Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Alloytec 3.6 easiest way to remove & replace Engine in Vz Sedan

Gregor- 1

New Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Victoria
Members Ride
vt ss , Vz 3.6 , Vx
What is the easiest way to remove & replace my alloytec engine in my Vz , I have removed heaps of Commodore engines Vl Vr Vs VT Vx Vu , I only need to remove & replace the V6 Alloytec Engine , I have a 2 ton engine crane & stands good work shop , whats is the best way to do this just unbolt every thing on the engine & leave the Auto gearbox in it just unbolt the torque converter threw the starter motor hole & push it back onto the Auto or drop the whole K-Frame unbolt strut tops Engine & auto gearbox the lot & wheel it out , i,m a bit stumped as the best & easiest way to replace the alloytec engine , the new Engine i have is Complete with loom every thing , Could some one please help as to what way to do this , Thank you Greg
 

99notout

Active Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2013
Messages
589
Reaction score
140
Points
43
Location
Adelaide
Members Ride
VZ Equip Wagon
Disconnect battery. Attach lifting hooks, disconnect fuel, coolant, power steering etc hoses. Remove radiator. Undo nuts on bottom of mounts, remove steering rack (it will foul the sump), undo rear crossmember, then trans mount and remove crossmember and lift the lot out the front of the vehicle. Be careful not to let the motor swing into the AC condenser. Good luck, this is really condensed.
 

Silverbird

(Blake)
Joined
Oct 4, 2013
Messages
353
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Age
54
Location
Brisbane
Members Ride
VZ Executive Station Wagon
If you could update us on how you go it would be greatly appreciated too.
 

Gregor- 1

New Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Victoria
Members Ride
vt ss , Vz 3.6 , Vx
Vz alloytec Engine Removal

Finally got the Engine removed - Big job lots of work after lots of advice & thinking i decided to Wheel the lot out the front of the car , Engine -Auto-K frame the lot , Bloody big job it was the easiest way as there is no way you can remove the bolts from the torque converter through a little hole that big , through the little plate under the bottom of the auto or through the starter motor hole & also to unbolt the auto from behind the rear of the engine , No room - I just took me time & unbolted every thing that i needed to from removed the radiator & all the hoses etc , I tagged all the plugs that i needed to unplug as there is some just a few alternator wires starter motor wires the battery wires & wires to the Ecu only 1 plug etc etc its easier if you rap some masking tape around them & write on them what they are ,unclip fuel lines & air manifold lines etc Unbolt the Exhaust from the flanges , cross member & the coolest part about it no auto trans fluid mess i unbolted the 3 bolts of the rubber mount on the yoke & the yoke stays in the auto , i had a trolley jack that had a steel plate welded to a pin so i could put that into the top of my trolley jack so i put that under the cross member , undid the brake lines put some plugs in the end of the lines so i wouldnt loose to much brake fluid , unclipped the 2 sensors , Undid the 2 top bolts for the struts , Undid the 4 bolts for the K frame & they are 2 different size heads on them , typical Holden before you remove the 4 K frame Bolts make sure you have a Engine crane or Jack under the K Frame I just used my 2 ton Engine crane to hold up the K Frame & i then put a piece of metal channel right across the under carriage behind the radiator on the sub frame & used a block & tackle to lift up the car , dont worry about trying to undo all the plugs & wiring behind the motor & on the auto , you can undo the the 2 big wiring plugs either side of the back of the Auto one has a blue pin in it you pull the pin & slide a small screw driver in there & it will come out & release the plug at the same time , once you lift it up a fair way you can get in there very easy to unplug every thing all the Auto & wiring behind the motor is on its own loom so you can unplug 1 plug behind the right hand side of the motor & thats the loom that goes through the left hand side firewall so you dont have to remove that big plug , all the autos wiring & 1 plug behind the left hand rear of the motor & that loom will sit on the left hand side top strut mount , To easy thanx Holden for that at least ya did some thing right, You dont have to remove any of the huge wiring loom on top of the motor , So funny with the alternator & Air con pump you remove the nuts from them & then have to screw out the long threaded shafts with a 8mm small socket , then when every thing was disconneted i just wheeled the K frame out withe the motor & auto , it was a big job all good though- Was some thing new & was totally different than FB EH HR HK HT HG HQ HJ HX WB WH VL VT VX VU , Wasnt hard Just a lot of stuffing around & thinking about what your doing was very interesting as to the new Alloytec Engines & design , A lot has changed , Hope this helps a lot of Commodore Fans out there & our big boy toys we love , If you need any help - I,m here to answer ya questions , Now just have to do it all backwards reinstalling the new Engine = LOl grrr Thanx to all that replied
 

Silverbird

(Blake)
Joined
Oct 4, 2013
Messages
353
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Age
54
Location
Brisbane
Members Ride
VZ Executive Station Wagon
Finally got the Engine removed - Big job lots of work after lots of advice & thinking i decided to Wheel the lot out the front of the car , Engine -Auto-K frame the lot , Bloody big job it was the easiest way as there is no way you can remove the bolts from the torque converter through a little hole that big , through the little plate under the bottom of the auto or through the starter motor hole & also to unbolt the auto from behind the rear of the engine , No room - I just took me time & unbolted every thing that i needed to from removed the radiator & all the hoses etc , I tagged all the plugs that i needed to unplug as there is some just a few alternator wires starter motor wires the battery wires & wires to the Ecu only 1 plug etc etc its easier if you rap some masking tape around them & write on them what they are ,unclip fuel lines & air manifold lines etc Unbolt the Exhaust from the flanges , cross member & the coolest part about it no auto trans fluid mess i unbolted the 3 bolts of the rubber mount on the yoke & the yoke stays in the auto , i had a trolley jack that had a steel plate welded to a pin so i could put that into the top of my trolley jack so i put that under the cross member , undid the brake lines put some plugs in the end of the lines so i wouldnt loose to much brake fluid , unclipped the 2 sensors , Undid the 2 top bolts for the struts , Undid the 4 bolts for the K frame & they are 2 different size heads on them , typical Holden before you remove the 4 K frame Bolts make sure you have a Engine crane or Jack under the K Frame I just used my 2 ton Engine crane to hold up the K Frame & i then put a piece of metal channel right across the under carriage behind the radiator on the sub frame & used a block & tackle to lift up the car , dont worry about trying to undo all the plugs & wiring behind the motor & on the auto , you can undo the the 2 big wiring plugs either side of the back of the Auto one has a blue pin in it you pull the pin & slide a small screw driver in there & it will come out & release the plug at the same time , once you lift it up a fair way you can get in there very easy to unplug every thing all the Auto & wiring behind the motor is on its own loom so you can unplug 1 plug behind the right hand side of the motor & thats the loom that goes through the left hand side firewall so you dont have to remove that big plug , all the autos wiring & 1 plug behind the left hand rear of the motor & that loom will sit on the left hand side top strut mount , To easy thanx Holden for that at least ya did some thing right, You dont have to remove any of the huge wiring loom on top of the motor , So funny with the alternator & Air con pump you remove the nuts from them & then have to screw out the long threaded shafts with a 8mm small socket , then when every thing was disconneted i just wheeled the K frame out withe the motor & auto , it was a big job all good though- Was some thing new & was totally different than FB EH HR HK HT HG HQ HJ HX WB WH VL VT VX VU , Wasnt hard Just a lot of stuffing around & thinking about what your doing was very interesting as to the new Alloytec Engines & design , A lot has changed , Hope this helps a lot of Commodore Fans out there & our big boy toys we love , If you need any help - I,m here to answer ya questions , Now just have to do it all backwards reinstalling the new Engine = LOl grrr Thanx to all that replied

Hi Gregor

Thank you for taking the time to reply in such detail. It will help out plenty of people who will need to do the same in the future. Again, once you get the engine back in, let us know. Best of luck :)
 

checky

New Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2016
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Clare south Australia
Members Ride
Vz sv6 utility
When i removed my alloytec engine i just un did the torque converter from the flywheel and lifted it out. But since i refitted the new engine it will crank but wont fire up has anyone had this problem?
 

Diggarabbit

New Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
39
Location
Queensland
Members Ride
Vk rb30t
No room through the starter hole? I just removed the engine leaving trans in car. Piece of piss. Heaps of room through the starter hole to remove converter bolts. Makes life much easier to remove left hand exhaust manifold . Trans dipstick tube. Right hand exhaust from manifold back.
 

Shane foreman

New Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2021
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
56
Location
Perth wa
Members Ride
Vt Holden commodore
Vz alloytec Engine Removal

Finally got the Engine removed - Big job lots of work after lots of advice & thinking i decided to Wheel the lot out the front of the car , Engine -Auto-K frame the lot , Bloody big job it was the easiest way as there is no way you can remove the bolts from the torque converter through a little hole that big , through the little plate under the bottom of the auto or through the starter motor hole & also to unbolt the auto from behind the rear of the engine , No room - I just took me time & unbolted every thing that i needed to from removed the radiator & all the hoses etc , I tagged all the plugs that i needed to unplug as there is some just a few alternator wires starter motor wires the battery wires & wires to the Ecu only 1 plug etc etc its easier if you rap some masking tape around them & write on them what they are ,unclip fuel lines & air manifold lines etc Unbolt the Exhaust from the flanges , cross member & the coolest part about it no auto trans fluid mess i unbolted the 3 bolts of the rubber mount on the yoke & the yoke stays in the auto , i had a trolley jack that had a steel plate welded to a pin so i could put that into the top of my trolley jack so i put that under the cross member , undid the brake lines put some plugs in the end of the lines so i wouldnt loose to much brake fluid , unclipped the 2 sensors , Undid the 2 top bolts for the struts , Undid the 4 bolts for the K frame & they are 2 different size heads on them , typical Holden before you remove the 4 K frame Bolts make sure you have a Engine crane or Jack under the K Frame I just used my 2 ton Engine crane to hold up the K Frame & i then put a piece of metal channel right across the under carriage behind the radiator on the sub frame & used a block & tackle to lift up the car , dont worry about trying to undo all the plugs & wiring behind the motor & on the auto , you can undo the the 2 big wiring plugs either side of the back of the Auto one has a blue pin in it you pull the pin & slide a small screw driver in there & it will come out & release the plug at the same time , once you lift it up a fair way you can get in there very easy to unplug every thing all the Auto & wiring behind the motor is on its own loom so you can unplug 1 plug behind the right hand side of the motor & thats the loom that goes through the left hand side firewall so you dont have to remove that big plug , all the autos wiring & 1 plug behind the left hand rear of the motor & that loom will sit on the left hand side top strut mount , To easy thanx Holden for that at least ya did some thing right, You dont have to remove any of the huge wiring loom on top of the motor , So funny with the alternator & Air con pump you remove the nuts from them & then have to screw out the long threaded shafts with a 8mm small socket , then when every thing was disconneted i just wheeled the K frame out withe the motor & auto , it was a big job all good though- Was some thing new & was totally different than FB EH HR HK HT HG HQ HJ HX WB WH VL VT VX VU , Wasnt hard Just a lot of stuffing around & thinking about what your doing was very interesting as to the new Alloytec Engines & design , A lot has changed , Hope this helps a lot of Commodore Fans out there & our big boy toys we love , If you need any help - I,m here to answer ya questions , Now just have to do it all backwards reinstalling the new Engine = LOl grrr Thanx to all that replied
 
Top