Hey Guys,
I've done a search but couldnt find anything. Mayb i didnt search correctly. I just did an oil change on my VY SS. I used Mobile Super 1000 15w 40 and shes running poorly. Shes going tap tap tap and is chewing through the fuel. But she luvd the oil changed. I've been recommended to try Penrite HPR15 15w 40 . Anybody used it before?
Search google:
ls1 what engine oil site:forums.justcommodores.com.au - Google Search
Some of the results from the google search:
Oil issues ls1
mobil1 0w-40w for ls1?
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cheers mate
i use castrol edge 5w30, going to switch to 10w60 the new edge formula as its now done 170k, but as long as its full synthetic should be ok, been told not to use a 0w40 as the 0 is too thin on gen3's.
Ok is this the point that I jump in and say edge is not 'full synthetic', or do I keep my mouth shut........
isn't edge ment to be a full synthetic? thats what it says on the bottle, if its not then thats miss leading and i'm going to have to ring castrol and complain bout it being miss leading advertising and that its caused damage to my engine cause of this mis leading in advertisment on there bottles.
lol, yeh i know, it says that its a full synthetic, so why would they say that and its not, i say its good, had no problems with my gen3, actually got rid of some off my rattles.
Car theives should be treated just like horse theives and cattle rustlers in the days of the wild west... Hang them!
Don't be stupid. Power isn't measured by the size of your tacho
I dont know about a group III synthetic not being able to go to w60- maybe but I just havent heard of it.
Castrol argued successfully in court to be able to market their mineral as synthetic. Mobil were the biggest voice in opposition. Most synthetics are infact mineral. There are only a few companies that market synthetic as synthetic, not mineral as synthetic.
oh ok, farenough, yeh i'll have to read into it
dont touch penrite
it doesnt have detergent in it so it sludges the motor
I use castrol edge 25/50
10/60 good as well
cheers GM
Sorry if I'm reviving an old thread, but would you recommend that oil (edge 25/50) for 5.7ltr 2002 v2 monaro with 110,000 k's on it and no mods.
I'm a car noob and am wanting to take a more hands on approach with my baby.
Also, I know this is a "just commodores" forum , so sorry if I don't have the right car to hang.
Thanks GMMAD. I bought some edge 25/50 today, but they only had one 5ltr bottle of it left so the guy at the store said that it would mix ok with a little bit ( the last 700ml) of edge 5w-30. Hopefully he new what he was talking about cos I have no clue what I'm doing when it comes to oils.
Ps, what have you done to your vxss to pull 12 seconds. And do you have any suggestions for an easy starting mod for me to cut my teeth on.
i just buy 2 5L bottles and the second one will do you for a few oil changes
I have all bolt ons and a cam
first mod I would do is
full exhaust
4 into 1 headers
high flow cats
and twin 2.5" exhaust or if you plan to get serious go twin 3"
then a OTR and mafless tune
that will give you a nice gain
you should see around 230rwkw
cheers GM
seen it with my own eyes mate
and how many engines have you pulled down after using ether oils?none I would guess
difference is I dont read about it like you I have seen it
and my mechanic(sonny@maranos) has told me a few story's of it happening as well
and a fare few guys off LS1.com have had the same problem
and I would trust Sonny advise
do a search and you will find it is a common problem with penrite oils
cheers GM
Since you asked i have pulled down lots of engines, I worked in an engine shop for 2 years, dunno what oils people were using tho.
the question was how do you know Penrite has no detergents ? I am not loyal to any brand of oil, but i just filled it up with Penrite for the first time last weekend. If i see some proof they don't use detergents i won't use it again.
If you check out the oil poll on here Penrite is the 2nd most popular oil. Thats a lot of sludgy motors.
If you change your oil regularly like you are supposed to like every 5000kms you shouldn't need detergent in your oil to stop sludging.
If you get sludge you are either using crap oil or not changing oil as often.
I have heard of people using Castrol oil and engines sludging up using that oil.
So what do you do?
Yours Kindly,
Jim
Greenacc, don't worry, Penrite do use heaps of detergents, no wonder it stinks. Most people cannot back up claims so i wouldn't take any notice of it.
I wouldn't use the Edge 25W50 as its only SG rated. What this means to me personally is yes it may only meet that due to high additives, but it also means it doesn't need to pass the lower wear rates that SL( i think around 100+ppm of iron) and SM (60-80ppm of iron) P.S i need to clarify these.
If you want a performance oil with heaps of additives, easily available go the Valvoline Vr1 racing. Its SJ so still a current oil spec, (covers VT-VX, check for VY). There's also Mobil Delvac MX 15W40 which is one of the best oils. You would match it against any oil on the market for performance, wear protection and longevity.
I would use the Castrol Edge 10W60 as i have spoken and regularly hear what he has to say on another forum from someone who was involved in the development of Edge 10W60.
Also i would never mix oils that much especially if paid good money for it as it weakens the oil, but still safe to use for a short change. 5W30 Castrol just too thin to use. Mobil 1 3000x2 5W40 or Shell Helix Ultra, are they way to go. Can both be had for $50. Valvoline Synpower which i am currently using and will can be had in 5W40 or 10W50(what i have now) for $45 at most United Servos. If you want to go a real true blue synthetic, then Motul 5W40 MOTUL is the way to go for around $60. Then there's the Amsoil range, Penrite Sin, Mobil 1. These are the Group 4 PAO synthetics. Redline Motul 300V, some Mobil 1 are the GRoup 5 Ester base, truly the best oil but too expensive.
Group 3 versus Group 4. On paper, Group 4 is better when blended as a whole oil with the additives. PAO is not naturally lubricating, its benefits lie what what a synthetic does best. Stability under load at extreme temps, and control(stay in spec) at extreme hot or cold. Also being 100% pure it can be used longer. Group 3 hydrocracked, is refined mineral oil at 99% purity etc. It is called synthetic as in comparison it is equal and sometimes beats a PAO group 4 in some oil tests. I prefer Group 3 oil for my car as it has Seal compatibility which a PAO does not have. It has esters added to treat the seals. Also it cost much cheaper, paying $45-55 for Valvoline, Mobil 3000, Penrite Synth Everyday, Shell Helix Ultra at Big W etc. The others rip you off.
A well made Mineral oil(Group 1 and 2) and a Synthetic oil with the same rating good add pack etc, will be more or less equal during the first 5000k's. After that it all changes. With GRoup 1 being only around 80% pure, it has a tendency to break down quicker, and the 20% that is not refined(aromatics) and clean it what causes sludge if left in for too long. This is why its used in blends(bulking) or with heaps of additives as its cheap, sold at a premium. SO the cheaper group 1 oils are good to use for 5000 as long as they are SL/SM rated. Group 2, 2+ for 7000k's and especially group 3 up to 10,000k's.
The freaks of nature oils are Delo 400 and Delvac MX in my opinion. THey are just so well built and developed from a additives point, that by using combinations of the lower group 1 and 2 are able to achieve same results as Synthetic in most areas, hence being marketed as ISOSYN (Caltex/Havoline Delo 400 multigrade).
Sonny@marranos uses and told me to use edge 25/50 so that is good enough or me
when you have more experience then him I will take your advice over his
Australian LS1 and Holden Forums - View Single Post - Dr Sonny CAM install Here we go!
Australian LS1 and Holden Forums - View Single Post - Dr Sonny CAM install Here we go!
cheers GM