ends and updated interior. But it will be the VF, not the VE II.
    ^^ ^^


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    Quote Originally Posted by VYsam View Post
    Can i get someones opinion on this detailing regime?

    1 Wash car with meguiars gold class
    2 Allow car to dry
    3 Clay Bar with meguiars quik clay
    4 wash car again
    5 buff car with orbital sander (with foam pad) and meguiars cutting compound
    6 apply wax with orbital sander
    7 apply polish with orbital sander

    anyone know what kind of result i can expect with that process?
    Probably more swirls and holograms than what you started with. Cutting compound with an orbital is an aggressive process and will only marr the paint unless you really know what you're doing.

    Is there any need to go that aggressive? What kind of condition is the paint in? What colour are you working on? Single stage or clear coat paint?

    ...Oh, and as mentioned, wax should be your last step after cleaning / polishing the paint.
    Quote Originally Posted by CSP (aka Rufys) View Post
    Look, all the update is going to be is like going from VX to VY or VY to VZ. Same car with different front/rear ends and updated interior. But it will be the VF, not the VE II.
    ^^ ^^


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    Quote Originally Posted by davey g-force View Post
    Probably more swirls and holograms than what you started with. Cutting compound with an orbital is an aggressive process and will only marr the paint unless you really know what you're doing.

    Is there any need to go that aggressive? What kind of condition is the paint in? What colour are you working on? Single stage or clear coat paint?

    ...Oh, and as mentioned, wax should be your last step after cleaning / polishing the paint.
    Paint condition is good, albeit lots of swirls.

    Colour is White, no clearcoat

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    Hey guys sorry to interrupt but i just bought a 1997 VS Ute and well the bonnet and roof have been resprayed due to the previous fussy owner which i expect had started loosing their clear cost. Just curious how long does clear coat with botanic mica colour take to cure/set as the other day my dad and i were vacuuming it and well before we knew it the vacuum hose has rubbed on the paint and left some rub type marks? Not scratches just rub marks which don't wash out
    I am unsure when it had been resprayed in those areas but i feel sure it would have been at least a couple of months. What can i do to toughen up the paint as it seems to be very soft as in i could scratch it with my fingernail. Is there any special products to toughen it up or any type of product that can repair the rub damage? Eg. car cleaning products like wax/polish etc?
    Last of all what causes this or is this how all metallic paint is? Or didn't the resprayed clear coat stick/set well?
    I haven't ever owned a metallic coloured car so any tips would be great on how to look after it and stop/fix any blemishes etc. Overall the paint is in great condition except the clear coat being quite soft.

    Thanks
    Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by davey g-force View Post
    Probably more swirls and holograms than what you started with. Cutting compound with an orbital is an aggressive process and will only marr the paint unless you really know what you're doing.

    Is there any need to go that aggressive? What kind of condition is the paint in? What colour are you working on? Single stage or clear coat paint?

    ...Oh, and as mentioned, wax should be your last step after cleaning / polishing the paint.
    Not true. An orbital sander with a quality buffing pad is pretty safe. You wont cause any marring or holograms. But don't touch a rotary polisher unless you have experience. You can do more with a rotary than an orbital but you can also do more harm that good if you have no idea.

    Every time I do a proper detail I get out the orbital and a white Lake Country pad with Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze. Comes up so good I don't bother with a pure polish anymore. It's classed as a 'cleaner/polish' anyway.

    VYsam, can you give us a list of products you're using including what orbital, pads, product etc...?
    Car theives should be treated just like horse theives and cattle rustlers in the days of the wild west... Hang them!


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    hey joker, i think the best thing you can do is park your car in the sun and hope the heat bakes the paint for you

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooter79 View Post
    Not true. An orbital sander with a quality buffing pad is pretty safe. You wont cause any marring or holograms. But don't touch a rotary polisher unless you have experience. You can do more with a rotary than an orbital but you can also do more harm that good if you have no idea.

    Every time I do a proper detail I get out the orbital and a white Lake Country pad with Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze. Comes up so good I don't bother with a pure polish anymore. It's classed as a 'cleaner/polish' anyway.

    VYsam, can you give us a list of products you're using including what orbital, pads, product etc...?
    Havent done any detailing yet mate, im probs gonna start detailing the VY after i finish my TEE, i just have no time atm.

    if you can recommend any products, by all means post em up mate.

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    I have a black VY and I use Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax.
    This stuff really bring the Black up to a nice glossy finish.
    I couldn't believe it after I had actually used it how much better the car looked.
    Also the Meguiars Scratch X works a treat too, for the fine scratches and swirl marks.
    Nothing beats Meguiars products
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    There was also a good thread in the VZ section a while ago on this
    Detailing & Polishing your VZ
    some good info and tips in there.
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenacc View Post
    hey joker, i think the best thing you can do is park your car in the sun and hope the heat bakes the paint for you
    Any more info by chance on what has caused this or anything else i can do?

    Anyone got any more idea's? As each day the car does sit in the sun whilst at school.

    Thanks
    Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooter79 View Post
    Not true. An orbital sander with a quality buffing pad is pretty safe. You wont cause any marring or holograms. But don't touch a rotary polisher unless you have experience. You can do more with a rotary than an orbital but you can also do more harm that good if you have no idea.
    Oops, my bad I mis-read his post.
    I thought he was using a rotary. Yes, what you're saying is right.

    VYSam, try using Meguiars Scratch X to get rid of your swirls. Failing that, I would try Meguiars M105 Ultra Cut Compound, which is a bit more aggresive. Then top that with a layer of quality wax.
    Quote Originally Posted by CSP (aka Rufys) View Post
    Look, all the update is going to be is like going from VX to VY or VY to VZ. Same car with different front/rear ends and updated interior. But it will be the VF, not the VE II.
    ^^ ^^


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    Quote Originally Posted by davey g-force View Post
    Oops, my bad I mis-read his post.
    I thought he was using a rotary. Yes, what you're saying is right.

    VYSam, try using Meguiars Scratch X to get rid of your swirls. Failing that, I would try Meguiars M105 Ultra Cut Compound, which is a bit more aggresive. Then top that with a layer of quality wax.
    You cant do a whole car in scratch X tho can you?

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    Sure you can - if the swirls and scratches are all over the car. Hard work by hand but you're using a machine...
    Quote Originally Posted by CSP (aka Rufys) View Post
    Look, all the update is going to be is like going from VX to VY or VY to VZ. Same car with different front/rear ends and updated interior. But it will be the VF, not the VE II.
    ^^ ^^


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