VZ Engine oil flush and a few noise questions

[sshh]

Hi,

I have recently picked up a VZ Berlina 3.6 with just under 180,000 on the clock, after reading a few posts recently regarding sludging in these engines I would like to do a couple of 1000km oil and filter changes for piece of mind. (doesn't look too bad under the oil cap, and dealer had it serviced when I purchased)

Now even though a synthetic oil is recommended for these engines can I use a mineral 10w-30 (or 5w-30?) just for a couple of 1000km changes? then revert to synthetic for normal 5000km changes?

It has a slight metallic rattle at 1500rpm which after some research sounds like it is the exhaust heat shields or something loose in the cats or exhaust system (which is what it sounds like). I will get under to check it out however if its the heat shields is there a common way to fix it? bend them out/in further? tighten the bolts securing them?

The other annoying thing is the little bit of belt slip noise that I get at idle, at the moment it seems to do it more once the engine has warmed up. I have changed the idler pulley, tensioner assembly and the drive belt and the noise is less than before but still there. I read a couple of posts that suggests that the noise could be due to the PS pulley not being aligned properly from factory? Has anyone else gone further with this and found a fix?

The last two items I have is a squeaky steering wheel, sounds like I have to lube up where it goes through the firewall. How the hell do I get my hands up there with the ABS lines in the way from the top and the exhaust in the way from the bottom?

Also noisy (squeak/creek) brake pedal, I have tried to spray the pivot point on the brake pedal arm but it sounds like its coming from within the rubber boot that goes through the fire wall to the master cylinder??

Any help much appreciated.

 

[Benboy]

If you purchased the vehicle from a Dealer or Used Car Yard then surely State Legislation provides YOU with a Statutory Warranty in order that squeaky steering wheel, brake pedal
or anything else that is faulty, can all be rectified at THEIR expense !!

 

[loopie]

Hi,

I have recently picked up a VZ Berlina 3.6 with just under 180,000 on the clock, after reading a few posts recently regarding sludging in these engines I would like to do a couple of 1000km oil and filter changes for piece of mind. (doesn't look too bad under the oil cap, and dealer had it serviced when I purchased)

Now even though a synthetic oil is recommended for these engines can I use a mineral 10w-30 (or 5w-30?) just for a couple of 1000km changes? then revert to synthetic for normal 5000km changes?

It has a slight metallic rattle at 1500rpm which after some research sounds like it is the exhaust heat shields or something loose in the cats or exhaust system (which is what it sounds like). I will get under to check it out however if its the heat shields is there a common way to fix it? bend them out/in further? tighten the bolts securing them?

The other annoying thing is the little bit of belt slip noise that I get at idle, at the moment it seems to do it more once the engine has warmed up. I have changed the idler pulley, tensioner assembly and the drive belt and the noise is less than before but still there. I read a couple of posts that suggests that the noise could be due to the PS pulley not being aligned properly from factory? Has anyone else gone further with this and found a fix?

The last two items I have is a squeaky steering wheel, sounds like I have to lube up where it goes through the firewall. How the hell do I get my hands up there with the ABS lines in the way from the top and the exhaust in the way from the bottom?

Also noisy (squeak/creek) brake pedal, I have tried to spray the pivot point on the brake pedal arm but it sounds like its coming from within the rubber boot that goes through the fire wall to the master cylinder??

Any help much appreciated.

for your oil flushes use a diesel grade oil, as it contains better engine cleaning properties, its even listed in my Harley handbook as acceptable oil too use......your belt start your motor and let it idle spray talcum (baby)powder on the belt,,,could also be coming from air compressor clutch,,, the other issue easy fix turn up your radio volume no more sqeaks

 

[shadetreemechanic]

for your oil flushes use a diesel grade oil, as it contains better engine cleaning properties, its even listed in my Harley handbook as acceptable oil too use......your belt start your motor and let it idle spray talcum (baby)powder on the belt,,,could also be coming from air compressor clutch,,, the other issue easy fix turn up your radio volume no more sqeaks

Be careful with diesel engine oil as depending upon the condition of the internals its likely to dislodge lots of crap which can block your pickup or at least block your oil filter in short order leading to unfiltered dirty oil going straight thru your bearings.

I would just run a couple of changes of regular API SN rated mineral oil for short intervals. Change filters every time too.

Also remember "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

 

[diysv6]

Re -The heat shield rattle. Be very certain that is where the noise is.

It can also be the A/C solid pipe into the firewall, (and some of the timing chains giving an audible signal of some wear). It is intriguing that you appear to have other firewall noises, steering wheel and brakes. Ensure that your firewall is still glued all round to the cabin floor pan. They can come away, factory glue fails. My VT did this and gave me water into the passenger floor mats. Holden had a special "glue" to reseal the firewall.

Worth checking the PCV is working OK also.

Check the inlet air intake tract from the air-cleaner for excessive engine oil up to and including coating the throttle butterfly plate etc. The inlet manifold could be quite dirty inside.
Worn rings and combustion byproducts will slowly gunk up the crankcase and the engine tappet covers if the PCV is not working properly.
This could indicate a fumey engine and a possibility for sludge build up in the longer term.

The engine cover gasket is not inexpensive. Maybe, for peace of mind lift the odd bank engine cover - the condition of the overhead camshaft gear and cylinder head will dictate if you need to continue normal oil change intervals or go down the expensive track of multiple oil/filter changes and hope you have got the main sludge problem before the oil pump intake strainer possibly gunks up. Also, this a chance to clean out the PCV metering orifices if they are gunked up.


Once you get the engine cover off, then this opens up the spark plug condition (normal life about 100,000Km, you have 180,00kms), ignition coils inspection etc.
It can become a can or worms, as to when do you stop?


1 Pair 2 OF Holden Commodore VZ VE 3 6L Alloytec Rocker Cover Gasket Kits | eBay

 

[sshh]

Thanks for the replies, in terms of statutory warranty I'm pretty sure it doesn't apply in my case as the vehicle is more than ten years old and has over 160k on it. Even if it was for such minor things I probably wouldn't even bother considering getting it back to the dealer as its very far out of my way.

Is there a way to check the pcv valve operation? Will check the intake etc for oil like you have said diysv6 I plan on changing the plugs this weekend coming up so may clean plenum and throttle body etc while I have it off.

 

[diysv6]

Thanks for the replies, in terms of statutory warranty I'm pretty sure it doesn't apply in my case as the vehicle is more than ten years old and has over 160k on it. Even if it was for such minor things I probably wouldn't even bother considering getting it back to the dealer as its very far out of my way.

Is there a way to check the pcv valve operation? Will check the intake etc for oil like you have said diysv6 I plan on changing the plugs this weekend coming up so may clean plenum and throttle body etc while I have it off.

On the even bank engine cover at the rear is a 10mm pipe going into the cover. Air from the inlet tract is drawn into the cover by inlet manifold vacuum. Block the inlet to the engine cover with your thumb/finger - you should feel a sucking/vacuum pressure and if you hold it, it becomes quite substantial. Remove your thumb and a distinct intake of air will be heard as the vacuum present in the crankcase is filled with air.

Remove the PCV pipe on the rear of the odd bank engine cover - Using a pipe cleaner, carefully insert the pipe cleaner into the cavity. The hole is about 2mm diameter and a second plate with a 2mm hole is below it. See if you can get the pipe cleaner through both holes. Wriggle it about and see if it is just oil wet but not sludge covered. If it come out clean then all would be OK. If it comes out greasy then consider cleaning it. The sludge can be cleaned out using a pressure pack carby cleaner into the orifice to flush it clean. Replace the PCV pipe and run the engine to remove any solvent residue in the engine cover area. The PCV action will remove the solvent etc and burn it in the motor. Some contributors use WD40 as a cleaner. I leave the choice to you.

The modern engine has done away with the spring loaded wobble valve in the PCV housing. The new generation engines control the evacuation of the crankcase through metering holes , not the toggle valve. Hence no valve as such to replace, just keep it clean.

 

[sshh]

On the even bank engine cover at the rear is a 10mm pipe going into the cover. Air from the inlet tract is drawn into the cover by inlet manifold vacuum. Block the inlet to the engine cover with your thumb/finger - you should feel a sucking/vacuum pressure and if you hold it, it becomes quite substantial. Remove your thumb and a distinct intake of air will be heard as the vacuum present in the crankcase is filled with air.

Remove the PCV pipe on the rear of the odd bank engine cover - Using a pipe cleaner, carefully insert the pipe cleaner into the cavity. The hole is about 2mm diameter and a second plate with a 2mm hole is below it. See if you can get the pipe cleaner through both holes. Wriggle it about and see if it is just oil wet but not sludge covered. If it come out clean then all would be OK. If it comes out greasy then consider cleaning it. The sludge can be cleaned out using a pressure pack carby cleaner into the orifice to flush it clean. Replace the PCV pipe and run the engine to remove any solvent residue in the engine cover area. The PCV action will remove the solvent etc and burn it in the motor. Some contributors use WD40 as a cleaner. I leave the choice to you.

The modern engine has done away with the spring loaded wobble valve in the PCV housing. The new generation engines control the evacuation of the crankcase through metering holes , not the toggle valve. Hence no valve as such to replace, just keep it clean.

Does the pipe work to the pcv just pull off? Had a quick look tonight but it has flexi plastic over it all so couldn't see properly. Had a bit of a wiggle and seems to be on pretty good, any tricks or just give it a yank?

Doing plugs this week end so will have a proper clean out of the pipe work, pcv and plenum then

 

[diysv6]

............................
Does the pipe work to the pcv just pull off? Had a quick look tonight but it has flexi plastic over it all so couldn't see properly. Had a bit of a wiggle and seems to be on pretty good, any tricks or just give it a yank?.................

If you feel around the PCV connector, you will feel a small plastic lug which rotates clockwise.
This rotation releases the connector's locking ring, and upward pulling on the connector will remove the vacuum line.