ignition barrel wont turn
Hi hope someone can shed some light on my problem when i put the key in the ignition it will not turn to enable me to start the car .I have wrench the steering wheel from side to side and no luck even made sure i have the right keys (as i have two VZ utes) anyone had this issue before Thanks
yes just recently, was in a carpark with a hammer and chisel taking off the ignition barrel. had some natives park next to me they saw what i was doing and moved their car away from me.
try to turn the key and wheel at the same time and make sure the center pops out after you take out the key. slap sum crc down it also
vyma100
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Yes had the same thing happen to me a month ago. Worked the steering wheel and key with no joy.
My mate down at Holden said to shoot some graphite dust into it, reinsert the key & give the remote end of the key a solid tap with the palm of your hand. Worked for me.
It is a sign of wear in the barrel, but doing this you can get it to turn. Work the graphite dust in.
Thanks to all who replied i did get it going the graphite dust and crc and a screwdriver and hammer all must of helped thanks for the diagram it will help for when replace the barrel as it must be worn Thanks again
F O R U M W A R R I O R
Really you need to replace the barrel.
Not a hard job but you do need to code the new barrel to your key.
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Gday mate getting the new barrel coded to my key? can i just go to a locksmith or to a holden dealer
F O R U M W A R R I O R
Either, see whos cheaperOriginally Posted by scud3805
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Hi Spoo1in The diagram that you supplied for the ignition barrel refers to disable the air bag Re: section 12m, 2.2 system enabling&disabling procedures would you know if just disconnecting battery earth lead would be adequate?? or would you have the airbag procedure that i could view it would be greatly appreciated as i dont want the airbag to go off while im working on the ignition barrel Thanks Scud
F O R U M W A R R I O R
You should dc the battery anyways to avoid accidental cranking of the engine.
Can also pull the SRS fuse for added piece of mind.
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Thanks again i will give it a go and see how it ends up???
Hi all Thanks for the help completed the barrel change over but not that smooth sailing as my barrel wouldnt let me turn the key to have it on accessories as per instruction diagram But after several beers and one broken key in the old barrel it was done im happy with the outcome barrel from holden $65 keying the barrel $10 and new key cut $55 total $130 but holden quoted me $230 and most locksmiths in my area all around $250 still ahead though If only the barrel would turn it would be straight forward
Mine did this last year apparently when i gets hot theres a little locking ball inside the barrel that gets stuck. its been a floor with the barrels since then vn days
TEAM CLOWN RACING
Thought i would share my experience replacing the ignition barrel on my VZ. Particularly, the bits that arent mentioned above.
Firstly, unless you are keen on fiddly things, if you purchase the replacement ignition barrel, take the old barrel and the new barrel to a locksmith. Seriously. I spent hours working it out. The locksmith could probably get it done in 10 minutes and charge about 20 bucks.
If you are keen on recoding the new barrel yourself:
Leave the key in the barrel as you remove it from the steering column.
Slowly remove the key a few mm at a time.
As you pass each of the key sliders (whatever), note the position and number on the slider you will need to put the sliders in the exact same configuration in the new barrel.
Take the new barrel and insert the new sliders in the same configuration as the old.
Important: Make sure you insert the key barrel into the housing and turn it, it should turn freely. If not, you have the wrong key slider configuration.
To reinstall the barrel:
Ensure that the locking pin and all key sliders are inserted into the key barrel. The sliding pin should also be inserted at the rear of the barrel housing, locking the barrel into the housing.
Important: Before you insert the barrel and housing into the steering column make sure that you push down the lock inside the steering column where the barrel was removed. The lock is right at the back of the housing, and is U shaped. You can do this using a screwdriver (I did). It should click into place.
Turn the key to the ON position in the barrel and insert the barrel into the housing.
DO NOT try to force the new barrel into the steering column, if it does not slide right in first check if the key is in the ON position and that the lock inside the steering column is clicked into place. The latch on top of the barrel housing is really brittle and can easily snap. (I snapped my new barrel housing and had to use the old one in the end).
These few lessons, in particular the bit about the lock within the barrel housing had me cursing and yelling at the thing for hours.
Hope it helps others out there from making the same mistakes.
BTW whole thing cost me 40 bucks for the ignition barrel and 6 hours of my time. I reckon if i had to do it again, i could do it in about 20 minutes.
yeh mine did the same thing last summer while at the beach and had to replace the ignition the tow truck driver reckons he gets called out atleast once a week for this problem
Exhaust Guru
The key needs to be in the ACC position, not ON. I did our VT on Friday. Recoded the new barrel in about 15 minutes.
The problem with ours was that it got stuck in the ACC position because the little lock that holds it in the assembly had actually broken and inserting a pin through the hole had no effect. The part that is held up by the spring and holds it in the assembly had broken off just next to the hole so a part of it was still engaged. The only way I could get it out was belt it out with a hammer and screw driver.
Oh, and there is no need to remove the steering wheel or disable the air bag. Just remove the ignition plug from the switch on the back of the barrel.
I also had this happen on a 35 degree day. Saved myself $350 by calling a friendly locksmith who told me to try WD-40. I had already tried graphite with no luck but the WD-40 did the trick! Worth a go if you are going to have to replace the barrel anyway. Good luck!
How did you get the old barrel out without turning the key?
cheers
I got the job done for $50, happened to me as well and in the end i ended up making it work with a hammer and ended up just going to get the barrel replaced the same day.
If it has started happening i recommend just getting a new barrel as soon as you can. The barrels in commodores are supposed to last 4-5 years on average so yeah.
Bought a new aftermarket ignition barrel with two keys incl for $57 at the local spare parts place.
Part no. NIB74
Nice Products - Auto Locks
Have a look in this thread
Another Stuck Ignition Barrel - Tried everything but won't move!
How i got the barrel to turn was a bit of luck i think. After about half an hour of tapping the key barrel with a large bladed screwdriver and squirting CRC down the barrel which didnt work for me .. Then out of frustration i put the key in the ignition and with a pair of pliers i gently tried turning the key and i thought it was turning but it just snapped the key in the barrel but in saying that it must of worked as i was then able to remove the barrel as per instruction or maybe just lucky..........Or try drilling the barrel out with a 12 or 13mm drill bit it mite be a bit mess but that would of been my next option Good Luck
Think I'l try the WD40 had mine playing up over the last week..
Getting the Jack of Holdens, it seems to be the same problem over the years & Holden don't fix.
If it's not key barrels ,it's fuel guages or the door activators.
Hey there,
I did my barrel today with a locksmith all went ok, but noticed now after reconnecting the ignition wiring plug ( at the cack of the ignition barrel)that i now need to press unlock before starting the car. even when the car is unlocked.
Middle-age mutant ninja
Today my neighbour had a bit of grief with unlocking his VZ. The problem is confusion on the part of the owner, not the car!
In your case, the requirement to press unlock a second time may well be indicative of deadlock mode having been engaged and not fully exited (among other things, the BCM has noticed a replacement barrel and reconnection of the key-reader). 1 x unlock gets you in, but it won't start until you press unlock again. Conversely, when leaving: two presses of Lock = deadlock; coming back: 1 x press of unlock disengages deadlock from driver's side door; other doors remain locked; 2 x press of unlock disengages deadlock on all doors completely. This sequence is often a cause of grief and frustration among drivers who can become confused when busy and then come back, or leave, and find the car is not responding in the expected manner.
•:*¨¨*:•.When you start your car, does it return the favour?•:*¨¨*:•.
Originally posted by soop
Your arse is going to sting for a while, and then worse when it does bugger all.
F O R U M W A R R I O R
Whether deadlocked or not, the car should open and start with one press of the unlock button.
The only time a second press is required is when passenger doors are to be unlocked as you stated.
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