Vz ss t-56 problem

[SICKTG]

I have a vz ss 6l with a manual trans the other day I couldn't get the car into reverse it took a solid 8 try's to get it in pumping the clutch trying other gears first then I noticed it was hard to get in first/second at the lights on the same day so I look under my car and see heaps of oil around the back of the transmission and on the underbody so I go and get a new seal for the back of the box drop the fluid replace the seal and put new fluid in I start the car shifts into reverse as normal first and second feel normal but after maybe 10 minutes into my drive a sort of bearing squeal noise started coming the the gearbox it starts to squeal from about 30ks up and won't stop until the car comes to rest it makes the noise with the clutch in at speed and also in neutral oh and I refilled the box using penrite ATF dx3 and also used some Lucas transmission fix I filled up to the filler plug until fluid came out then put another 400 ml in through removal of the reverse switch what have I done to my gearbox any ideas or suggestions?

[db_notso]

from the t56 "service-manual"-
*before diagnosing gearbox make sure noise is not coming from clutch release bearing or clutch components or final drive*

but as your noise doesnt change (pitch/volume) when clutch is in or out its not likely to be the clutch

so in the manual that leaves:

improper or low lubricant level -fix- add drain or replace lubricant done by you already just check level again


loose bolts or attaching parts -fix- tighten all attaching parts to spec. center bearing bolts loose trans mount?


improper flywheel housing to engine alignment -fix- check bell housing bolts not loose


noisy transmission bearings -fix- check bearings, rollers and parts in and on where they operate for wear or damaged teeth

noisy gears -fix- check gears (including speedomoter gear) for wear or damage


so hard to select gears and something is binding up at speed and noisy till you stop
clutch in or out no difference to noise
i suspect it starts after you enter a certain gear too........leans me to a synchro binding if does...

if oil level correct, speedo works okay, center bearing bolts tight,bell housing bolts arent falling out, diffs not source of noise...(check jacked up on hoist recomended)

then its likely to be a siezing component in the box either bearings rollers or binding synchro

but check the other things first before stripping it~!

[SICKTG]

It doesn't matter what gear I'm in the noise still starts as the speed increases its just odd the noise is still present when in nutural or with the clutch in? Speedo works car seems to drive fine just a loud whine/squeal from what sounds like right under the shifter.I also checked for any leaks from the gearbox in fear it all leaked out but couldn't see any was dark tho so I'll check tomorrow I'll probably drop the fluid I put in today and try the transmax z check all the bolts I undid (tailshaft to replace the gearbox seal) and check bellhousig bolts even tho i didnt touch them check the diff however feels normal and I'll post what happens if it is something seizing in the box how expensive is it going to get seems odd it would worsen with a fluid change

[db_notso]

the old fluid was probably thickened black sludgey goodness....

the noise is still there when you put the clutch in while moving because the noise isnt clutch related
its from the clutch back and its all still moving thanks to your diff moving the shaft blah blah blah
noise under shifter AND hard to select reverse

..... my guess (if oil levels correct)

gearing/part#137 bearing, reverse idler gear roller
OR
gearing/part#72 bearing, reverse gear

there roller bearing's that sits under the reverse gear(and idler gear) if this was siezing up
it would also affect the laygear shaft

it will most likely need the two bearings, the reverse blocker ring(synchro) MY GUESS ONLY

[SICKTG]

The old fluid was a dark red no sludge or metals or burnt smell I guess I'm
Going to have to check everything over tomorrow try another fluid make sure there's no leaks it's all tight and hope it's not a box out job :S thanks for the help mate I'll reply as to what I find tomorrow

[SICKTG]

Ok I dropped the fluid checked all the bolts I touched yesterday made sure bellhousing was tight I replaced te fluid with penrite manual gear oil 70 synthetic performance ( states Holden/hsv t-56 on the bottle) and the noise is still there also the only thing I notice was a little different was the seal that went in the back of the box the old one didn't touch the shaft the new one is a snug fit I assume this is just seal for dirt should I take the boot off the seal on the back of the box and test drive what have I got to loose?

[SICKTG]

I cut some of the seal off (the dust boot part) go for a drive the squeal/whine noise has gone I drove around for about 30 minutes and nothing? Only thing was it was still difficult sometimes selecting some gears but as it got warmer it shifted fine

[db_notso]

hmmm incorrect size seal? is it leaking now? if not nice!

putting thicker oil in generally only masks a problem
you will just have to keep a good eye on it i guess!~

[SICKTG]

Nah no leaks seems all good? Definitely alot less heat from the gear box with this oil compared to the original stuff I took out and I thought about a thicker oil but this stuff is supposed to be and equvilant to dex3 so I'll see what happens keep my fingers crossed and hope nothing breaks

[db_notso]

i suppose... just have to keep an eye out for any other problems in the box i guess....

[SICKTG]

It shifts nice now not hard to get in any gears it's really strange? Only other problem I have is the traction control kicks in sometimes when taking off when the wheels definitely don't spin just taking off easy can do it I had Holden look at it 3 months after I got it they charged me to "fix" it and it still does it when the trac kicks in I hear a clunk from the gearbox not from the diff which is strange

[db_notso]

traction control measures wheel speeds in reference to engine tourque gear etc
if any ONE part slips in this link it activates traction control, so
my guess either slipping clutch or the other wheel is spinning OR your mistaken and its a misfire under EXTREME load
to be sure not this top gear up a hill at like....70? for your car revs about 2000 or less should be enough load (use full throttle)
if it shudders you have a miss...

[SICKTG]

I tried doing that to test the clutch slow in high gear with the brake on didn't shudder and the clutch seemed to hold well ill try it again tho

[db_notso]

not too much or you will force the clutch to slip....and hurt it
no brake justbe in too higher gear so that the motor JUST isnt struggling to rev hiogher (revs slowly like @ 200rpm compared to 4000rpm)

if its missing the car will shudder badly like an injector was unplugged.... or lead off