check powertrain message
hey guys, today i installed a pod filter on my commodore, removing the stock airbox. at this point i removed the wire that connects to the hosing, i think its like a temp sensor. i had forgotten and i started the car, n it suffered n turned off. i hooked it backup to stock airbox, then i went for a drive, n the car turned off as i was driving and steering locked. now i keep getting a message on the lcd saying check powertrain, n the engine feels like its not revvving to what it should be.
but tonight as i was driving home, the message went away. a friend of mine told me it happened to their car as well, n the mechanic said itll eventually go away.
is this true? or should i get holden to look at it?
sounds like you disconnected the MAF sensor which measures the amount of air coming into the engine. Once you disconnect this the ECU won't get any reading and the car will stall.
check the connection and spray it with some contact cleaner to make sure it's still giving an accurate reading. disconnect your battery and reset the ecu and see if that solves the problem.
actually the car should be able to run alright without the maf you will get a check engine light from removing the maf though. might be another issue.
Youve tripped an error code by running the engine with the MAF (airflow meter) sensor unplugged, basically its static till it gets cleared and in some instances it can trigger the computer to run the engine in a reduced performance "limp mode", going by your locality id suggest you pop into Castle Hill Exhaust and get the code cleared.
Hey mate, I'm pretty sure the car won't run without a MAF unless you have a mafless tune. We'll thats the case on my stock VZ SV6...Originally Posted by monaro327
Yeah your on the money there Matt, MAF's have an important role in manipulating the injector pulses based on metered airflow. unless you rule out the MAF values in the tune and tune it to rely on manifold pressure and rpm, youll be lucky to start the engine let alone run the engine.
arh must be a vz thing, the VE's will start and run fine without the maf connected. i've seen people do it plenty of times by mistake when installing air hammers. the ve's have a map sensor so that the car can still run fine without the maf all it means is you loose esp.
vz SV6 ute
my vz ran without the maf sensor plugged in because i forgot to plug it back it.
getting conflicting stories here. from my own experience and what i've seen posted in the forums the alloytec should run fine without a maf. by run fine i mean will bne driveable. hell even my old VL you could drive without the maf just had a rev limit of 2000rpm from memory.
The Only 6sp VZ Wagon
if the dude fitted the air hammer, then just connected the maf sensor without it piped up to the motor, of coyrse it will run worse because its getting a reading, but not registering air flow, you'd be better of running without it plugged in...
that what i understood he done
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
1 hour later, i started it up and it went away. :S
weiirrrddd
Two things do this...........
1. MAF disconnected, some VZ's run fine without it.......... some immediately die. Not sure why, but even on mine I cant dial the VE in so that it runs without the MAF. Eventually I'll find out why but for now, mine is in the conking out VZ line of them.
2. You have a blockage or for a better word when your driving around the air cuts for just a second and the MAF is reading no air and immediately will kill the car as the air/fuel etc is thrown out enough to stop the engine.
As long as you've used the stock pipe from the intake pendulim, with the idle bypass valve on it, then the maf.......... then your pod filter off one of your own pipes about say... hmm atleast 10-15cm past the end of the MAF.......... it should run fine.
I've stuffed around many a time with pods........ and also those turbo fans in the intake. It's no diff if u put a turbo fan after the maf not infront of it.......... it'll kill the car when driving, before it.......... if it's too close the fan fin will line up eventually with the maf's sensor wire............ no air, dead in the water.
Make sure your pod is big enough to support the engine as well, little pods will sufficate it.
Best one I found was a fairly small K&N Pod that would fit inside my airbox......... and I gutted it inside a bit and the bracket on the outside of the top where the maf normally screws to so I could fit my pipe into it.......... that way u got ur pod, plus it's in a sealed box getting cold air. That worked fine for me.
I took it out eventually and just got a standard K&N stock replacement filter and another stock airbox with the 2 hole mod.
Personally I would love to find like the pipes similar to the SS Inductions system. Intake pendulim corner silcon peice, that goes to a 90mm pipe, that connects to the maf, then off that to a big pod. Tis hard to find a decent setup for the VZ without paying $500.
PS. You could also try drilling a 5mm hole in the middle of the end of the pod to help idle air......... it'll richen out the fuel a bit tho. If it doesn't fix it you just get a plastic plug from Supercheap or something n put back in to plug the hole.
Last edited by bigdaddycool; 16-08-2009 at 11:11 AM.
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2009 VE SS SILVER SEDAN - Twin Amps... Tune in progress (more for response and power) then outright KW on a dyno
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ok fair enough, im thinking of going up to a cold air intake instead as its more stable from what ive understood on the forum compared to a cheap pod filter. so well see what happens
ok ive purchased the mace cold air intake and installed it, still same problem. the car dies when started and you smell strong petrol
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