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Thread: 3.45/3.46 Diff

  1. #1
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    Default 3.45/3.46 Diff

    The last thing on my list was to change my diff. So today I got my diff swapped for a recondition 3.45 diff. Overall my response is

    Definitely a must for anyone even thinking of doing it, I should have done it sooner!
    Heaps more take off over the 2.87 diff and the car is just a pleasure to drive in auto or active select (im pretty much always in a/s).
    My speedo ended up being about 12 km's out and is getting re-calibrated tomorrow!
    Gaps between all gears are much better suited for urban driving and freeway is great too.

    In all, changing the diff would be my first mod if I could do it all over again!

  2. #2
    richardpalinkas's Avatar
    richardpalinkas is offline Blown Alloytec
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    Definately! A highly looked past mod, improved my 0-100 by nearly half a sec, fuel consumption up about 1 liter per 100km.


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    troykinsvt is offline yes i like fibreglassing
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    for a vt what price ? and auto any problem ?
    stroking is fine but id rather be blown

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    Hey mate what sorta price range are diffs to change and how does it work? Like the exact purpose of it? I dont know much about them.

    I have a 07 SVZ 6 speed manual

    Cheers

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    Search eBay, anywhere between 200 and 800 for a complete dif. The dif is what turns longitudinal power into lateral, as in, transfered the power moving through the tail shaft to the axles and the wheels. The ratio of the dif is how many times the tail shaft has to spin per 1 tyre rotation. Usually going to a lower ratio from 2.89 and changing to 3.46, acceleration increases, as well as torque however sacrifices top speed.


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  7. #7
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    L/100 at around 110km (uphills and downhills) ended up being around 7.7L/100km.
    Im gonna go for a drive tonight and check using the instantaneous fuel reading and see what cruising at 100km is.
    Had it on the dyno today getting the speedo re-calibrated, and comparing to the old diff, the car has picked up even more torque than previously which is always a bonus!
    Overall cost was 1100 (950 for diff without oil) fitted and I have my old diff here in the garage. Would be the same price for vt vx vy.

  8. #8
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    dyno will show higher torque, but less hp


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    Can anyone recommend a decent diff shop in north/east melb? looking a changing to a similar ratio!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doloth View Post
    Can anyone recommend a decent diff shop in north/east melb? looking a changing to a similar ratio!
    Go to Diffs2U, speak to george. You won't be disappointed!

    Quote Originally Posted by richardpalinkas View Post
    dyno will show higher torque, but less hp
    Yeah it did show less rwkw. My 0-100 time increased heaps, its around 6.2 seconds now. Before it was 6.9. Will post vids to prove it before people start saying its a load of crap.

  11. #11
    RiCeY's Avatar
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    No reason to think its crap, changing to that ratio has to make the car quicker.
    Silver Certified.

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    Yeah, just saying since there is always forum wars on how quick someones car is or "just buy a V8". Not trying to prove anything.

    Curious if anyone knows the times (legit times, not like the so called 6.8 for a stock alloytec in the wheels mag) for a VY SS and a VZ SS stock standard?

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    VZ SS was a 14 flat 1/4 mile from memory, not sure on 0-100 time.
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    What else is done to the car to achieve 6.2? My car runs 6.1 with a charger, ran 6.8 without it, 15.1 1/4 mile without charger, yet to test with charger, waiting to fix the ecu.


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    Online stopwatch after recording. Using an average of a few times. Not real accurate but pretty close


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    if you have an iphone you can get apps that measure it but again not sure how accurate...
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    Quote Originally Posted by richardpalinkas View Post
    What else is done to the car to achieve 6.2? My car runs 6.1 with a charger, ran 6.8 without it, 15.1 1/4 mile without charger, yet to test with charger, waiting to fix the ecu.
    Off the top of my head,

    Full Length Comp Pacemaker Extractors
    Stainless High Flow Cats (I think 100 CPI)
    2 1/4 Twin Catback
    Growler Intake
    Mace Spacers
    Custom Dyno Tuned ECU
    20% Underdrive Balancer and Nulon Pulleys
    Reconditioned 3.45 LSD diff

    (I might be forgetting something..)

    And then just maintenance...

    New Spark Plugs
    New Coil packs
    New Engine Oil

    Everything is in top shape.

    Heres the 0-100 video, Its been trimmed exactly. I took off slow so you could see 0km to 1km on the digital speedo.

    http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/8087/rjy.mp4

  19. #19
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    Update on the diff....

    When i got home yesterday from work i noticed a clunking when rolling up my driveway. It does it in reverse as well, its like its slipping and knocking...
    Driving seems fine though, it only happens around 0-15 km. I jacked the car up, put in neutral and locked the wheels and moved the driveshaft with my hand and i think there is too much play (compared it to our ve ssv).
    The diff seems to be quiet when we spin the wheels but the clunk sounds like its from the middle of the car. But, when driving it feels like the diff is knocking...

    Im going to call the place that did it tomorrow and try get it sorted.

    Anyone have any ideas? Its new for god sake, my old diff never clunked...

  20. #20
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    Was the old dif LSD? I noticed that the cones slip and make a somewhat clunk, could be similar


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  21. #21
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    Yeah the 2.87 LSD diff, I've noticed it clunks into drive or reverse alot more... When watching the drive shaft while its put into gear, it spins around a cm, and sometimes does two spins, like a big spin then half a second after a little spin. The driveshaft on our ss looks alot more tighter when put into gears...

    Im really just hoping the diff isnt screwed? I did the 1000km wear in and never do burnouts etc. The only thing that has happened is that its chirped from first to second once or twice when accelerating a little harder (while overtaking). Seriously the diff can't be that weak can it? I mean the old diff is in perfect working order and its 7 years old...

    The problem only started yesterday, it was fine before this.

    Could it be the universal link bearing? Or is it most likely a problem with the diff? And should i not drive the car?

  22. #22
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  23. #23
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  24. #24
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    whats the dyno hp and torque figures? in what gear?


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  25. #25
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    Could be incorrect backlash, they should be able to adjust it.


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