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Thread: Noisy Lifters?? LS1

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    Default Noisy Lifters?? LS1

    Hey Everyone,

    My car has recently developed a tapping noise from the engine, I've tried to do a bit of research but most of the posts here concern the Alloytec V6. The car is a 11/05 VZ SSZ 5.7L auto.

    Oil was last changed at 41k in June, and before making a trip from Brisbane to Canberra I got the oil changed on Friday (Magnatec - always used in this car) at 46k. All this time, the tap noise wasn't present. I filled up with BP Ultimate at Tenterfield, and it wasn't until I stopped at Maitland that I noticed the noise. Anyway I got to Sydney and filled up with BP 95 instead, and got back to Canberra but the noise is still present. Only happens at idle, and only when the engine is warm. Seems to be slightly louder when it's in Drive. I found a video on YouTube which sounds pretty similar: YouTube - noisy lifters

    Mine doesn't make the tap at start up though. Only when warm. I read through the comments on that page but it doesn't really solve anything. Does anyone have any ideas? Car has never been flogged at all. In the last 5,000km or so it wouldn't have been over 3,000rpm. Thanks.

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    soop is offline Banned
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    Mines abit the same mate, I've no real idea how to fix it. Though I personally don't consider it a dramatic issue. Annoying though.

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    I think the problem lies in the 10w40 of the Magnatec.Try a 10w60 and see how it go's,Penrites Extra 10 in 10w60 is good to use and doesnt kill the wallet if doing 5000km oil changes regularly.

    Not making the tap on start up to me shows the Magnatec at operating temp is starting to break down,this is where the 60 may fix your issue.Our climate is not suited to the oils Holden/Ford ect recommend for us,especially in Summer.

    Have a look on Mainlubes website for some good info on what I have recommended in more detail/results.His oil is the ducks guts but too expensive for me to run in my cars,around $40 a litre.Steve recommends Castrol Edge 10w60 if one cant afford his stuff,the tests he has done back this up.A good read that site.

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    60 weight oil...... is fkin thick... have a look at how oil viscosity works before you start recommending thicker oil for an engine that isnt designed to run it...

    id rather lifter tick that bearing knock....

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    They're recommended that 10-40 from new. After a 100k wear makes the tollerances go to the shit. That''s why it ticks in the first place. And thats why people run custard in 5ltrs.

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    exactly.... but putting 60 weight oil in your engine, will fix one problem, and make two more...
    one being excessive oil consumption and two premature bearing failure ! try a 50 weight before jumping to 60.... if the noise bothers you enough

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    LOL,10w40 is the same thickness as 10w60 on cold startup.The extra 20 on the pointy end is not start up weight but extra tollerance to breakdown at higher temps ect.

    I await your apology...............
    Last edited by karlos; 31-10-2010 at 06:30 PM. Reason: spelling

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boonz View Post
    exactly.... but putting 60 weight oil in your engine, will fix one problem, and make two more...
    one being excessive oil consumption and two premature bearing failure ! try a 50 weight before jumping to 60.... if the noise bothers you enough
    Can you please have a look at the MAINLUBE website and educate yourself a little more.

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    you obviosuly dont know how engine parts work karlos... but if you wanna run that oil, fine by me, im not the one replacing your motor earlier than expected.

    lifter noise is caused by the lifter itself OR low oil pressure, and if the lifters are noisy, replace them.... putting thicker oil in doesnt fix the problem, it makes it un noticable to the ear, but the lifter is still at fault.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boonz View Post
    you obviosuly dont know how engine parts work karlos... but if you wanna run that oil, fine by me, im not the one replacing your motor earlier than expected.

    lifter noise is caused by the lifter itself OR low oil pressure, and if the lifters are noisy, replace them.... putting thicker oil in doesnt fix the problem, it makes it un noticable to the ear, but the lifter is still at fault.
    Ha ha,I put my combos through the extremes and have never had an oil related issue,unless your going to say that my snapped valve was oil related?

    Ill stick with what works for me and a multimillion dollar company that has the most extensive oil testing programs in OZ.What would they know...........

    You have also contradicted yourself somewhat,ill let you work that out.

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    by putting thicker oil in a motor that isnt designed to run it will cause premature bearing wear... noisy lifters are noisy for a reason.... driving a stock gen3 on the highway is far from "extreme"

    manufacturers dont spend millions of dollars testing engines for nothing... thats why they give you a specific viscosity chart in the owners manual to go by for each temperature range....

    its designed to run on a specific oil, use it, if theres a problem, fix it! simple...

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    Thanks for your input guys. I'll check out the mainlubes website. Boonz, correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the oil cap specify 5w-30? Should I be using Mobil 1 5w-30? I use it in my Mazda 6, and I know it's very thin, but it's great during both start up and normal operating temperature on the Mazda. Obviously the Gen3 is very different, and what you're suggesting Karlos is to go for a thicker oil so it doesn't break down as much when warm, which makes sense. I'm a little confused though, your opinions are somewhat different??

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    love it how people EDIT their replies AFTER a few hours... so jam your apology karlos...

    5-30 is what your meant to use to get the fuel economy holden state on the sticker when you buy your car, as its a low friction oil, the gen 3's internal clearances are fairly tight, which is why a thicker oil can damage bearings, the oil is simply too thick for the clearance...

    if your lifters are noisy, id be getting your oil pressure checked because low oil pressure at idle will cause that, (have replaced a few oil pumps from the same complaint as yours) if the oil pressure is fine i would be looking at running a few rounds of engine oil flush and then a fresh batch of oil and see if the noise goes away. the oil feed holes for the lifters are tiny and can get partially blocked by sludge/carbon deposits

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boonz View Post
    love it how people EDIT their replies AFTER a few hours... so jam your apology karlos...
    It was 2 minutes,didnt know you couldnt read too.

    Posted at 6:28pm and edited at 6:30pm =10w60 ftw

    Was that strawberry or apricot jam....?
    Last edited by karlos; 01-11-2010 at 08:15 AM. Reason: because I can

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    Quote Originally Posted by karlos View Post
    LOL,10w40 is the same thickness as 10w60 on cold startup.The extra 20 on the pointy end is not start up weight but extra tollerance to breakdown at higher temps ect.

    I await your apology...............
    Last edited by karlos; Today at 06:30 PM.
    ..... also, who said anything about differences in oil thickness when cold?... why do people have it in their head that thick oil is a good thing for tight tolerance motors??

    weve been told specifically by holden to not use over 40 weight oil because it will result in oil consumption problems.... i spose holden engineers are all wrong hey?

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    I'm Having the same problem on a a auto vy SV8. I tried everything to fix it but most guys reckon new lifters and running premium is the best way to reduce this noise. Each time i take it to the mechanic he reckons it's normal for a cam mod to make such pinging noises but it's so annoying i just want it fixed. I'm seriously considering blue printing the bottom end and installing new forged pistons, rings, pushrods, lifters and springs plus custom tune and may get a manual trans because this mod will give me 500+hp and could blow the auto trans as advised. the guys on the forum reckon all is needed is a re tune and trick the auto box to suit the mod so I have to research this before I jump into this so-called blue print solution to fixing my pinging problem

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    ^^^ wtf lol!

    Boonz is right, You won't fix the problem by using thicker oil but you will mask it. I understand what he means with regards to bearing failure, but the likely hood of it being an issue is minimal, Frankly I would probably run 10/50 or even 20/50.

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    they recommend a certain weight oil because that is what the engine is designed to run. ive run 10w-30 in my car like the manual says from 0kms to 160 000kms and my engine has no noisy lifers

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    LS1 and even LS2 run the same bearing tolerances as the sames as older engines. So using a 50grade oil in them isn't going to hurt them. I use 50 grade in my VT SS LS1 and VE SSV. No problems, I couldn't run anything less, might as well put sewing machine oil in your engine. At operation temperature 60 grade is really the only grade that can keep up the 100 c viscosity. It is about keeping the film strength between the metal surfaces so they don't touch. 30 grade just won't be as great as 50 grade or higher.
    My LS1 has the same problem has yours, at running temp the lifter noise travels right down the exhaust and echos. Come to think of it though, I haven't heard them in the last couple of months. I wouldn't worry too much about it. My VE SSV has it too, but it is very faint. How the LSx engines are. They are combustion engines, you can't expect them to be too quiet :P
    Yours Kindly,
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    I read in the owners manual that oil degrades much faster if the engine is operated at constant high speeds, which might explain why I only noticed it when I pulled up at Maitland. I'm going to change the oil this weekend to see if it makes a difference.

    So to what you said Boonz, it's the SSZ model which has an oil pressure gauge on the dash. At idle, it sits at 2.5 and when driving, 3. I don't even know what measurement or unit that represents. I assume those readings are normal though?

    In the last two years at least, it's only ever had magnatec in it. The owners manual actually specifies 10w-30. Should I try and find an oil with that viscosity, or go with what users are recommending (10w-50)?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Berlinarator View Post
    I read in the owners manual that oil degrades much faster if the engine is operated at constant high speeds, which might explain why I only noticed it when I pulled up at Maitland. I'm going to change the oil this weekend to see if it makes a difference.

    So to what you said Boonz, it's the SSZ model which has an oil pressure gauge on the dash. At idle, it sits at 2.5 and when driving, 3. I don't even know what measurement or unit that represents. I assume those readings are normal though?

    In the last two years at least, it's only ever had magnatec in it. The owners manual actually specifies 10w-30. Should I try and find an oil with that viscosity, or go with what users are recommending (10w-50)?
    that pressure reading is in BAR... 1 bar is 14.5 psi... 50-55 psi is roughly what a gen 3 should have at highway speed and load

    the magnatec oil your using, is it 10-30 or 10-40?

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    Quote Originally Posted by undar8ed1 View Post
    why do all oil threads turn into s##t fights.
    cos some people have an impression that thick oil fixes problems...

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