hey guys was just wondering how to stop axle tramp
any help would b great thanx
I second this question. I have a seriously bad case of it......... Mine's more self inflicted due to pushing the Optimal Torque, VE and Spark Tables........ and now i'm moving to the Variable Cam Phasing it's only gunna get worse. I've backed right off my tune because it'll break something.
My thoughts are better diff........ but it's odd because V8's make alot more power and dont stuffer this problem?
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2009 VE SS SILVER SEDAN - Twin Amps... Tune in progress (more for response and power) then outright KW on a dyno
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rear shocks stuffed, rear diff housing bush has play in it, there the main two that comes to mind,
nolathane has a bush that fits into the rear diff mount to make it more rigid, apparently thats a point of inducing tramp
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Originally Posted by Commydoor
might be worthy checking your rear tailshaft rubber coupling too.. How much play should there be in the diff andyman, i know a little is un avoidable but how much is too much?
Life starts at 200km/h
A mate of mine gets it fairly bad in his brand new VE SV6 Ute so his shocks/bushes ect couldnt be worn or damaged surely? Unless the holden items are all that good?
Alrighty I took mine down to Pedders today to find out whats up with mine........specifically to do with the rear it came down to:
2 bushes for the rear suspension, 2 rear gas shockies, Urethane Various Bush and a wheel alignment.
That was specifically for the rear only.
I asked them about my rear diff mount which I felt needed doing they said that it's really irrelevant because the diff which mounts onto the main suspension side of it, what happens is the two main bushes wear and the whole suspension frame moves (forget the name of it) ......... causing the diff to move itself with it a bit.
On my car I have to replace two front rear bushes for the front steering as well, total quote $890.
I'll be getting it done soon, but they recon that's basically go for the axle trunk side of things.
PS. Their report shows I have worn X Member Mounts specifically for the rear.
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2009 VE SS SILVER SEDAN - Twin Amps... Tune in progress (more for response and power) then outright KW on a dyno
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yeh i think i need to do something like that its not to bad now but its getting worst so yeh
thanx for ya help
bigdaddycool you were takin bout cam phasing wats that bout
the rear diff mount is obviously a rubber bush in a bush, so youu get a lil bit, the nolathane insert is a bush that pushes into the rear mount, it dosnt replace it, just firms the stock one up
if traction control kicks in, yes its the same effect as axle tramp, try it without esp on
well pedders is pretty stupid then, the rear diff mount is important because it hold the rear in end up in the car, if the rear bush in the diff mount flex's or is cracked, it will cause the rear cross member to move around and vibrate, generally under high load, so accellerating, hence causing the vibration
lowered cars with small springs and rooted shocks will also cause this, mainly becasue when you lower the car the angle of the cv shafts change, so with big power, they can slightly lever themself from the angle and cause the vibration, utes are worst
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Originally Posted by Commydoor
I got the said Nolathane/red ranger diff insert bush and the Pedders Axle tramp bushes, The tramp bushes stiffened up the sub frame which you can feel but it didn't do anything for my axle tramp...
I can't spin the wheels in a straight line without the whole car vibrating and banging, go sideways and it doesn't do it at all... I got a locker in mine which is what caused the tramping in the first place.
My next step is going to be the harrop sports diff cover then down the line change the rear shocks and or springs to firm it up and see what that does.
I've got one of those diff inserts, they firm up the drive line a bit.
The good part is the car feels more responsive because when you get the power on it doesn't have to take up the slack in the diff bush, it just powers on, the bad part is a little more noise in the cabin and it's a little harsher.
It didn't really solve my clunking either, I think I have too much lash in the gears which is going to need some specialist work to remedy. Does anyone know if adjusting the pre-load can solve ye olde Commodore diff clunk?
DANJA'S CLEAROUT 2010 : Various VT-VZ parts, short shifters, performance parts. Check it out!
Originally Posted by Reaper
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Originally Posted by Commydoor
DANJA'S CLEAROUT 2010 : Various VT-VZ parts, short shifters, performance parts. Check it out!
Originally Posted by Reaper
i keep getting told the harrop diff cover makes a world of difference along with the nolathane bushes. Is wat i will be tryn neway
worn tyres will also make tramp bad - when i replaced the tyres on my old car it completely went away. but then again, the tyres on my calais are fair rooted and they don't skip at all, and the rear suspension is completely shagged!!!
alternatively, stop doing skids...
hi i just read the first few posts vn-vz rear end irs cradle bushes and diffmount shocks just mask the prob
ve rear cradle bush inserts
this will stop tramp as much as you can
note vn-vz cradle bushes have a extra optional spacer from nolathane and or pedders to stop tramp
btw i work for pedders
axle tramp? could someone just explain what this is? or is there another thread on this?
it is when you try to take off or do a burnout and the wheels bounce up and down
my mates vr ute gets it real bad
right o. just had a read elsewhere then. i've only ever had it happen in the wet when i give it too much turning a corner. i suppose the lack of weight over the rear axle (being a ute) doesnt help either...
feels similar to traction control kicking in right?