got $450 for chrissy and need to do my breaks. 450 is my budget and i need new front and rear disks and pads. happy to throw a few extra dollars at it if it will be worth it.
any suggestions or advice would be great.
are you competent to do the job yourself or will you pay some one to do it?
"The mind is its own place, and in itself, can make a Heaven of Hell, a Hell of Heaven."
apparently wasting my time with 97 cubic inches
milk doesnt come in 1.6 litres
my geminis
nah im capable of doing it myself have done the brakes on a VR, pretty sure its the exact same in a VZ so the 450 is straight to the pads and rotors
rear-http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170653555492?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1423.l2649#ht_2663wt_730
front-http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170653554909?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1423.l2649#ht_2663wt_730
thats what i was looking for as far as disks, just a bit lost on brake pads. looking to spend roughly 60-70 bucks an axle on pads.
use bendix pads about $140 front/rear, here in sa we can get two front discs for a $100 bucks, rears the same price, so about 350 bucks with a can off brake cleaner ,,,
Dont blow the whole lot if you dont need to. Do you really need new discs? If not just get them machined, usually around $25each and a set of good bendix pads should be around the $140 mark. The whole thing should set you back $240 give or take a little.
Unless you need new discs, then thats a different story. Perhaps drive to a trusted mechanic and ask his professional opinion, discs or machine.
Use Bendix GCT's. For what they cost they are unreal. $70 front pads and same price for rear pads. Pulls my VY up heaps better than whatever Holden put in on the production line. As for rotors, maybe DBA slotted? Around $100 each, so you'd be over your budget, but you can't expect decent stuff for less than around $520 all round and that's if you do your own labour.
'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'
i had to by a tourqe wrench and hose clamp when i done my vz brake rotors ,clamp the hose and undo bleed nipple when pushing piston in , so u will not push brake fluid back up to your ABS unit (dont forget to top up reservoir) and u must tourqe the wheel nuts...vs ute has no ABS so less ####ing around when changing pads or rotors
Speak to GSL Rally sport, he does some good brakes for cheap prices, dont go skimp on brakes, QFM HPX Brakes are a good upgrade, well worth the extra imo.
as above, wond need to clamp the hose, but get a clamp to compress the piston... before you drive, pump the brakes 10 or so times to rebuild the pressure etc
Edit again: No torque wrench, as tight as possible is good, if you are a tiny weedy little man (lol) thread lock that shit...
Life starts at 200km/h
im not to keen on blowing it all either, but i am definitely due for you discs and pads.
yes i understand im not going to get great stuff for 450 mark but its my everyday car the gets a burn through the mountains every so often.
found what looks to be an alright little package on ebay - eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d
figured it would be worth grabbing an opinion on.
cheers for the great advice so far
good price
factor in some brake fluid as a fluid flush is a good idea
Originally Posted by Reaper:
Originally Posted by Jecs:
this where i got it from,, clamping the brake hose Videos | www.dba.com.au
standard rear brakes, peformance front brakes, dont sacrifice safety for money.. If your gonna go cheap, at least go standard, as you know they work... $450 is a lot of money too
Life starts at 200km/h
If you live in Melbourne tehre is a place called Better Brakes in Moorabin who always does a good deal on brake components.
Also super stop brakes in Box Hill i think is quite good and reasonably priced.
so am I best off just sticking with genuine parts than trying to do aftermarket on a budget?
easy done, well CJ auto parts has got me so far, might check super stop brakes in boxhill as it is much closer.
but DBA's all round and some pads and some brake fluid for a full system flush sounds like the plan.
cheers for all the help
Pushing fluid back through the ABS unit didn't hurt mine. Same with flushing/bleeding, just like doing a non ABS vehicle.
Non genuine does not necessarily mean that the quality is poorer. On the contrary, Bendix GCT's are so much better than my old factory pads were.
'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'
I upgraded to slotted twice, once with RDA's which were horrible, and then with DBA's which have so far been awesome. I went for ferodo pads which again have been awesome. When I was talking to the guy about it (This guy ONLY sells and fits brakes, he has a warehouse full of them so I assume he knows his stuff) he said the Bendix rep told him that Bendix do not make pads for slotted rotors, they're simply not designed for it. Now I assumed that there wasn't much of a difference so I didn't really care in the past, but the fact that the Bendix rep told this guy that makes me think maybe there's a reason for it... my guess is the rep doesn't want this guy having p***ed off customers saying the product was horrible and not buying it so he told him so he wouldn't sell it that way... just an FYI. Your choice, I'm just letting you know what he told me.
Check this out before you commit to anything.
QFM HPX VT-VZ Police Spec Performance Brake Pads
Life starts at 200km/h
i have heard alot of good things about the QFM pads, but are the not about 120 a set? i cant justify spending that money on a car that doesnt get driven hard enough that frequently
Go to the top of the forum and look in GSL Rallysport. Post in there with all your questions and Greg will give you some honest and professional advice to keep within your budget.