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Thread: Vy Cooling Flush

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    Default Vy Cooling Flush

    Hi guys I want do it this weekend I read the thread about flushing but want to ask a couple of questions.With the Vy v6 do you have to bleed them from the vlave and when do you do it and how??.Normally I use to just open the bottom pipes in my old cars and flush the radiator out.As for coolant what is good to use as I do not like the factory holden one ??.Many thanks.

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    I use one that specifies "suitable for v-series commodores", last one from repco i think. It's a 50-50 water mix, just read instructions. I drop all old coolant and flush with water, afterwards reconnect hoses but leave off the top hose on the end that attaches to the radiator. Then fill with clean water till over flowing, start engine with heater on and keep a hose of water running into your radiator cap hole, eventually it will spit water out the top hose (look out it gets hot-aim away from yourself and the paintwork etc!) then turn off engine drain all water and reconnect hoses, fill with the coolant-water mix using a funnel or bottle that fits snugly into your radiator hole to prevent air getting in, keeping the coolant level above the height of the radiator until you can't get any more in. Start the engine and keep doing this until overflowing and there's a bleed valve on top of engine where i think the thermostat is, run engine until all the air has escaped and only coolant is coming out of the bleed valve then tighten it. Also syphon your overflow res. and fill it to the required level too. Mine says it takes 12 litres but im lucky to get half that amount in I've been told theres a way to drain the block but stuffed if i know how. I have noticed a slight "pinging" noise which lasts about a week I think it's just the coolant wearing off the fan belt. Obviously check your levels in the raddy and overflow res each day for a few days to make sure there's no leaks and that all the air is out. Hope this helps, maybe someone knows a better way?

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    Tiger28, just a word with the above method, it's also recommended to throw in some "Radiator Stop Leak" (what mechanic shops call neutralizing the system). That stuff is like rat pellets in an oily substance. If the coolant doesn't have a certain property (can't remember the name off the top of my head) the coolant can actually start eating through the aluminium parts, and VERY quickly!

    With your overflow reservoir, it might just be easier to take off the neck and undo the screws underneath and clean it out properly... flush it with water a few times.

    Also, just for people that read this, on the V6's there is just one bleed screw, however with the Supercharged engines there is 3 bleed screws over the engine. I have posted the correct procedure for supercharged vehicles too, so if you are wondering, search of pm me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by alien View Post
    Tiger28, just a word with the above method, it's also recommended to throw in some "Radiator Stop Leak" (what mechanic shops call neutralizing the system). That stuff is like rat pellets in an oily substance.

    That stuff also coats the entire system, including inside the radiator tubes, reducing the efficiency of the cooling system.
    Take it from someone who has had to clean this shit out and just use the manufactures recommended coolant to protect the system.

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    Yeah i've never bothered with the pellets, been told by many that they're a load of rubbish!

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    They are rubbish, unless you get crap coolant! If you get crap coolant then its great, stops doing damage inside the cooling system. I've seen many people who used crap coolant in a backyard job and have then had to fork out more than $1k to get their head gasket redone and heads machined. And all because the coolant didn't have everything they needed. The pellets may have reduced the efficiency (yet in a normal daily drivers car they wont notice) but have saved them all that work, and a few days without the vehicle.

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    Thanks guys.Yeah my overflow box was pretty dirty oily and mucky so i kept overflowing it out .Just wondering people tell me to bleed it from the valve and some say dont what is the real reason and why?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger28 View Post
    Thanks guys.Yeah my overflow box was pretty dirty oily and mucky so i kept overflowing it out .Just wondering people tell me to bleed it from the valve and some say dont what is the real reason and why?
    you need to start the engine for a bit, top up the level when it drops, put the cap on when it dosnt take anymore water, let it build up a bit of pressure then crack the bleed nippl, slightly, you will hear the air escape, keep doing this until coolant comes out of the bleeder,


    those genuine holden pellets are are broken up walnut shells, they are there to keep the water pump seals and other components clean and ensure a long life, this is what causes the brown sludge build up in the overflow resivour, think of it this way, if holden has it there in the first place, it meant to be there for a reason,

    also alien, putting stop leak in is a little reckless unless you have a small leak that cant get fixed immeditly, barsleak adds sludge through the system to blocks small cracks/leaks, holden pellets break down and turn into tiny abrasive particles,

    stop leak will not prevent electroloisis (<the word you were thinking of) the only reason for electrolis to occur is if there is a problem with the engine/body earth, if electrolis occurs, it from a poor earth, ie, the electricity then trys to earth through the coolant


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    should a vy v6 be running green or red coolant?
    I know my bosses VY gen 3 runs red but unsure if the v6s do. There is no signs of colouration at all i can see.

    I know it needs to be glycol based.

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    green generally


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    Quote Originally Posted by Commydoor
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    thanks, looks like the previous owner may have been found of water

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