I bought a VZ V6 last year and I am horribly disappointed with the power i get from it. It feels gutless on the accelleration from 0-60 and then it picks up. I had a VS Wagon which had so much more power then this engine. I heard from a mate that there is a computer chip or something that restricts the power? If so is there a big difference of power without this computer chip? Sorry If I'm just rambling but yeah is there a major change in power with this computer chip gone?
Change the diff gears to 3.7 or better.This mod will beat a CAI,catback/extractors put together.Forget this miracle chip thingamijig if you want to get of the line quicker.The other way is a stall convertor to multiply your engines torque quicker/sooner.
The 250+kg less the VS had to lug around is the main factor with accelleration differences,the Alloytech has more refined power/torque.
These could possibly help, has some bits on the ecu etc.
The Ultimate Alloytec Performance Thread
VZ Frequently Asked Questions
Really, what are you trying to prove that your VZ Alloytec literally takes its time from zero to 60?
You into donuts on the blacktop? Lots of factors will restrict power, especially very cold starts and drive-offs and the type of driving you predominantly do (constant city driving is a p*ss-off to any engine). If you want to really see how to drive a VZ, have a look at CFA, MFB or Police V* in action (many do not have the power-plus Police Packs installed); they step on the pedal from zero and shoot off, no skids or burns: it's not exactly mollycoddling the powerplant, but it proves the engine will deliver power and torque in an upward and controlled manner, rather than just brute force throwing you back.
Get to know the engine. Low-end torque and refined delivery is there when you need it: an alloytec will blurt you out of a bog when required, and spew mud all over creation in doing so. I know, happened to me last weekend, plastering 2 cars behind me with gloop...![]()
•:*¨¨*:•.When you start your car, does it return the favour?•:*¨¨*:•.
Originally posted by soop
Your arse is going to sting for a while, and then worse when it does bugger all.![]()
Perhaps you may care to elaborate on your references to: CFA, MFB or Police V* just what they refer to and in particular the 'Police Pack'. My understanding of a 'Police Pack' is extra battery, different switching of internal and external lights, different brake pads, steel sump guard, transmission oil cooler, etc. If you think that 'Police Pack' includes a special 'hi-power/performance chip' or other engine/tune enhancements then sorry to have to spoil your dream, but they don't. If anything they carry considerable extra weight such as battery, radios, computer, safety/rescue equipment, etc. etc.
There is a thread here on JustC someplace that lists among other things in the Police Pack a brute of an alternator and revised transmission sequencing (?). Given that my VZ came from the CFA and contact with them established just what went in and did not, it was confirmed that a high output alternator was put in, then removed prior trade-over (it was re-fitted to next vehicle). Additional wiring for front grill lights/roof lights were put in, then removed (front grill replaced), steel sump guard was standard (not part of Police Pack) and a centre-dash transponder fitted (with doublesided tape and bluetooth comms., so no drilling of holes etc.). That double-sided tape crystalised and was quite ugly but was easily removed with a soak in WD-40. There was no reference in their pricey pack upgrade to a transmission oil cooler or different (meaning, 'how long is a piece of string?') brake pads. They did remove all the wheels they put on and spent a fortune on PDW rims (including the spare) and 235/45/17 rubbers. The last of the station's VZs went in April this year and they jumped to the OMEGA V6 sidi (whatever that is...), same with Ambulance Service and some Police vehicles, three of which are in use in the village nearby my home and set up like mine was.
I found the overlooking of POLICE MODE still engaged and long wait to get the car in for this to be exited to be an irritation but nothing the Holden techie couldn't fix in a jiffy, and discover a few other juicy details, namely "what the BCM/ECU saw..."
You might want to try a few tankfulls of PULP (98) and compared that with the 91 stuff. It's all I use for my predominantly Hume Freeway driving (669km return trip twice weekly). It makes a difference when accelerating off and might even keep the kitty under the hood cleaner...
Last edited by Little Red VZ Go-Kart; 17-09-2010 at 02:25 PM.
•:*¨¨*:•.When you start your car, does it return the favour?•:*¨¨*:•.
Originally posted by soop
Your arse is going to sting for a while, and then worse when it does bugger all.![]()
forget police packs, alternators and crap.. if you want great power from the alloytecs, save your pennies, buy a raptor kit. If you want better performance, do what the rest of us have done (Alloytec Performance Thread). There are no superchip's that will fix the issus you and the rest of us are facing. For a small 3.6L V6 they go great.
Life starts at 200km/h
This has been discussed many times but the Alloytech has alot of torque abuse management which makes it gutless at lower revs. Alot of this can be removed with a good VCM tune. I drove a SIDI SV6 recently and it still lagged down low compared to my tuned VZ SV6 lol.
I have to agree with impulsive that a Raptor Kit is the way to go if you want a decent gain over performance. Alot of people on this forum who own 175 and 190 alloytecs have done mods such as cold air intakes or two hole mod, exhaust and headers, retune of the computer etc and it has only gained approximately half a second (give or take) on the 1/4 mile (going by the accurate dragstrip timers). I would want more performance than this for the outlay of what it costs to get this half a second.
Go a Raptor if you want a big injection of power otherwise save up for a 5.7 or 6.0ltGoodluck
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