Just wondering if anyone has relocated there IAT sensor (part of maf) and installed an extension or rewired it to a better location such as front grille. I have been told that this will improve my mafless tune (NO otr), so as to stop high readings that are inflated by heatsoak in the maf.
No, it needs to be in the air stream that is going into the engine. Put it as close as possible to the throttle body. Having it in cooler air will give incorrect signals to the PCM.
I have been told by Oztrack to relocate sensor to the grille area, as the IAT is severely affected by heatsoak in the MAF. The air apparently moves so quick through the intake system that it does not get the chance to heat up much. Because the IAT is severley affected by heatsoak the temperature reading does not reflect the actual temperature of the air going in. Just wondering about peoples experiences, of how their cars ran after moving it?
Different people have different ideas. The tuners over here say to keep the sensor in the intake as that is what it is supposed to measure, the temperature of the air entering the intake, not ambient or cold air.
But the VZ has the sensor in the actual MAF doesn't it. You can move the sensor further out into the stream of air so it can get a better reading.
wadevzss seriously mate I would not advise moving it........... if your that concious about mis-reads........ spent $1k and get you some VCM Suite and adjust the intel axes temps......... to compensate.
Generally tho 'you are wrong' ........ moving it wont help because the Intake Pendulim (which sits on the engine) acts like an oven for the air coming in anyway....... = hot air. the IAT sensor must sit where it is for a reason so your car can measure things correctly....... otherwise what you'll find is it'll actually make your car slower..... Why?
Because your car will think the air is colder then what it is (after going thru the tb etc and heating up before it gets to the combustion champer) ......... so what will happen is the car will add more spark, but because the air/fuel temps etc are wrong........... ur car will then knock, then knock will reduce your spark = slow car, hotter engine.
........... true changes must be made only on the computer, not by just randomly moving stuff around. Have a bit more faith in the people that 'built' the car.
************************************************** *************************************
2009 VE SS SILVER SEDAN - Twin Amps... Tune in progress (more for response and power) then outright KW on a dyno
************************************************** *************************************