Which 1st, front or rear brakes?

[Ray De Man]

Hi Guys,

Got a issue with the SV6 brakes. I know from standard the brakes are shit but whats up with mine?!

From my knowledge the front brakes need to work first before the rears. Am I correct, well.... I believe mine don't. Reason being since i've owned the car the front wheel always stay heaps cleaner then the rears. Example; I can wash the rear wheels twice before I even notice the fronts dusting up and being more road dust more then anything.

Brakes are crap and getting worse. Had times when some pratt jams on their brakes at green light sections and I need to stop in a hurry before a rear-ender. My fronts tend to do jack with ABS going beserc with the rear grip nicely and wants to slide! Scary at times and I hate driving it in the rain as it's even worse!!!

I thought some 3 months ago to change the pads all-round (discs had plenty of meat on them), using Bendix on fronts and ferodo on the rears. Since they should be well and truely bedded in, shouldn't they work correctly? Well i'm not too sure coz fronts still stay clean, crap braking while the backs are black and probably doing all the work!

So my question is, is my calipers working properly or is the pad to disc bondage on fronts wrong (too much gas to bond) or is it something else?
Current - It's standard disc's all-round apart from the pads.
Before - Was standard disc's and GM approved pads.

Please help....

[Adds_05]

i think most say ferodos are more dusty than bendix. im not sure,i havnt used them in years as i only use bendix now...

[Burnout124]

bendix make good pads. i fit them all the time i would check that you slides are free on the front calapers and that your caster rod bushes are in good condition

[Ray De Man]

I haven't used ferodo in years also but were still a good pad. I think they a have a softer compound then the bendix.

[Ray De Man]

I used bendix pads with rda slotted discs all round on my old vx and worked a treat.

Answer to your question, Burnout124. I had checked the slides and are working fine. Castor rod bushes were replaced 18 months ago aswell as various other components in and around the strut.

Even though car has ths combination of brake pads still doesn't explain why the rears are working and the fronts appear to not wether. Even when old GM pads (think Delco) were in, front always stayed clean while down the back they were flithy.

Are my calipers stuffed? Doesn't the brake bias work like 60% front 40% rear and wouldn't that mean fronts should get dustier?

[Ray De Man]

Oh I would go the combo I had in my old car again but can't justify spending that much money if it still does the same thing!

What can I do people???

[VYMAD]

The new Bendix General CT's are dust free pretty much. I disagree with what you said about the fronts biting before the rears, I reckon they should all brake evenly at the same time, but the fronts will do most of the work. You say your slides are working ok? Well maybe it's because of the different pad types, but Bendix should pull you up no worries and like I said, they'll give next to no dust.

[Hangman]

I disagree with what you said about the fronts biting before the rears, I reckon they should all brake evenly at the same time, but the fronts will do most of the work.

This.

When you brake, all the brakes work but the fronts will bite harder than the back due to the bias being on the front.

[RiCeY]

Cheap non gen pads or aggressive pads will dust a lot more than genuine pads. If the rears are dusting up it doesnt mean they are working harder, more likely that they have had cheap pads installed.

[Ray De Man]

I understand that theory with the pads but why does it feel like I need to push the pedal almost fully down before im even feeling the car slowing?

Do you guys recommend any pad and disc combos? Anything to try?

Thanks for the replys btw

[nemesis_adrasteia]

I understand that theory with the pads but why does it feel like I need to push the pedal almost fully down before im even feeling the car slowing?

Do you guys recommend any pad and disc combos? Anything to try?

Thanks for the replys btw

could be that your brake fluid is in need of replacement.

or maybe the rubber line to your calipers are swelling instead of directing pressure into the caliper(never seen it happen but ive heard stories)

[Calaber]

It sounds to me like your brake system needs a good going over before you drive much further. Do this.

1. Bleed the system fully. Brake fluid should be changed regularly, regardless of distance intervals. No more than two years between fluid replacement - more frequently is better. How long since yours was done?

2. Check that all calipers and pistons slide freely and that your discs are serviceable, with large scores or excessive wear. Inspect all flexible hoses to ensure that they are still in good condition and not swollen or bulging anywhere. Check for any brake fluid leaks at connections.

3. Replace all pads with the same make and compound. Your pads are obviously different compounds which doesn't help the system pull you up properly. Excessive dust usually means a softer, more grippy compound whereas little or no dust means a harder compound that works better at higher speeds but provides less grab at lower speeds. (The amount of dust can also indicate low quality pads made in some backstreet in Pakistan, too). How is your present braking system supposed to work with that mix?

[DAKSTER]

My little Kia daily driver uses more back pad than front. Its an 05 model, I have replaced the rear pads 3 times, last time about 6 months ago, the front are about ready to be replaced for the second time. Only ever used original parts on this car.

As far as I know, there is nothing wrong with the brakes, and the brake guys seem to think its no big deal either..

Of course, its apples and oranges.. a small front wheel drive vs a large rear wheel drive.. but I wonder if its also not really any big deal?

Of course having to push the brake pedal so hard isnt a good sign I guess lol

[RiCeY]

I understand that theory with the pads but why does it feel like I need to push the pedal almost fully down before im even feeling the car slowing?

Do you guys recommend any pad and disc combos? Anything to try?

Thanks for the replys btw

Either air in the system or a failed master cylinder.

[CRUSTIN]

Most brake systems does have a brake pressure bias. There is a proportioning valve between the front and rear of the circuit, on some ute's its a load proportioning valve which allows more pressure to the rears as the weight in the back increases, that's why you have to do research before lowering your car, you may start locking the rears.