How to service VZ ute?

[Burto89]

Hello,

If this has been covered please send me that way.

Im after a full list of things that are checked/changed during a full service.

EG spark plugs, oil, oi filter, fuel filter etc etc

Also if i could get a write up on things like draining the oil, fuel filter, oil filter. Brake pads. Diff oil and any other major things.

Im handy with a set of spanners just I dont have alot of experience with the new VZ's

Cheers

[Veriton]

Well when I service vehicles I first go over the vehicle in full to ascertain what is in need of replacing. Check the condition of the engine belts
Check spark plug condition (i usually don't knwo when they've been replaced, but you might)
Check condition of air filter
Check fuel filter vs kms it's done
Check coolants (is it dirty, rusted, too pale?)
Check exhaust system and mounting rubbers
Check suspension and shocks for leaks, tightness
Check brake pads
Check steering components for tightness/leaks
Depending on K's, check wheel bearings
Rotate tyres/check condition
Check handbrake movement (does it need tightening?)
Check for oil leaks
Check transmisison, leaks/full of fluid)
Check diff fluid condition/level
Replace oil and filter, how dirty is the oil vs when it was replaced
Replace components that were deemed needed replacing
Check interior lights, seatbelts (for fraying)
Check exterior lights

This is all off the top of my head, so if I've missed anything sorry . I do services in robot mode, it's all just automated for me .

As for draining oil, from cold, let the engine run for about 60sec, to allow the fluid to warm up (not become hot) and run out of the engine better. Once warmed, release the filler cap, then drop the oil out, then remove the oil filter. When placing the new oil filter onto the engine, ensure the oring has oil all over it (new preferably) to allow it to seal correctly, dry orings won't properly seal.

With diff fluid, you will have two big bolts, one center diff and one at the bottom, the bottom is the drainer, the top is filler/level indication (the fluid should just start dribbling out the filler hole which in turn indicates it's full).

Brake pads - remove wheel, under caliper bolts (usually 17-18mm), ensure the caliper can sit somwhere that's not resting on it's own line or ABS sensors. push back pads with screwdriver (made easier with G clamps or caliper retractors). Depending when rotor was changed, they're usually only 45-50 bucks each (chuck a couple or all in, but make sure you remove the fish oil off the new rotors with thinners or something equivalent), make sure no grease goes onto the pads THIS IS IMPORTANT. After vehicle is done, EASE!!!!!! the brake pedal down several times until it starts to grab properly (doing it fast can send brake pads in crooked), then be careful with driving distance and braking over the next 1000KMS as pads propperly bed back in.

Good luck if there's anything I've missed let me know.

[derrro]

Hey Veriton, thanks for that post! Any idea on how to remove belts and refit? I am installing a new AC compressor on my VZ V8 L76.

[Veriton]

The v8's have two different belts, ones that runs just the compressor, the other that runs everyhing else. In order to remove the a/c belt, you'll first need to remove the main drive belt. TO go this the main belt should have a "spring-tensioned" pulley up the top of the engine, simply grab a spanner (14mm for memory) and place it on the center bolt (center of the pulley itself) and rotate it counter clock wise(for memory), then when the belt is loose remove if off the alternator pulley and carefully rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise until it stops (don't just let go as it will obviously snap back). If the pulley doesn't budge try clockwise rotation, don't force it if it doesn't wanna budge.

After the main belt is off, the next one is a little easier, but takes longer to do. The a/c belt runs off three pulleys; the crankshaft pulley (big one down the bottom), the a/c compressor pulley, and a small one in between those two. This small one is you're tensioner. Now it's not spring loaded, but instead works off a " bolt method". The center bolt on the pulley requires to be loosened by a few turns, this bolt not only holds the pulley on, but it acts as a "brake" to stop the bearing front going up or down. Once this is loosened a couple of turns, there should be a bolt underneat that runs straight up behind the pulley, this is the tensioner bolt, simply loosen the bolt and you should see the pulley move as you do it and the belt should become loose, just keep going until you're able to remove the belt. Then replace in the oposite order. Remember to make sure every bolt is tight.

OH and before you remove the A/C belt, have a feel of the tension it's under, this is about how tight you want it with the new belt.

Below is a picture of the spring belt tensioner for the main belt.

[Veriton]

I have a 5.7L engine, but this is the pic I got for a L76 V8, so it looks somewhat similar to the 5.7L.