Hi, im having nothing but problems with my VZ SV6 2004 commodore, for a start my interior light has constent power i have checked all door switches and played with the light itself nothing seems to work.
My head lights dont always automatically turn them selfs off. Im getting alot of clunking sounds from my gearbox/Diff when i change gears, also some clunking in the front and rear end when i go over slight holes or bumps in the road. The dealer i brought it from has had a look at the bushes he says there fine but i dont believe him.Also my engine twists a fair bit when i rev the car could this be a broken engine mount?
I am very Farmilier with VN-VP as thats the only commodore i have ever worked on, so this is all new to me.
If someone could please give me some answers to my problems that would be great thanks
The engine mounts are very visible on the vz, I just had mine changed because they were squashed, but if they are broken it should be easy to spot.
And don't go to the dealer for simple mechanicals, go to dealer for computer and diagnosis, unless its warranty of course.
Originally Posted by Little Red VZ Go-Kart
1. Why would you want to floor it, or move it to the red line? Especially with the lack of airbags and ABS features!? What do you hope to achieve by that??Originally Posted by HoldenV8
give everything a spray with wd40 wheels brakes that should fix the squeaks
yeah i am close to doing the same, its under warranty as i've only had it for a month but the dealer isnt being very coporative with the hole thing. i think its time to ring consumr affaires, that'll stuff him
If the engine twists it's the mounts. They can look ok but still be stuffed. Might post up a pic of one of my V8 engine mounts out of the car - completely rooted. This should be done under warranty for u. The clunking from the front can also be possibly attributed to the mounts.
Re ur interior light - there is always a constant feed to it. It's the exit path of the current that has options:
A: always an exit: the 'on position',
B: an exit when a door is opened: 'door',
C: and no exit: 'off'.
Test the 'door' setting this way:
1) make sure the dome lamp is on door
2) Starting with the driver's door, undo the door light switch (in the frame) whilst watching the light. Once the switch is out of the frame, the circuit to the dome lamp will be broken. This is what is meant to happen when u close the door. If the light goes out when u take out the driver's door switch, then it is this switch that needs replacement. If the light stays on when u take the switch out, leave the switch hanging out and move to the next door. Every time u move to another door cos the light stays on, leave the switch hanging out in no contact with body metal. If you get thru all switches and power is still at light, put them all back in. If you get to a door switch that cuts the light, it's this switch needing replacement.
3) failing the switches being faulty then the prob would lie in the dome lamp itself. Pull it down and check the contacts
4) if it's all good here it is probably the BCM. Before u go off to the dealer to tell him you think it is the BCM, document all the testing you have done and ask to speak to an auto sparky in the dealership.
Geez it gives me the sh*ts when crap stops working
Last edited by derrro; 06-12-2011 at 01:54 PM.
And dude he is stuffing u around cos U PAID for a warranty and he is doing jack sh*t to honour it. Tell em that you have contacted the ACCC (the national consumer affair body) U can call em on 1300 302 502 or see the web site here: For consumers