Timing cover - help

[JarBro]

Hi guys, just replaced my leaking seal on my timing cover (vz 3.6l wagon)

Now the car will not start. It all seemed to go back together fine, the main things I move out of the way were steering pump, Air con and alternator and the ECU system.
I was able to leave the valve covers on.
The car turns over when trying to start and the first time it started for about 3secs then stalled, since then it does not seem to want to run.
One thing i noticed when putting the harmonic balancer back on was there did not seem to be a key of some description as the pulley had a cut out but I could not locate anything on the hub of crankshaft (is there suppose to be a key ?) - just wondering would this effect the operation as it is still spinning when the car is trying to start.
I have researched the CAS but for this alloytec it seems it is towards the back of the engine so I don't think this could be a problem.

I have not checked for spark/fuel or compression at this stage as I did not seem to go near these parts. The only other thing I can think of is the 2 big leads that go to the ECU got mixed up and threw a fuel low take to dealer fault but once i swapped the plugs over it fired up for the first time and lasted 3 seconds.
I dont think this would have caused any long term problems.

Anyways hoping a couple of experts can give me some pointers on where to look next, I have the haynes repair manual but find that very limited.
Thanks guys, will check back soon.

 

[diysv6]

I have attached schematics of the connections on the large Delphi connectors on the VZ Alloytec ECU. (supplied by a forum member - many thanks)
From memory, connector A is the lower of the two on the front of the ECU.
The schematic could give you an idea of what may be non functional if you have reversed the A and B connectors and powered it up.
Maybe GM/Holden made ECU such that the A and B are "interchangeable" and not damage anything.

 

[JarBro]

Thank you Diysv6

I have since checked and i am getting spark and fuel - it did fire back up at me burning the hairs off my hand -lol

Is there a special way to check the ECU to find out if i have cooked it ?

I have used a OBD2 and it came up with a P0118 and P2229 - nothing that seems to be anything related.

 

[diysv6]

I had a look at some DTCs from around the place - they are maybe not exact for the VZ but here goes.

Some members may have accurate listing for the VZ Alloytec.


P0118 Haynes Manual 41743 and another source have - Engine coolant temperature. Sensor fault high voltage. Below the oil filter housing I think.


P2229 Haynes Manual 41743 and P2229 from a VE list - barometric sensor Voltage Hi. Suggests a faulty sensor or faulty ECU. The sensor is at the rear of the Intake Manifold I think.




I have looked at the schematics in this post, what I see are the following cross connects. (I think my eyes are reading the fine print OK).
A56 connects to the barometric sensor 131; B56 goes to Accelerator pedal position sensor 186.
A23 goes to Engine coolant sensor 133, B23 goes to the ABS/Traction ECM area 147 .

Are you getting any DTC or other indications from the Acc Pedal position and/or the ABS devices?
The various +12V feeds on the B connector could have fed the +12V where it may have zapped the ECU or an external device.

I think the Tech2 may be your next step.

Hope this helps you out.

 

[JarBro]

Yes they are the correct codes, but as I have just replaced the timing cover and radiator I was hoping they would clear once I was able to get the car started.

I don't think these things would stop the car running ? Hopefully someone can answer this.

Cheers.

 

[mad mick]

there are 2 earths that you need to disconnect one on drivers side head and one on passengers side think there might be one on the control box on front of engine drivers side make sure they are all conected