Ive had a look through some of the posts and tried some different things which all didnt work.
Ok,
so last week I started my car and moved it from behined my house to the side. The car was running for about 30 seconds.
I got in the car the next day to start it and all it does is turn over and not start.
ok.
I have a suspicion that it is flooding the engine for some strange reason (i also saw this in an older thread but didnt explain how to fix) because when the fuel pump relay is pulled out and started. it starts. than dies after about a minute,.
any ideas
could it need a tune up or reset of computer or something?
I dont have the money for a mechanic atm lol
You started the engine, moved the car and stopped, all in what you say is 30 seconds. Start the car, idle it a bit, then move it, maybe even drive it around the block. Best of all, take it for a drive where it can warm up. This business of moving cars (any cars!) a couple of meters round about, here and there without actually driving is naff, wasted fuel is but one of the problems (consider water pooling in the muffler that can rust — all the old people around here go through 2 or 3 mufflers a year, because they drive their car from the garage to the front gate (300m at most) and back! You get petrol feeding into the engine but not getting burnt because the engine is stone cold. I agree with you regarding money for repairs: consider that it's hard enough to get the money to buy a car, much harder to find the money to repair it — repairs that could be avoided "if only I..." (many circumstances). With due respect, I really don't sit easily with what the techies and mechanics holler on how "harmless" these short shuttles are. Pack your camera (I make a point of encouraging people to always carry a camera, as I do!), coffee and drive the car around and warm it up.
Be aware that a dying fuel pump will be a little whinger (quite noisy at the tank); if you can get the car started, move to the tank and listen, if not, have somebody at the pack listen while cranking. Difficult starts, stuttering/rough idling and hesitant driving-off are usually not the preserve of fuel injectors or miscellaneae engine bits (unless the engine is patently filthy and stuffed), but a fuel pump on the way out. I could give you chapter and verse on what the little buggers do as they go out (and never to put Chinese-made pumps in!). So, have that checked first and if clear, work forward toward the engine scrutinising all the way.
I usually would drive it for at least five minutes or idle it a bit this is probably the only time i had had to do this because i was in a hurry that morning to get to work and had to move my car out of the way of the driveway (I get a lift up each day to work)
The fuel pump is working, not noisy I do have a mechanic that i know working on it at home but he is finding it difficult to work out. the car starts for a bit while the fuel pump relay is unplugged. Also have had the filters and plugs changed
Your first remedy might be a call to RACT (presuming you are a member).
Secondly, with all due respect, a mechanic might be needed despite the cost (explain your situation to him), not continued speculation. We've all had bad times with finances and struggled with cars and I have never had a mechanic who refused to look at my car once I explained to him my circumstances at the time.
You could wax lyrical with all sorts of theories here without getting to the absolute crux of the problem, hence the two points I have made.
yea I think the mechanic will be the only way to go for this problem.
This is not an uncommon problem if you start the engine (from cold) and only run it for a few seconds perhaps 5 - 15. Apparently even Holden were caught out some time ago when it happend to one of their press cars. The remedy. Remove the fuel pump fuse, make sure that you have plenty of charge in the battery, commence to turn key and starter until engine fires. When it does fire it can be really rough and might spew heaps of black smoke out of the exhaust. Replace fuel pump fuse and you are back in business. Cause - related to engine not running long enough and computer not re-setting fuel air mix resulting in major flooding. As I understand it there is not 'factory fix' etc. Just be aware in the future when only running the (cold) engine for a very short time.
One other point, after you manage to start the enging (and having let it run for a couple of minutes), you may notice that an erro code as appeared on your dash/scree. This can often be resolved by removing the negative lead from the battery, getting a piece of eoectrical wire (12 volt type) ans shorting it across the terminal for a few seconds. This apparently will reset the cache by discharging the electrical current and removing the error/code. This technique was used by a Road Service (Club) patrolman/mechanic. I really wouldn't have believed the simplicity of it - if I hadn't seen it for myself.
Last edited by Benboy; 01-10-2010 at 12:50 PM. Reason: Additional info
Thanks, i will try this when i get home and give it a go,
owe you big time if this works.
Try cranking with your foot to the floor on the accellerator. From memory this cuts the fuel on the VZs but wont drain the lines.
Silver Certified.
Worked car started after about a minutes worth of cranking.
It ran like crap but seemed to fix itself.
thanks everyone
I can tell you now there will not be any error codes the car was flooded its is a basic as that when you start the car cold it injects extra fuel to start the car and warm it up quicker all cars do this carby and electronic injection always have and always will. So when you stared the car cold and switch it off before it warms up chances are that your car may flood as a result of not being able to warm up. This is why when you remove the fuel pump relay the car starts and dies because the car has enough fuel in the rail and the engine to start just cant run. when you put your foot on the accellerator pedal and press it flat to the floor and crank it this is known as a flood start.
I would not waste my money on getting the faults checked because there is nothing wrong with your car