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Looking to buy a VZ

Lachstar

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Been wanting to buy a Holden ute for ages and I've finally saved up some money. I'm looking at an 06 Holden vz badgeless ute. What are the pros and cons of this ute? How's it on fuel? Does it use a lot of oil? Are parts cheap or expensive to replace? Sorry for all the noob questions just want to know what I'm in for if I decide to buy it!! Thanks in advance! :)
 

diysv6

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What are the vital statistics of the ute please?
 

Domowa

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Hi Lachstar,

The VZ Commodore in IMO has its ups and downs (some will agree, some will not). I personally own a VZ (LEO 175Kw) and I haven't had any MAJOR issues *touches wood*. Here are some things I have learnt while owning a VZ Alloytec:

* CHECK THE SERVICE HISTORY - The VZ's are prone to Sludge if not taken care of... I replace my oil every 5,000Km (with Nulon 5-30) - some people may choose 7,500KM
* Check near the oil sump, if you see any red coolant ask the owner ASAP, VZs are prone to shitty water pumps/seals (I just had mine replaced at 136,000km for around $500 - although this included water pump, hoses, gaskets etc)
* Fuel isnt too bad - mine is around 13.4L on 98 RON Petrol - i do a lot of small trips
* Havent seen her chew up much oil
* Parts are cheap (Depends where you get them, prices are good at super cheap and repco)

Let me know if you have more questions happy to answer
 

Lachstar

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So it's a 3.6L alloytec, it's done just under 100,000. It's a 6 speed manual. Sorry I'm not quite sure what you meant by vital statistics
 

mossy14

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Thier ###ing **** dnt buy one ild rather my vr back tbh
 

mossy14

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Save ur pennies or get a loan and go ve
 

MorganVZ

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Why are you buying it, are you using it for work ie Chippy?
 

Lachstar

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I'm buying it for an everyday car, will be used for getting to and from work. Would be travelling about 500-600km a week!

Mossy14 could you possibly explain why are they **** (just wanting to know) and what ve should I get?
 

diysv6

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So it's a 3.6L alloytec, it's done just under 100,000. It's a 6 speed manual. Sorry I'm not quite sure what you meant by vital statistics

In the suburbs, my SV6 5sp auto gets between 14 - 12l/100km. Most trips are 5 - 7 km or shorter - each way.
Trips around 50km about 8-9L/100km mainly on a motorway. Long trips Dist to empty (DTE) is around 800km +) (Air conditioning is never turned off all year round)
Does not require engine oil top up, oil and filter changed every 6 months independent of KMs.
I get about 45,000 to 50,000Kms out of a set of Bridgestone Adrenalins.

Thanks for the information. Sorry my epistle is a bit long.

This is my take on a VZ and some of the things I look for in them, some issues I have experienced and friends have told me their issues.
By no means the best list but it works for me. Prices are about what non dealer charges seem to be around the place, dealers are more in most cases.

What does badgeless mean?
Has it been modified, engine, suspension, rims etc?

With 100,000km on the clock, and 9 years old, a lot of service items may be due, and niggly problems present.
Are there any service records? Is it a private or dealer sale? Does it have a roadworthy certificate. (My experience in Victoria - a small mark on the windscreen meant replacement. The inspector seemed to have special lighting installed to detect windscreen blemishes). Dealer sale may offer limited Warranty, 30 days etc.

Get an independent check done if possible. Warranty items on a 9 year old vehicle could be somewhat limited.
If the inspection finds faults, try to get them fixed before you part with your hard earned $$$.
This is by no means the absolute list but to me they are VZ worthy questions if you can get answers.

Get a Tech2 on the car and get printout of the history if possible, and any DTCs in memory. (Dealer about $120 or so).

Checkout the starting and idle qualities as the ECU ($1000+) can be intermittently on the way out.
Idle under load eg AC, also road test- plugs maybe ignition coils (( DIY $500 - $900 depending on Chinese/holden parts used). O2 sensors ( DIY about $500 for 4 sensors), fuel injectors (DIY $300 - $600 china/Holden parts) etc.

Manual Transmission fluid
Clutch feel, slippage etc
Rotors & pads,
Handbrake drum/pads
Brake fluid change
Tail shaft bearing

Engine mounts, gearbox mount
Engine timing chains, ($1000 - $1500 non dealer - dealers rumoured at about $2000)
Timing cover leaks, ($800 - $900 at dealer)
Sludge check to dip stick, open oil filter housing. ( replace motor, good wrecker unit with labour ($1800 -+++)).
Check the PCV orifice is clear and breathing well. ( Oil consumption, blow-by, worn rings etc - see wrecker motor suggestion)
Oil in the inlet manifold intake and oiled up Throttle body butterfly. Any catch cans installed?
Oil and filter change (DIY $40 - $70. Depends on brands and specials)

Radiator small cracks in the tanks etc (DIY $150 with a cheap radiator - pay up to $240 for the Holden radiator from memory)
Radiator coolant change. (Holden is about $50 for their coolant, third party coolant is cheaper).
Thermostat housing leaking/seepage, O rings etc (DIY $200 for housing and thermostat + extra for O rings, main coolant hoses, radiator cap)
Water pump seepage. leaks. (DIY $30 - $130 depending brand of pump)
Heater valve (DIY valve and quick connect hoses (non Holden) $65 + any extras)

Suspension rubber bushes in Z bar - front and rear. (DIY Nolathane/rubber $230 + wheel alignment $50 - $70
Front LCA inner bushes chopped out. (DIY about $80 plus wheel alignment)
Steering box slop, oil leaks, tie rod ends, split concertina boots. (Exchange about $250 plus fitting & wheel alignment)
Front suspension upper strut bearings. (DIY $.............)
Sway bar link pins - bushes etc. (DIY links rubbers (ball joints x 2) + chassis bushes $150)

Diff leaks at pinion and axle shafts
Concertina boots not cracked
Rear suspension all rubber bushes not chopped out - IRS or Leaf springs?

Interior - electric driver's seat works OK?
Door lock actuators are smooth and prompt operation.
Hood lining has not drooped under the sun visors.
Electric Mirrors & Fast glass OK.
CD/radio working properly (find out the security code) Tech2
Both keys work properly, two button gaskets are intact.
Handbrake works OK
AC works to all parts of the cabin.
Heater works
Condition of spare tyre - check the age of the tyre - some recommend 6 years life then discard it. Full size spare or 80KMph limited speed type.
Exterior: Walk around - panel fit, solid colour match, mica/metallic paint panel match - bingle, accidents etc.
Car sits easily on road. Back wheel camber not V8 supercar. Rims and tyres are correct for the model.
Car is not lowered - if lowered, what suspension springs/shockers system etc.?
 
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mossy14

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Nice post wht he said haha, thier okay i guess good 4 work, my beef wif vzs is jst the way they drive idk wht it is but i dnt like it lol and jst feel thier engines r fragile scared 2 put my foot down the one time i did i got warning lights and whole car started shaking thought i snapped a engine mount but restarted the car and wad all good, its mainly a preference thg tho i wad hyped 2 get my vz thn after a week i was like wtf did i buy this but jst drive one 4 a while feel how it steers etc main thg tht pisses me off
 
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