I let this service go a bit longer than normal. (10k)
only thing I did different was let the oil drain for a good 20 minutes even then there was still a minute line of oil draining out.
Me thinks the metal (looks like bearing material) was sitting in the bottom of the sump for a while.
I have seen metal in oil that can stay suspended. This gold stuff sinks straight to the bottom of the oil.
what do you recon? Maybe I have struck it rich!!!
This shot was taken after the oil stood overnight then poured off leaving the bare minimum in the tray.
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How sure are you the "glitter" is not something else externally that has contaminated the drain pan, like debris in the pan before or after dropping the oil?
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Something is on the way out.
The tray was spotless. I wipe it out after using.
I always use Valvoline Engine Armour 10W-30 and Ryco filter.
Just checked the particles and appears it is not attracted to a magnet.
So that means bearing material right?
Block and head are aluminum. So could be almost any part of the engine. Personally I would refill it and drop oil in 1k and see if it's back. Could be something random, sump plug bolt isn't threaded is it?
Wow my oil drain pan is full of crap. Permanent black sludge in the bottom and all sorts of dead insects etc that have ventured in.
looks a bit like bearing ... id be redoing the oil in bout 1000 ks like m1lky said n just check it out again
If you have the coin you can get the oil wear checked. They will analyse the metal in the oil and tell you exactly what it is.
Originally Posted by Little Red VZ Go-Kart
1. Why would you want to floor it, or move it to the red line? Especially with the lack of airbags and ABS features!? What do you hope to achieve by that??Originally Posted by HoldenV8
give everything a spray with wd40 wheels brakes that should fix the squeaks
thats what my mate does, he works for valvoline and analyses oil samples. Not sure what they charge though im sure its not too cheap
Thanks for everyone's feedback.
I gunna get on of those e-monitor kits to check the oil.
I'll let you know how I go.
cheers
Personally i don't believe this will be of much benefit to you because:
The damage (if any) has already occurred.
Taking a sample of oil that is already out of the car and into a drain pan is not an accurate sample.
You shouldn't take 1 oil sample from that particular engine to gauge normal or abnormal wear.
Used oil analysis are not always an effective means of measuring wear.
That sample report does not include a TBN value.
I would be more stringent with your service intervals in future or use the 30 odd dollars for an UOA and put it towards a higher spec oil.
But if you proceed with the test here are 3 samples from mine but I wouldn't directly compare the two. M1 0W40 - 4,531km - 2005 Holden Commodore 3.6L V6 - Bob Is The Oil Guy
I agree, the idea behind oil analysis is preventative maintenance, you run samples every time you change the oil, when there is a spike in iron or something, you know something has failed.
But in this case it might be useful to know what material is in the oil.
Originally Posted by Little Red VZ Go-Kart
1. Why would you want to floor it, or move it to the red line? Especially with the lack of airbags and ABS features!? What do you hope to achieve by that??Originally Posted by HoldenV8
give everything a spray with wd40 wheels brakes that should fix the squeaks
If it is not magnetic then it is probably bearing material... either way it is not good.