pbax
New Member
I thought I would make a quick post on changing the fuel filter with a few pictures as well since there doesn't seem to be any threads anywhere with pictures. Hopefully it will be of use to someone and save yourself some coin by doing the job at home. Also do this at your own risk, If you break your car don’t blame me, I suggest wearing gloves and some safety glasses/goggles in case fuel decides to spray everywhere when you remove the filter, hopefully it won’t if you de-pressurise the system properly. If you have any doubts on your mechanical ability get a pro to do the job. Put an oil pan or something underneath too as any fuel remaining in the filter after de-pressurisation will run out.
Changed the fuel filter with some help from a text off another forum below. Cheapest filters I have found are GM ones from Holden. I also took some pictures, sorry about the quality I did the job by torch light, hopefully it might be a help to some people especially as I haven’t found any pics online with the removal tool.
The only things I did different to the guide below were:
Point A: only jacked the right rear and put it on a stand, removing the wheel makes for easy access
Point D: cranked the engine twice then removed the fuel filler cap
-after the second crank I got the Service Vehicle Soon alarm on the dash, it continued for point L, when I tried to actually start the car first time it wouldn’t start, (still with SVS going) second crank it went no problem and SVS was gone once the engine normally. Apparently if you get a check engine light after you can discontent the battery for 10 minutes to clear it.
THE PROCEDURE:
A: Make sure you have the correct replacement part - Jack the vehicle up at the rear and place it safely on car stands, resting on a solid surface. (This step is important so that the car doesn’t fall on you!)
B: Check that your vehicle has one of the canister fuel filter types shown in the photos below... The Fuel filter is normally located on the forward (front side) of the fuel tank on the RHS of the vehicle tucked up near the floor pan behind the rear axle. It should have a black plastic retaining clip holding it in place, against the car body. (The genuine Holden replacement Filter provides a new body clip (large black Zip tie) with each new filter) – It’s there to hold the filter against the body and stop the plastic fuel lines flapping around (The fuel lines will eventually fracture if you don’t re-install the clip)
NOTE: Some of the VZ Utes / Maloo’s etc don’t have any external fuel filter. On these vehicles the fuel filter is a different arrangement and is part of the fuel pump assembly which is inside the fuel tank. There are separate threads in the LS1 forum that explain what these are and what to do if they fail.
C: Open the engine bay and remove the Fuel Pump Relay.
D: Turn Ignition ON & Crank the engine - it will stall in a few seconds. (This step is necessary as it depressurises the fuel system and stop fuel spraying all over the place. – Once the engine has stalled TURN THE IGNITION OFF – and REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY.
E: Get under the vehicle - Insert the removal tool on the outlet side (“flat side”) of the Fuel filter and gently wrap it around the old fuel filter outlet tube – then push it into the connector as far as it will go. You may have to rotate the tool through 90 degrees as you insert it – there are 4 tangs inside the Quick connector that need to be unlocked. The tangs are hidden inside the Quick type connector – you can’t see them from the outside, but you may “feel them” against the tip of the tool. (I have attached some pictures showing how the connectors work with the tool so you can see how delicate they are.)
F: Holding the back of the removal tool firmly, now gently push the Quick connector towards the removal tool (you may feel a gentle click).
G: Now crisply pull the Quick connector away from the tool and off the fuel filter tube. It should come away cleanly. Some fuel will dribble out of the fuel line, and out of the old fuel filter. Try not to make a mess or get fuel in your eyes.
H: Wrap a clean rag around the filter / loose connector and repeat steps E through G on the other side of the fuel filter. Take the old filter and the removal tool and place them away from the work area. The Removal part of the process is now completed!
I: Orient the new filter correctly (Inlet / Outlet sides) onto the correct lines. (Round side is Inlet – Flat side is outlet)
J: Install the new filter by pushing the Quick Type connectors home – you will feel and here the “click” as the tangs engage the locking ring on the filter tube. (It should look like it did when you started – everything neatly inside the connector.... The Reinstallation is now complete.
K: Re-install the Fuel pump relay.
L: Turn the ignition to “ON” - cycle it to OFF / ON once or twice but do not start the car – Listen for the Fuel Pump--. Turn the ignition to OFF and remove the keys – Now go back and check for any fuel leaks.....
M: If there are no leaks – YIPPEE – GOOD JOB....
N: If you have leaks you may have to remove the offending connector, clean it and reseat it!
Changed the fuel filter with some help from a text off another forum below. Cheapest filters I have found are GM ones from Holden. I also took some pictures, sorry about the quality I did the job by torch light, hopefully it might be a help to some people especially as I haven’t found any pics online with the removal tool.
The only things I did different to the guide below were:
Point A: only jacked the right rear and put it on a stand, removing the wheel makes for easy access
Point D: cranked the engine twice then removed the fuel filler cap
-after the second crank I got the Service Vehicle Soon alarm on the dash, it continued for point L, when I tried to actually start the car first time it wouldn’t start, (still with SVS going) second crank it went no problem and SVS was gone once the engine normally. Apparently if you get a check engine light after you can discontent the battery for 10 minutes to clear it.
THE PROCEDURE:
A: Make sure you have the correct replacement part - Jack the vehicle up at the rear and place it safely on car stands, resting on a solid surface. (This step is important so that the car doesn’t fall on you!)
B: Check that your vehicle has one of the canister fuel filter types shown in the photos below... The Fuel filter is normally located on the forward (front side) of the fuel tank on the RHS of the vehicle tucked up near the floor pan behind the rear axle. It should have a black plastic retaining clip holding it in place, against the car body. (The genuine Holden replacement Filter provides a new body clip (large black Zip tie) with each new filter) – It’s there to hold the filter against the body and stop the plastic fuel lines flapping around (The fuel lines will eventually fracture if you don’t re-install the clip)
NOTE: Some of the VZ Utes / Maloo’s etc don’t have any external fuel filter. On these vehicles the fuel filter is a different arrangement and is part of the fuel pump assembly which is inside the fuel tank. There are separate threads in the LS1 forum that explain what these are and what to do if they fail.
C: Open the engine bay and remove the Fuel Pump Relay.
D: Turn Ignition ON & Crank the engine - it will stall in a few seconds. (This step is necessary as it depressurises the fuel system and stop fuel spraying all over the place. – Once the engine has stalled TURN THE IGNITION OFF – and REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY.
E: Get under the vehicle - Insert the removal tool on the outlet side (“flat side”) of the Fuel filter and gently wrap it around the old fuel filter outlet tube – then push it into the connector as far as it will go. You may have to rotate the tool through 90 degrees as you insert it – there are 4 tangs inside the Quick connector that need to be unlocked. The tangs are hidden inside the Quick type connector – you can’t see them from the outside, but you may “feel them” against the tip of the tool. (I have attached some pictures showing how the connectors work with the tool so you can see how delicate they are.)
F: Holding the back of the removal tool firmly, now gently push the Quick connector towards the removal tool (you may feel a gentle click).
G: Now crisply pull the Quick connector away from the tool and off the fuel filter tube. It should come away cleanly. Some fuel will dribble out of the fuel line, and out of the old fuel filter. Try not to make a mess or get fuel in your eyes.
H: Wrap a clean rag around the filter / loose connector and repeat steps E through G on the other side of the fuel filter. Take the old filter and the removal tool and place them away from the work area. The Removal part of the process is now completed!
I: Orient the new filter correctly (Inlet / Outlet sides) onto the correct lines. (Round side is Inlet – Flat side is outlet)
J: Install the new filter by pushing the Quick Type connectors home – you will feel and here the “click” as the tangs engage the locking ring on the filter tube. (It should look like it did when you started – everything neatly inside the connector.... The Reinstallation is now complete.
K: Re-install the Fuel pump relay.
L: Turn the ignition to “ON” - cycle it to OFF / ON once or twice but do not start the car – Listen for the Fuel Pump--. Turn the ignition to OFF and remove the keys – Now go back and check for any fuel leaks.....
M: If there are no leaks – YIPPEE – GOOD JOB....
N: If you have leaks you may have to remove the offending connector, clean it and reseat it!
