Brakes Help
Hey everyone, in a few weeks i will be changing my pads (front and rear) and possibly my rotors (front and rear), this is my first time doing it on my commodore and i'm confident about it, I just have a few questions to clear up, if anyone could help it would be much appreciated.
1: The pads im thinking of using are bendex CT's, what are your oppinions on these?
2: My current rotors may need replacing, I havent checked them as of yet, but seeing as though this is the first time i've done my brakes on my commy since i brought it last year, i thought i would just put brand new ones on front and rear just for peace of mind so i can keep track of how much meat they have on em. Any recomendations on standard rotors and places to get them?
3: When you put new rotors on, do you need to give them a clean with brake cleaner or emery cloth before running them?
4: I shouldnt need to bleed my brakes at all as i'm only changing the pads and rotors, just wanted to double check?
any replies would be greatly appreciated.
cheers guys!
Bendix ct are good but pricey, nothing wrong with ferodos or a good compound pad, if you change your rotars you will be more satisfied and will feel better as you will have no brake shutter at all, no need to wipe with anything, slap them on and bed them in, that will cause the disk to glaze from the pad forming good contact and quick braking, rotars I go with are DBA disk braking australia, or RDA, if you got some extra coin and want a bit of style you could go slotted which is said to be marginally better for performance anyways, and you won't have to bleed the brakes, but I always do bleed when I change everything for piece of mind that everything is new, fluid is dot 4 or dot 3+
cheers for your reply mate
Yeah i was looking at them ferodo ones although lots of people have been recomending bendix.
As for rotors, isnt glazing bad? Iv heard that you need to clean them first?
Im not too keen about bleeding if its not neccessary, im not letting any air into the system so it should be ok
Blues Brother # 1
Ferodo are a pretty damn good brake pad for the price, lots of feel to them.
Only thing that would stop me buying them again. after like 1 stop your rims are BLACK lol
Now i run bendix no dust
When was the last time the fluid was changed ? should be done every 2 years as brake fluid absorbs moisture. this equals to poor brake pedal feel and rusting your brake system inside out :S
If your rotors are glazed, its not the best thing. i had glazed rotors. i just did a few hard stops and was ok for a while. But really just replace the rotor they are like $80 a set if you look around.
i would personally only use bendix ct , no need too bed them in , read their instructions... YES use disc brake cleaner on your new disc too remove the anti corrosive on the new disc, a compressor to clean your rear internal handbrake shoes, and mask..over here in sa auto barn are doing a set off front pads and two disc for under a $100 ,. also rears,, so for 200 bucks and two hours off your time its all done
bendix ultimates are one of the best if your not on a tight budget, in my experience if you have to depress the caliper piston air will get in, commodore brakes in general are abit soft.
what we have here,is a failure too communicate!!
EDALS Yeah thats precisely why i would like to go with bendix, not only performance wise but not alot of dust. As for my brake fluid, am well aware of the consequences of not changing it, which is why ive been asking myself the same question. I might leave that one up to my mechy, as hes got people who know what there doing to assist him where as id have to do it myself. Rotor wise, i been sussing up these standard DBA ones from supercheap so im pretty sure thats the go.
loopie Whatt!! thats a pretty good deal!.. But i might just stick to doing the pads and rotors myself. Its all experience, im an apprentice plant mechanic so i wanna take it all in :P
ivabiggin yeh i was checkin ultimates out before i seen the CT'S. ultimates are really for fast and furious driving :P seeing as thugh this car is only for work and stuff i would think the CT'S would be more than enuff
km5, yes mate, i agree with what you say having changed pads on many cars and m,cycles i never had a problem with air, but the vz seems to be a differant thing, i queried the air in the lines after apad change at holden dealer and they claim vz will do this,they are also very hard to get the air out,need a lot of fluid to achieve a proper bleed, idon't like or agree with this but thats the explanation i got after i took my car back twice for brake bleed.
what we have here,is a failure too communicate!!
F O R U M W A R R I O R
I always use genuine pads, they perform well and dont turn your rims black in a week, rotors as well. Unless you do a lot of track work genuine is more than adequate.
Its good to renew the fluid at the same time so everything is sweet. Fluid degenerates over time.
Only way to get air in system is to let the reservoir run dry or lift the brake pedal when a nipple is open.
Open nipple, pump pedal to floor, close nipple, raise brake pedal. Cant go wrong. Just keep an eye and keep topping up the fluid.
Silver Certified.
P-plater
Just to clear something up, you dont change brake fluid because of corrosion(corrosion inhibitors) or degeneration, its hygroscopic(absorbs water), as your fluid absorbs water its boiling point lowers, and once it boils then you get vapour lock which causes the spongy pedal.
Clean All mating surfaces of the rotors and hubs(prevents warping), clean rotors before assembly and after.
Originally Posted by Little Red VZ Go-Kart
1. Why would you want to floor it, or move it to the red line? Especially with the lack of airbags and ABS features!? What do you hope to achieve by that??Originally Posted by HoldenV8
give everything a spray with wd40 wheels brakes that should fix the squeaks
never had any air issues myself after countless brake changes... a simple tip,, get your self a piston compessor tool, remove your master cylinder cap. put a damp wet towel around it too catch any excess fluid, compress one caliper at a time enough too in stall your new pads, with a bit off luck,,, NOW a cheats way off flushing your brake fluid , pinch a spray nozzle out off a spray bottle, out off the wife cleaning products, make sure its empty, get a small container, insert it in your master cylinder and suck up the old fluid, install new fluid and bleed your lines as you go, new fluid no air, works a treat for me,,but some people also say backflushing (COMPRESSING) YOUR PISTONS BACK IN CAN #### UP THE ABS UNIT, BUT IT NEVER HAS FOR ME
P-plater
Load of crap, wouldn't do anything to the abs. What happens every time you release your brake pedal? Fluid runs back.
Originally Posted by Little Red VZ Go-Kart
1. Why would you want to floor it, or move it to the red line? Especially with the lack of airbags and ABS features!? What do you hope to achieve by that??Originally Posted by HoldenV8
give everything a spray with wd40 wheels brakes that should fix the squeaks
F O R U M W A R R I O R
Water absorbtion is degeneration.Originally Posted by CRUSTIN
Silver Certified.
F O R U M W A R R I O R
On some cars the piston must be rotated as its pressed back in, but yeah it wont do anything to the ABS.
Silver Certified.
Genuine pads and rotors, whats the price for a full set?
F O R U M W A R R I O R
I get staff rates so dunno retail haha
Due for fronts soon so Ill have to price them up asap.
Silver Certified.
ahh ok, cheers nyways mate!
I was just thinking of just doing my pads and rotors As for fluid replacement, ill get my mechy to do it, doing it alone for all four calipers i reckon would be a giant **** around!
Wat use reckon?
Mate it's easy!!! You can bleed it the way known as "gravity" open the nipple let it bleed and top resevour, this takes longer, but if your solo u gotta do what you gotta do.
F O R U M W A R R I O R
Best to have 2 people but yes you can gravity bleed as ^^ he said.
Silver Certified.
[QUOTE=RiCeY;2002058]On some cars the piston must be rotated as its pressed back in, but yeah it wont do anything to the ABS.[/QUOTE
bloody stupid ford idea]
thats what i found never had a issue, i personally think the abs unit was suss, i always back flush the piston in , and why not remove the corrosive coating with a cleaner?????,,,, glazed pads from the start if you dont
Iv never done this before. So you just open all four nipples and let em drain? then fill up from resevoir? pics would be helpfull
F O R U M W A R R I O R
Yeah you can do all 4 at once. Keep topping up as it drains.
Silver Certified.
cool beans. how much brake fluid you reckon id need?
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