To all who own vz commodores with alloytecs.
Sv6 or not, before you spend any hard-earned dollars on your car, hear me out.
You are throwing your money at a brick wall.
Unless you're forking out 12k plus on a turbo kit (maybe a supercharger if you swing that way), the things are a waste of time modifying.
There are probably plenty of good stories too, but here's mine.
When I bought my car, I could time a 0-100 at around 7.2-7.3 seconds. Ran a 400m of 15.2. Which I was very impressed with.
Then I spent more painful dollars on a CAI, a catback exhaust and manifold insulators, then I had the car tuned and the clutch replaced to a solid flywheel exedy heavy duty. Car ran a 15.1... 0.1 of a second difference...
As you could imagine, I was a little disappointed...
So, in natural "I'm not giving up yet" style, I forked out yet more money... New coils, new injectors, all new oxygen sensors and intake pipe, 20% underdrive pulley, topped off with a cpr6 manifold (with the manifold insulators still under it).
And guess what the dyno figure was after yet another tune..... 120.6rwkw.... The guys tell me it reads low... So I take it for a drive... It feels exactly the same, and I mean I could time a 0-100 and still not even break 7 secs... WTF!? The motor is fine, no sludge, no wear. The Alloytec is, even though I love it, absolute crap. And I have to sit here with near 10k in receipts and nothing at all to show for it...
Call me a traitor, but I hate these misleading advertisements of extra power and economy, it's all a load of bollocks... And I've had my car for 3 years, always babied it, oil and filters every 5k. All the guys on here that sound that annoying "just go buy a v8" chime... Are probably not far off... So save yourself the heartbreak, and leave it the hell alone. Coz it'll drive you mad, and probably empty your pocket.
P.s. If anybody knows wtf is wrong with my car, for gods sake tell me...
I hate to say it, but you can get superchargers for the Alloytec for around the 6k mark. I noticed a good improvement with a full exhaust system (well highly modified stock system and slowly spreading my cats around Darwin).
The alloytecs have so much room for improvement, their biggest limiting factor is how 'new' they are. You can buy performance parts for the Ecotec easily because they have been around for a good deal of time now.
As it is, it was only recently that the BCM was cracked and you can now use stuff like VCM Suite to tune the engine yourself. The CPR6 is still fairly new too. Give it enough time and you will get cheap, and effective performance mods that bolt on. Or maybe even better internal (though they look pretty good as standard if you ask me).
EDIT: I am not trolling or anything, merely pointing out that the engine is still very new and patience is required.
My rides
VZ Crewman S Pack 6 speed
HJ/HQ One Tonner with a worked 253 and 3speed auto
Mate id be having a long hard look at the workshop/tuner that dealt with your car. Its wrong that they would know how much cash you have thrown at it and for them just to.say the dyno reads.low is a shit excuse. Have they taken a reasonable amount of time to troubleshoot at all do you think?. I know dyno numbers mean nothing. But 0-100's and 1/4 miles dont lie.
If you paid damn near $10k for that list, you need to shoot somebody.
None of those mods (with the exception of the tune) are going to do much. The manifold, CAI, intake piping, and exhaust will help with breathing, once you give it a reason to breathe more, cam or boost of some kind.
-Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
-Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
-Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Ronald Reagan (1986)
shouldve just got diff gears and saved youself a whole heap of cash, if you wanted better acceleration.
the VCM software has been out for a number of years, and CPR6 also... there is not much in the way of performance parts for the alloytec if your on a tight budget. Depending on what you want to achieve will control what you modify. If your chasing <15 Seconds down the 1/4 Tune, Diff Gears and the right setup/Driver combo might see you there, along with all the usual crapola, exhaust, bigger tyres etc...
The alloytec is a reasonable car in my opinion.
Have a look at the VT - VY series. 15.7+ on the 1/4.. alloytec stock <15.5
I can get 550 - 650 km per tank in heavy city traffic.
with stiffened suspension and the right tyres they hook in around mountains, have seen a few Blown early model commodores struggling to keep up through the mountains.
However, lets face it... they arent a Lamborghini Gallardo, Aston Martin, Porsche 911t.. They arent designed for the Top Gear test track. They are a family Sedan. But i bet my left nut i can get one around the Top Gear Test Track quickly enough!
Oh and lmao at the Mace Spacers... they are equivalent to a turbo in power... if your not running arctic temps at the intake after those puppies there is drastically something wrong
Life starts at 200km/h
What I mean by they havent been around long is compared to most engines
My rides
VZ Crewman S Pack 6 speed
HJ/HQ One Tonner with a worked 253 and 3speed auto
are you in a auto or manual
you will need cams and porting to make power
or you can boost
Cams used to be $450 each, prob still the same.. the only car i know to have cams is the CPR6 Ute, along with a fully worked engine...
Life starts at 200km/h
Raptor Charger will see you hit mid 13s at best...
Life starts at 200km/h
3.9 LSD diff gears will make u abit happier.
It did for me.![]()
Check out My WL CAPRICE
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...price-l-k.html
To the "is it the driver" comments.
I just happen to have friends with both a vz sv6, and a ve sidi sv6.
I ran them both last night, and it didn't matter whether it was from standstill or not, even rolling from 60 onwards in 2nd, I couldnt beat the sidi, and I was a dead heat on the (standard) vz. Accelerating from 60 onwards isnt hard it's got nothing to do with driver skill... Plus, I've done the quarter before all this, so I'm only competing against myself...
As to why it cost so much, the clutch and cpr6 were the big costs, cpr6 $1600 and clutch and flywheel $3500 installed. New plugs, coils 02 sensors and injectors was around $1800 including labour. 2 separate vcm tunes net to around $1200 (retune was cheaper). Insulators, CAI, catback, underdrive pulley... They all add up.
I'm going back to the tuner today, I Don't understand how this is possible...
As impulsive said, supercharge that thing.
L67 is where its at.
But unfortunately you cant put one of those in a vz.
97 WRX AWD
Tein Coilovers + EDFC Dampener Control - Whiteline heavy duty Rear sway bar - Whiteline Droplinks front and rear
Turbosmart dual stage boost controller
IHI VF34 Turbo - XForce 3inch TBE - Oversized TMIC - Unichip PiggyBack ECU
PPG Straight cut 1st & 2nd, Slight helical 3rd & 4th and standard fifth - HD Clutch - custom braided clutch line
02 wrx 4pot front calipers - DBA500 two peice slotted rotors - Steel braided Lines
BP98 safe tune @ 171.8awkw
chances are you cant beat the Sidi because standard, its a much faster car then yours, most could run around 14.3 standard. This would more then likely be why your getting your ass punched by an Sidi. Oh and just so you know, i have a friend that knows someone that has a friend that would let me drive the Bentley that would run a 13, so it makes my car shit.
As for your mods.. I'm for ever reading and hearing about people bolting on mace insulators and expecting to drop to a 13 seconds pass. The CPR6 is a very expensive bang for buck 'mod' doller for kw. $1600 for 16kw, thats $100 per KW. And tbh, you would be lucky to actually get 16kw. More fool you for not properly looking into things. Your clutch costing $3500 wont make your car really any faster, it may tighten up your launches and gear changes a little bit. But once again most of that will be undone by driver error or perhaps a poor setup.
As for the injectors coils ets... They are a peformance upgrade.. you wont see any power from them.
And finally your CAI, Cat Back and other mods. Where do i start? Cat back wont find you much power, neither will a CAI, and the underdriven pulley...
So basically you have thrown a lot of money into a lot of crap, the clutch was the best of your choices, but i think you paid a little too much for it. As for your tuner... give him a kick in the ass, cuz he hasnt given you one yet..
Life starts at 200km/h
Life starts at 200km/h
97 WRX AWD
Tein Coilovers + EDFC Dampener Control - Whiteline heavy duty Rear sway bar - Whiteline Droplinks front and rear
Turbosmart dual stage boost controller
IHI VF34 Turbo - XForce 3inch TBE - Oversized TMIC - Unichip PiggyBack ECU
PPG Straight cut 1st & 2nd, Slight helical 3rd & 4th and standard fifth - HD Clutch - custom braided clutch line
02 wrx 4pot front calipers - DBA500 two peice slotted rotors - Steel braided Lines
BP98 safe tune @ 171.8awkw
Life starts at 200km/h
Life starts at 200km/h
yeah your probably right.. you hope to see that figure... but your also throwing 10 grand at a car that is almost 10 years old... when shit starts breaking it gets expensive...
Life starts at 200km/h
It doesnt matter what engine. Those minor mods wont do anything worth talking about...
Not entirely accurate, because along with that you will need an exhaust upgrade, a clutch upgrade and lots of tuning. Maybe a CAI, intercooler etc...
The manual gearboxes aren't the toughest things either, and the Diff will eventually go... Not to mention the added wear on the engine....
It's definitely not just 6k....
Plus, forced induction isnt fuel or P-Plate friendly either