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Thread: diff removal diy

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    Default diff removal diy

    iv tried doing a search but could not find anything, maybe my crap computer skills..
    was wondering has anyone removed there diff centre out there and is it a complicated process?

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    Diff in what? Going by your ride im assuming the VY ute..... which is IRS.
    Jack the car up, undo both drive shafts, which will have 6 hex head bolts on each end, take the drive shafts out.
    There will be 4 awkward bolts holding the diff from the top, which are tricky to get, and then there will be a few bolts where the diff mount is, you will need something to hold it up once you start undo'ing the mounting bolts obviously

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    Hmmmmm, not sure mate, i dont play around with the internals i let the pro's do that, i would think its a lot easier to do internals with the diff out of the car anyway
    Also forgot to mention you obviously have to drop the tail shaft off the end of the diff

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    i just put 393 minispooled diff in my car, i was lucky at the time because the boss of the shop was looking for a single spinner diff and he put mine in for free if i gave him the diff, normally it costs around 150-200 bucks to get it done and they do these jobs all the time so very minimal chance of *** ups

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    vt1538 is offline 455rwhp LS3
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    Quote Originally Posted by vyss300kwute View Post
    anychance that you can just remove the centre without a full removal?
    I know that Brad at Enhanced Automotive does ratio changes in car all the time. I did mine out of the car as I was using a different centre so I could keep the old one for a later upgrade.
    As long as you have a dial indicator on a magnetic base, a tool for unscrewing the bearing carriers, bearing blue or an equivalent marking paste and an understanding of crownwheel or pinion shifts on wipe area they are an easy diff to change ratios in.(any old Haynes or Gregories manual will have this info in it)
    Just remember to mark where everything came from & also mark the position of the carrier bearing nuts in relation to housing to ease reassembly.
    Resetting the carrier bearing preload if new bearings are used(or you forgot to mark there position) is also easily achieved by setting the backlash to zero with no bearing endfloat. Then tightening the correct bearing carrier until .006" backlash is present.
    This resulted in a very quiet running diff for me but I am not 100% sure on the factory specs.

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